Replacing Stock Tweeters
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2021
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Replacing Stock Tweeters
Hey All,
I did a search but nothing came up. I purchased a set of component speakers and the door mids are easy to switch out but what about the Tweeters. I want to add the components tweeters to factory location. Is the A-Pillar as simple as removed the bolts at the handles and yanking it out from the clips? Also, i have bare sync 3 radio with no amp. Do the tweeter wires run to the doors? So i can use the crossover that came with the components there at the door.
I did a search but nothing came up. I purchased a set of component speakers and the door mids are easy to switch out but what about the Tweeters. I want to add the components tweeters to factory location. Is the A-Pillar as simple as removed the bolts at the handles and yanking it out from the clips? Also, i have bare sync 3 radio with no amp. Do the tweeter wires run to the doors? So i can use the crossover that came with the components there at the door.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 239
Likes: 43
As T Banning stated, removal is pretty straight forward. Unless you got some very efficient replacement speakers, the bare Sync 3 will be underpowered for most component sets. If your replacements have a true cross over, I'd install the crossover so you can splice into the door and run a clean line to your new tweeters from the cross over. If it's a capacitor (bass blocker) for the new tweets, you can just add those to your pillar connection at the tweeter and not splice anything. They probably aren't needed but It won't reduce your signal either.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 650
Likes: 245
As T Banning stated, removal is pretty straight forward. Unless you got some very efficient replacement speakers, the bare Sync 3 will be underpowered for most component sets. If your replacements have a true cross over, I'd install the crossover so you can splice into the door and run a clean line to your new tweeters from the cross over. If it's a capacitor (bass blocker) for the new tweets, you can just add those to your pillar connection at the tweeter and not splice anything. They probably aren't needed but It won't reduce your signal either.
I went with the kit that has the Kicker Key DSP AMP and Sub Out that ties in to factory speaker wiring and a sub RCA out for my MONO amp. It should have ok power. According to guy that makes these kits, I should be able to add the components crossover there on the door and supposedly the trucks tweeters are run off the speakers there on front door. Not sure how true that is. I guess I need to track down where the tweeter wires come from or if not like you said run my own wire from tweeters to components crossover.
I went with a set of Infinity Components.
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