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The oil pump cleaned up well and checked out on all tolerances surprisingly. I painted it so it ready to bolt in.
The oil pan clean out plate had some deformation. I was able to find a NOS pan from a supplier here close. I took it apart tonight. I can confirm that originally it had two gaskets, one under the bolt ring and one between the pan and cover plate.
What is the best way to clean the pan, machine shop hot dip? It has surface rust.
The best way to get all the rust is an acid dip. Unfortunately if the 6's pan is like the V8's, with the dipstick fitting on the side of the pan, that fitting has to be removed (it's aluminum). A "regular" commercial caustic cleaning will likely be good enough and shouldn't hurt the fitting.
Blasting of any kind runs a risk of media being partially embedded and coming loose later.
The best way to get all the rust is an acid dip. Unfortunately if the 6's pan is like the V8's, with the dipstick fitting on the side of the pan, that fitting has to be removed (it's aluminum). A "regular" commercial caustic cleaning will likely be good enough and shouldn't hurt the fitting.
Blasting of any kind runs a risk of media being partially embedded and coming loose later.
Thanks Ross, I have time on my side so I am taking it easy with the pan. I am moving paper towels around soaked in evaporust and it seems to be cleaning it well. It wasn’t as bad as it looked once I cleaned all the dust off. I think the outside will sand up nicely.
Tommy finished the engine this afternoon. Picked up bearings from egge. Should start assembly next week. Looking forward to putting all the pieces together! It’s so nice and reassuring when our 8BA 52 starts on the first hit, hoping this 226 does the same thing.
I am going to get Tommy’s opinion on the rope seals when I pick it up. I have NOS rope seals but also have the seals included in the best gasket kit. Not sure which one to use.
First part of assembly is the valve train. I had to press on the gear hub and luckily have the krwilson press to do it. I set the backlash at .004 and installed the lifters and cam.
Valves are in and set. Two coats of bill hirsch engine enamel brushed on. I have several pieces like the timing cover and valve covers I am going to have to spray with a gun, so the third and last coat I am going to spray to lay out a nice final finish.
It’s a late fifty F1 Abe with the 226. This engine came from Doug of Montana. I put it together a few years ago but didn’t really know what I was doing then. This time I do.
The current engine runs fine but it leaks at almost every place possible, has a cracked head, and has only been slightly rebuilt, new rings and crank bearings, but no machine work.
I needed a project and so far this 226 has been fun to build. It’s bored 30 over, with new cam/valves, crank mains 10 under, rods 20 under, new pistons/rods resized, new distributor/carb, etc. It should be a reliable strong engine when we finish it.
I don’t know why I was so afraid of spraying the bill hirsch paint with an hvlp gun, I thinned it a little with a slow drying thinner and it sprayed out better than the aerosol.
It’s a late fifty F1 Abe with the 226. This engine came from Doug of Montana. I put it together a few years ago but didn’t really know what I was doing then. This time I do.
The current engine runs fine but it leaks at almost every place possible, has a cracked head, and has only been slightly rebuilt, new rings and crank bearings, but no machine work.
I needed a project and so far this 226 has been fun to build. It’s bored 30 over, with new cam/valves, crank mains 10 under, rods 20 under, new pistons/rods resized, new distributor/carb, etc. It should be a reliable strong engine when we finish it.
I don’t know why I was so afraid of spraying the bill hirsch paint with an hvlp gun, I thinned it a little with a slow drying thinner and it sprayed out better than the aerosol.
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