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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Ignition issue

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Old Aug 30, 2021 | 02:09 PM
  #16  
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Johnnyab
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
classic signs of a broken ignition actuator. the part is around $15.
you will need to disassemble to the top of the steering column to replace it.
here are the instructions to replace it compliments of user Jas88:


Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
heya tjc, one more question for ya. I followed the step by step you provided, replaced the actuator, then went in reverse to reassemble. One issue is the key no longer comes out of the ignition, it stops just before the “lock” position, and won’t go any further, so no lock and no accessory position… any suggestions? Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2021 | 02:11 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by sandymane
If the ignition switch is the same as the key cylinder then the actuator is probably broken where it is unseen towards the firewall. Common break point.
thank you, it was.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2021 | 04:13 PM
  #18  
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tjc transport
i ain't rite
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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you do not have the rack and gear behind the key cylinder timed properly.
what i do is set the end tooth on the gear on the last tooth of the rack.
it is a royal pain to get them timed, sometimes it takes two or three tries.
 
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