I have found a bunch of threads on here that describe the issue I’m having, but I have a question I haven’t been able to find an answer to. I have a 1989 F150, the key doesn’t spring back to run from start, and doesn’t turn the engine over. If I jump the starter solenoid with the key in run position it starts. I replaced the ignition switch which did not fix the issue. When the switch is removed the actuator arm moves when I function the key. Would the arm still move if the actuator were bad? Thanks.

 

If the ignition switch is the same as the key cylinder then the actuator is probably broken where it is unseen towards the firewall. Common break point.

 

Please define what you mean when you say "ignition switch" Are you talking about the part you put the key in, and twist? Or the part that's further down on the column, that the wiring plugs into?

 

The switch is on the column that the wiring plugs in to.

 

If you replaced the actual switch on the column, it sounds to me like you need to pull the key cylinder, and see what's *gummy* in there. Because that's what it sounds like to me, a mechanical issue in the column.

 

I didn’t mention it above, but the key moves freely, meaning there is no resistance or stopping at the normal stations ie acc, run, drive. Thanks.

 

It's been a good long while since I've had to deal with replacing a switch or tumbler on one of these, but I think with the rod disconnected from the switch, that there is no mechanical "stops" in the tumbler and rod assembly itself. That's perfectly normal.

 

thanks, you’re correct, but it’s the same way with the old or new switch installed, it just moves freely. With the key turned all the way in the run position I can jump the starter solenoid and it starts… IDK.

 

Maybe the key cylinder is gummy as suggested under #5. I would take some WD40 or equivalent and spray down the key cylinder as best you can without removing it, spray in where the key goes and outside as best you can. Also spray the outside of the actuator. The tumbler may move easily but it may still be gummed up or the outside of the actuator may be gummed up.

Also about the part of having to jump the solenoid to start it, do you have the ignition switch adjusted as far as it will go toward the steering wheel?

 

When you turn the key from the off position to the start position do any lights on the dash come on?

 

classic signs of a broken ignition actuator. the part is around $15.
you will need to disassemble to the top of the steering column to replace it.
here are the instructions to replace it compliments of user Jas88:


Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

 

yes they do

 

ya, that’s kind of what I suspected was going on. What a pain in the ***. Anyway, I appreciate the step by step and the feedback. Thank you.

 

Dash lights come on........then follow the directions carefully. There is one other thing you can do to make it a lot easier. It would let the truck start in any gear. It is obviously not safe for someone that doesn't know it if they try to start it in gear. I'm not going to post it but it can be found on YouTube.

 

easy way to test if actuator or not.
unbolt switch from column, and work it with a small screwdriver where the rod goes. if the truck starts, and shuts off plus accessory positions, the actuator is bloke.