1985 f150 302 efi code 18
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1985 f150 302 efi code 18
Truck has a long start, surging idle, hesitation, and stalls sometimes, hesitation seems to go away after warming up but still stalls every now and then. I pulled a code 18 which says bad icm or grounded spout. I changed the icm but same thing. I noticed that the distributor won't turn by hand, you have to tap it with a hammer to spin it, not sure if that has to do with anything but would greatly appreciate some help!
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From: Virginia
For the code 18, check to make sure your spout connector is in place and plugged in.
For the code 14, that is a missing PIP signal to the computer. Your truck does not have a crankshaft sensor. The guy in the book goes through a long drawn out process to check the PIP wire and some grounds. If all those check out, then he says it has to be the ECM. Funny, you just changed the ECM. Now you have a code you did not have before. I would put the old ECM back in place and see if the code 14 goes away. If it does lesson learned; New or rebuilt parts are not necessarily good parts.
For the code 14, that is a missing PIP signal to the computer. Your truck does not have a crankshaft sensor. The guy in the book goes through a long drawn out process to check the PIP wire and some grounds. If all those check out, then he says it has to be the ECM. Funny, you just changed the ECM. Now you have a code you did not have before. I would put the old ECM back in place and see if the code 14 goes away. If it does lesson learned; New or rebuilt parts are not necessarily good parts.
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From: Virginia
You may have a leak in the fuel system somewhere. It could be a leaky injector, a leaky fuel regulator or a leaky check valve in the fuel pump. First thing to do is determine if that is the problem. Something you could try when starting cold is to turn the key on so the pump primes, and then turn the key off and then turn it on again till the pump primes again. Do this 3 or 4 times before cranking, and then crank it over and see if the start time is shorter. If it is, this may be a hint that it's not holding fuel pressure in the system. You then need to verify this is really the long cranking problem by getting a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure to see if it leaks down. Major problem with this on a early truck like yours; Some of the early fuel injected trucks did not have a fuel pressure test port. Before buying a fuel pressure tester look on the fuel rail on top of the engine and see if you have a test port, which will look like a tire valve.
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Also I noticed that when you first start up the truck the rpms dip down then raise back up to normal when cold.
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From: Tolland, CT
Do these trucks have an IAC (idle air control) ? I know that come become clogged with carbon on some cars.
After some searching I found they do,
https://www.google.com/search?q=9f71...hrome&ie=UTF-8
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/198...-302-wefi.html
After some searching I found they do,
https://www.google.com/search?q=9f71...hrome&ie=UTF-8
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/198...-302-wefi.html
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From: Virginia
There is no way to check for the leak I am talking about without putting a pressure gauge on it. With the system off and pressure on it, it should hold pressure for a long long time. If there is a leaky injector or two, they will let gas dribble into the engine when it's off and it will lose pressure quickly. If the fuel pressure regulator is leaking internally back down the return line, you will lose pressure. If the check valve in the pump is leaking, you will lose pressure. Low pressure when starting causes long crank times.
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