need help from forum with my truck!!
#1
need help from forum with my truck!!
Hi, I have a problem I can't get figured out with my 90 F150 351 EFI - I has been runnig ok till last week and died at a light, could not start. had it towed and when home started up ok - ran 15 mins and died idling. I had an IAC and tried that, no different. I pulled the code and got an 85 (purge canister solinoid failure) checked the solinoid and it was bad. replaced and starts ok, idles 15-20 mins and dies and won't start. Pulled code and get "no code". Tried it this morning and started up again - I am afraid to drive down the road any farther than I feel like pushing the truck. I need any help out there. Chilton/hayes books no help - Thanks for the time to read long post -
#2
#4
Sounds like fuel feed.
Technically - this should be in 90 F150 forun, but this one goes broad-spectrum, I had a friend with a Mustang Turbo that did pretty much EXACTLY what you describe.
We were convinced it was vac-line related before it was all said and done.
If your fuel pump pressure is right, it would only be the fuel metering system (EFI, Yes?)
Okay - now the question:
What forum is best suited to find this?
Fuel?
90 F150 exclusively?
Or "Other"...
EXPERTS? Circle the wagons... Is this more likely EFI, VACCUUM, Engine Control and FUEL Injection, or what?
Technically - this should be in 90 F150 forun, but this one goes broad-spectrum, I had a friend with a Mustang Turbo that did pretty much EXACTLY what you describe.
We were convinced it was vac-line related before it was all said and done.
If your fuel pump pressure is right, it would only be the fuel metering system (EFI, Yes?)
Okay - now the question:
What forum is best suited to find this?
Fuel?
90 F150 exclusively?
Or "Other"...
EXPERTS? Circle the wagons... Is this more likely EFI, VACCUUM, Engine Control and FUEL Injection, or what?
#5
It ain't electronic in origin - it would be either intermittent or instant if it was.
Check voltages on your electric fuel pump to make sure. At the very least - if you have an electric in-tank pump you should hear it running with the key in the run position.
EFI don't run without pressure. Could be a weak pump, or bad regulator.
Also check to see if your collision interrupt has been triggered. Its an inertial switch that cuts power to the fuel pump if you have a sudden sharp stop. Location should be in your manual.
~Wolf
Check voltages on your electric fuel pump to make sure. At the very least - if you have an electric in-tank pump you should hear it running with the key in the run position.
EFI don't run without pressure. Could be a weak pump, or bad regulator.
Also check to see if your collision interrupt has been triggered. Its an inertial switch that cuts power to the fuel pump if you have a sudden sharp stop. Location should be in your manual.
~Wolf
Last edited by Greywolf; 07-20-2005 at 03:13 PM.
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#8
#9
ok everybody - we have moved to the 90's forum. Now that we are past that excitement I still need some help with the truck.
I can start it after it sits for a few hours, it will run for 15-20 mins on either tank. Then just stop - it will turn over but no start. I had looked at similar posts and someone suggested that the fuel pressure regulator might cause something like this. I originally got an 85 error, replaced the purge solinoid and that cleared. It is still dies and now I get a "no fault" code. I have replaced the IAC and no change - I'm open to ideas - Thanks
I can start it after it sits for a few hours, it will run for 15-20 mins on either tank. Then just stop - it will turn over but no start. I had looked at similar posts and someone suggested that the fuel pressure regulator might cause something like this. I originally got an 85 error, replaced the purge solinoid and that cleared. It is still dies and now I get a "no fault" code. I have replaced the IAC and no change - I'm open to ideas - Thanks
#11
Originally Posted by blacksmithtech
ok everybody - we have moved to the 90's forum. Now that we are past that excitement I still need some help with the truck.
I can start it after it sits for a few hours, it will run for 15-20 mins on either tank. Then just stop - it will turn over but no start. I had looked at similar posts and someone suggested that the fuel pressure regulator might cause something like this. I originally got an 85 error, replaced the purge solinoid and that cleared. It is still dies and now I get a "no fault" code. I have replaced the IAC and no change - I'm open to ideas - Thanks
I can start it after it sits for a few hours, it will run for 15-20 mins on either tank. Then just stop - it will turn over but no start. I had looked at similar posts and someone suggested that the fuel pressure regulator might cause something like this. I originally got an 85 error, replaced the purge solinoid and that cleared. It is still dies and now I get a "no fault" code. I have replaced the IAC and no change - I'm open to ideas - Thanks
#12
#13
After the engine dies
1) check for spark
no spark - check tfi (esp if mounted on distributor)
2) check for fuel pressure ( about 32 psi running, about 38 primed but not running)
no/low fuel pressure - try new fuel filter & check pumps and wiring to them
We've also seen a few vapor locks this past month so
check where the lines near the exhaust and engine.
3) check for injector firing (You should be hearing them click with a mechanics stethoscope)
no click - check PIP
4) check for plugged exhaust - disconnect y-pipe and see if she'll stay running
Thats roughtly what I would check for and in the order I would do it.
Hope I helped,
Popa Tim
1) check for spark
no spark - check tfi (esp if mounted on distributor)
2) check for fuel pressure ( about 32 psi running, about 38 primed but not running)
no/low fuel pressure - try new fuel filter & check pumps and wiring to them
We've also seen a few vapor locks this past month so
check where the lines near the exhaust and engine.
3) check for injector firing (You should be hearing them click with a mechanics stethoscope)
no click - check PIP
4) check for plugged exhaust - disconnect y-pipe and see if she'll stay running
Thats roughtly what I would check for and in the order I would do it.
Hope I helped,
Popa Tim
#14
When the engine is warming up, the truck is running in "closed loop" mode wich means its bypassing the ECM a.k.a. PCM a.k.a. ECU(main computer basically). When the truck has reached running tempurature(usually about 175 to 185), it switches its controls over to the ECM. If the ECM is not working, the truck will barely run or not run at all because all the signals used to run the ignition will be way out of wack or gone completly.
I would first replace the ECM/Ignition Control relay located next to the engine compartment fuse box.
Another thing you may want to try is to disconect the SPOUT connector after it dies and see if the engine will run then.
I would first replace the ECM/Ignition Control relay located next to the engine compartment fuse box.
Another thing you may want to try is to disconect the SPOUT connector after it dies and see if the engine will run then.
#15