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This is for Spyder part number pro-yd-ff25099v2-lb-bk. Rig is 2002 XLT.
Negatives are you have to cut into factory fiberglass headlight frame and the blinker is loose in the housing. I added an O-ring and left factory gasket which put a tight seal on this matting surface. Without this step i would expect moisture would be an issue.
I like the look of the running lights. It could be brighter during the day but is bright enough at night. The fitment to body of the lights were surprising good. The low beams are projectors and have a solid cut off line which will keep from blinding other vehicles. (Side note if using LEDs projectors are required for low beam, reflectors low beam LEDs just blind everyone). The high beam uses a reflector housing which puts down the light. I would recommend these lights.
Running Lights Parking lights at night. Low Beam Cut Off High Beams (same place as low beam picture)
They are h1 bulbs for low beams and h1 for high beams. I can only comment on these particular headlights.
For some kind of reference the low beam cut off is 125ft in front of vehicle. The picture with the high beams fence straight ahead is 290ft in front of vehicle.
I chose the SPEC-D for my truck. I didn’t have to cut anything and they fit perfectly. Performance-wise I got similar results as you. Your running lights look more modern than my halos though.
Originally Posted by Tunafish389
This is for Spyder part number pro-yd-ff25099v2-lb-bk. Rig is 2002 XLT.
Negatives are you have to cut into factory fiberglass headlight frame and the blinker is loose in the housing. I added an O-ring and left factory gasket which put a tight seal on this matting surface. Without this step i would expect moisture would be an issue.
I like the look of the running lights. It could be brighter during the day but is bright enough at night. The fitment to body of the lights were surprising good. The low beams are projectors and have a solid cut off line which will keep from blinding other vehicles. (Side note if using LEDs projectors are required for low beam, reflectors low beam LEDs just blind everyone). The high beam uses a reflector housing which puts down the light. I would recommend these lights.
Running Lights Parking lights at night. Low Beam Cut Off High Beams (same place as low beam picture)
I do like the halo and considered them also. They do look nice and not having to cut into the fiberglass is a big plus. My car has halo though and i wanted to distinguish the truck from the car. It is nice to see other options out there...
I like the look of these headlights. Was it difficult to wire the DRL bar?
Originally Posted by Tunafish389
This is for Spyder part number pro-yd-ff25099v2-lb-bk. Rig is 2002 XLT.
Negatives are you have to cut into factory fiberglass headlight frame and the blinker is loose in the housing. I added an O-ring and left factory gasket which put a tight seal on this matting surface. Without this step i would expect moisture would be an issue.
I like the look of the running lights. It could be brighter during the day but is bright enough at night. The fitment to body of the lights were surprising good. The low beams are projectors and have a solid cut off line which will keep from blinding other vehicles. (Side note if using LEDs projectors are required for low beam, reflectors low beam LEDs just blind everyone). The high beam uses a reflector housing which puts down the light. I would recommend these lights.
Running Lights Parking lights at night. Low Beam Cut Off High Beams (same place as low beam picture)
The DRL bar just needs a positive power, i used a ignition on power so they are on if the key is turned. It wasnt hard just running wire from cab though fire wall (theres a black plastic plate close to top on driver side thats easy to route though). I just piggie backed a fuse for power. Then ground is right there off of sheet metal screw where the lights are.
I believe they are designed so you could tap into the parking lights little bulb since that plug is not used. If you use this then just cut if plug and wire in wires right there. No need to run wires. But this will only have the bar lights on with parking lights or headlights which i wanted on all the time thats why i went from the cab.
The DRL bar just needs a positive power, i used a ignition on power so they are on if the key is turned. It wasnt hard just running wire from cab though fire wall (theres a black plastic plate close to top on driver side thats easy to route though). I just piggie backed a fuse for power. Then ground is right there off of sheet metal screw where the lights are.
I believe they are designed so you could tap into the parking lights little bulb since that plug is not used. If you use this then just cut if plug and wire in wires right there. No need to run wires. But this will only have the bar lights on with parking lights or headlights which i wanted on all the time thats why i went from the cab.
Thank you that definitely helps me out. I’m a rookie when it comes to wiring/electrical work.
I do not. It was a last minute thing but double of the oem should work (or just a new oem might have a enough meat). The orings i used where left over from a mercruiser drive gasket kit. Guessing about 1.25" but thats eye balling.. Nothing special about it, should be able to get one from hardware store. Sorry i cant help more.
Could you possible take a picture of the assembly installed with the hood up? So I can get an idea of what you actually had to cut to make them fit. They look great and I'm about to order the same set, just not sure of how much cutting etc.
You really can't see very well but the first pic shows the cut kinda. The low beam rear hits the fiber glass mounting on the outside. Where one of the factory adjustment screw is. So that petty much need cut out.
The second pic is a wide view of the fiberglass housing and behind that is the metal frame which doesn't need cut. The metal frame is preventing getting a good picture of the surgery..
Year plus and still love the lights, no complaints! The black is the headlight, the white is the fiberglass. Under the mounting screw you can see the cut. Black headlight, first white piece fiberglass, behind that metal frame.
For my Raptor Grille on my Excursion i also used a ignition triggered circuit to turn on the grille's amber running lights, but i added a switch on the dash to it, so i can de-activate them if i want to be stealthy, i leave the switch on 99% of the time so they turn on anytime the truck is on, but on occasion to sneak up on people when camping out and such, i have flipped them off. I remember back in the day many many years ago rigging up a similar switch to disable my brake and marker lights back in my street racing days to make it harder to follow me in the dark with a flip of a switch, and still be able to leave the headlights on, lol....
Could you possible take a picture of the assembly installed with the hood up? So I can get an idea of what you actually had to cut to make them fit. They look great and I'm about to order the same set, just not sure of how much cutting etc.
This is not my video, but I am guessing that these are the modifications you will need to perform:
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
