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I was considering the lower mounts being loose if the block was reman'd at some point. You've covered so much dong this over and over; I'm just trying to think of an outlier.
Like head bolts, would you get more clearance on the pass side if the driver side motor mount was removed and the motor rotated to that side?
How many times have the passenger side standpipes failed, and how many times have the drivers side failed?
You had 3 sets of "cheapos" installed and failed - where did you get them?
So far, what I read anyway, is that the most recent failure is on the Dieselsite standpipe (from Thoroughbred) on the passenger side, and it sounds like it is possible that it might have been damaged on installation. I can't imagine that you would have a mechanical issue on both sides.
I would only install high quality parts when doing this type of work. I never had any problems with these in the picture. Mount them with a very thin layer of silicone grease on the o-rings. You should feel the ring "snap" into place. The lower part of the standpipe is pretty sharp on the top. To press in I have made myself for this work a tool made of plastic.
Thanks Joe. Previously I had been separating the stand pipes and oiling the heck out of them with engine oil and once with silicone lube, and they still failed. So, the last set I was thinking that maybe I damaged them by separating them so I didn't separate them (the DieselSite ones) and one of them still failed.
I'm scratching my head on this one too.
When I put the Ford ones in this week I will use assembly lube.
Dang that is weird. I looked around a bit and you're right about the cheap copies out there. The set you bought appear to be built to specs needed.
I almost starting to think you have a burr in the head casting or oil rail that "knicks" the o-ring on the way in.
I would be at a loss as well. I think the only way to see what the hell might be in there would be with a camera scope.......and even then that is a long shot.
Damn bud good luck with this one. I HATE problems like this that keep me up at night.
I would only install high quality parts when doing this type of work. I never had any problems with these in the picture. Mount them with a very thin layer of silicone grease on the o-rings. You should feel the ring "snap" into place. The lower part of the standpipe is pretty sharp on the top. To press in I have made myself for this work a tool made of plastic.
I agree with the Silicone based lubricant. The Sil-Glyde is compatible with the o-ring materials, and have a good temperature rating, and is why I posted it (but I like the Parker Super o-Lube better).. But to have issues even doing that is crazy - especially when/if both sides are failing somewhat "randomly".
I would only install high quality parts when doing this type of work. I never had any problems with these in the picture. Mount them with a very thin layer of silicone grease on the o-rings. You should feel the ring "snap" into place. The lower part of the standpipe is pretty sharp on the top. To press in I have made myself for this work a tool made of plastic.
Could you post a pic of the plastic tool that you made?
Could you post a pic of the plastic tool that you made?
sure!
removal tool:
install tool :
don´t hammer it in! I use a little amount of silicone grease on the D-rings and press the standpipe in with light circular movements until it "snaps" into place. I have never had an issue
Over on the Org we talked about heating the o-rings a bit before installing them (along with your post about letting the D-ring "relax" before installing). Going forward, I think I would also heat up the entire part to 150*F before installing.
Also as we discussed, I like the Sil-Glyde (a silicon based lubricant) instead of just engine oil.
Unless the standpipe is going to be thrown away, I don't care for the thought of using pliers to remove the bottom section of the standpipe when it separates upon removal (possibility of a burr in metal).
That's exactly how I see it Mark. Never use pliers when a standpipe is to be reused.
But for my RV is rather to take only the D-rings for space and weight reasons.
The D-rings are, as mentioned, quite stiff. Maybe the first mistake is already to cold mount the rings on standpipe and dummy plug.
As soon as I find time I will make an attempt to install the D-rings cold and heated to 200°F in an oil bath on the standpipe / dummy plug.
So I went to the Ford dealership today and bought 2 new standpipes from them and I must say they looked to be of better quality and looked as if the upper and lower would seal better based on the bevels compared to the aftermarket I bought last week. I'll post picture of part number below. I installed them with some silicone grease as well and did the blue wire mod as I will be climbing the Rocky mountains tomorrow and then going 1400 miles to TN I will let you all know how it does.
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