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Looking at the numbers your payload is a bit lower than I was going to guess but I had to look again, you got the Lariat which has some more goodies. I bought an XLT. My payload is 3061 lbs.
Your hitch weight of the intended Fiver at 1404 lbs realistically probably would not be over 1700 dry in all reality. They have to weigh and rate those very much dead on for liability. So take the hitch weight that subtracts from your payload and add in the actual weight of the fifth wheel hitch you will add then whatever else would go in the truck for the destination then subtract from that payload rating. The axle should be fine…..like many, you can always put nicer shocks and springs as well as airbags on the truck to assist.
If you don’t go crazy packing things in, you should be able to tow that Fiver within the limits. I currently have a TT but looking at a slightly bigger and heavier Fiver than you are looking to buy. When my family goes RV’ing, we take two vehicles so the truck is not really weighed down due to this. But we don’t travel heavy with loads of heavy stuff. The heaviest things are literally three mountain bikes that combined may be 120 lbs at best.
Rather than hijack another current thread on this topic, I'd thought I'd ask a new towing question specific to my 2022 F-250 that was just delivered. We bought the truck to pull a yet to be purchased fifth wheel, although we did do a fair amount of research on fivers before we ordered the truck. We're looking at small "couples" coaches, primarily in the so-called "half-ton towable" class. Our favorite so far is a Rockwood Ultra-Lite, 2621WS.
Admittedly I was paying more attention to the trucks pulling specs than payload, but I think I'm still okay. What I'm looking for is comments on payload capacity, because the numbers are a bit confusing to me. Cargo capacity is obvious, but I don't know how to use the axle weight ratings. Thanks in advance for your help!
RV Specs: unloaded weight = 8,289#, cargo capacity = 1,615#, hitch weight = 1,404#. I realize that hitch weight might be based on an empty trailer, and 2,000# might be more realistic.
Truck Specs: 2022 F-250 Lariat, CCSB, 4x4, 7.3L, 4.30 Axle, 20" Rims, LT275/65R20E 126/123R Tires. It's not a Tremor, but I did add the 10,000# GVWR sticker in case registration over 10,000# becomes an issue.
I've been doing this for a long long time with numerous trucks and trailers and what I'm looking at first is your trucks trailer rating and that is 17500 5th wheel towing so your not even close there. Next is is your tire weight rating, your tires have a 126/123R rating with the 126 being the single rating and the 123 the dual rating, you will have a 3748 lbs max per tire or 7496 total for your rear tires and I'm sure with that small of a trailer you won't be close there either. They aren't using a bunch of different axles on these trucks for different weight ratings it's just a lot of numbers to satisfy government, insurance ratings and in some states registration rates. There isn't a lot of difference between the brakes and rear ends between the F250 and F350 until you get to the DRW.
If after you get your truck and it sags to much put a set of bags on it to level it.
I've been doing this for a long long time with numerous trucks and trailers and what I'm looking at first is your trucks trailer rating and that is 17500 5th wheel towing so your not even close there. Next is is your tire weight rating, your tires have a 126/123R rating with the 126 being the single rating and the 123 the dual rating, you will have a 3748 lbs max per tire or 7496 total for your rear tires and I'm sure with that small of a trailer you won't be close there either. They aren't using a bunch of different axles on these trucks for different weight ratings it's just a lot of numbers to satisfy government, insurance ratings and in some states registration rates. There isn't a lot of difference between the brakes and rear ends between the F250 and F350 until you get to the DRW.
If after you get your truck and it sags to much put a set of bags on it to level it.
Denny
Thanks Denny, I was thinking the same thing about a set of airbags if she squats too much. I'm feeling pretty good about it, appreciate all the input!
Check on an Anderson fifth wheel hitch, the aluminum one.
That's what I use, it will save you a lot of weight.
Yes, but I don't think I can use an Anderson in my 6'-9" bed. Since that fiver comes with a turning point pin box I'm planning to use that locked up to a standard (non-sliding) hitch. I've got the puck system and I think a B&W Companion for that weighs about 150# in two 75# halves.
Thanks Denny, I was thinking the same thing about a set of airbags if she squats too much. I'm feeling pretty good about it, appreciate all the input!
The reason you may need air bags is because when people started migrating from cars to PU trucks they started complaining about the ride so the manufactures started softening up the ride and now the first few inches of travel will not take a load until they hit the overloads. I even run bags on my F350 DRW to level it out when I drop out trailers 3400 lb pin weight on it along with a 50 gal aux tank. They take some the weight off the overloads and make it ride better, if you ever had a DRW F350 you would know that when it gets down on the overloads it goes no further and the ride is very firm. Another thing about rear end sag is weight will transfer from the front axle to the rear when you get past level.
The reason you may need air bags is because when people started migrating from cars to PU trucks they started complaining about the ride so the manufactures started softening up the ride and now the first few inches of travel will not take a load until they hit the overloads. I even run bags on my F350 DRW to level it out when I drop out trailers 3400 lb pin weight on it along with a 50 gal aux tank. They take some the weight off the overloads and make it ride better, if you ever had a DRW F350 you would know that when it gets down on the overloads it goes no further and the ride is very firm. Another thing about rear end sag is weight will transfer from the front axle to the rear when you get past level.
Denny
Oh, that makes a ton of sense. Spring designs are actually pretty interesting when you dig into it. That also brings up another point I'd like to get opinions on. I'm a Milwaukee M18 tool guy, and they have a nice, portable compressor for about $350 I've been considering instead of putting one on the truck:
I was talking to a guy at my Ford dealer and he said portables are fine for inflating bags as long as you don't try to lift any load with them. Any thoughts on that?
I am always amused at how concerned folks are about staying just under their payload limit. The idea of moving gear around or filling an aft fresh water tank to minimally reduce pin weight, while potentially creating other negative conditions strikes me as ridiculous. I understand if it gives you peace of mind to stay under the stated payload capacity, but the truck could care less if you are 100 pounds under of 200 pounds over. There is nothing magical about that payload number on the sticker. It's not like at 100 pounds under everything is perfect and at 200 pounds over the wheels fall off and the truck bursts into flames. Stay under the tire, wheel and axle ratings and you will be in great shape with the trailer you are looking at. Keep in mind that even if you had purchased a F250 with a higher GVWR, the rear axle rating would be exactly the same...every F250 has a rear GAWR of 6340 pound regardless of GVWR, payload, or specific equipment. In 2020, when Ford arbitrarily raised the GVWR on many F250 configurations (in response to GM's increased 2500 GVWR), the RGAWR remained the same across the board. Enjoy your new truck and good luck on the trailer hunt.
Oh, that makes a ton of sense. Spring designs are actually pretty interesting when you dig into it. That also brings up another point I'd like to get opinions on. I'm a Milwaukee M18 tool guy, and they have a nice, portable compressor for about $350 I've been considering instead of putting one on the truck:
I was talking to a guy at my Ford dealer and he said portables are fine for inflating bags as long as you don't try to lift any load with them. Any thoughts on that?
Thank you!
A few years ago would have said that compressor would never work but now with the new battery technology it's a whole new ballgame. My 1/2 battery impact wrench made a beleaver out of me so yes I'm sure it will work. I think your mechanic is thinking about the 12V portable compressors that are not always that great. I have a on board compressor for my bags and it works fine but for inflating a tire it would take forever.
?..That also brings up another point I'd like to get opinions on. I'm a Milwaukee M18 tool guy, and they have a nice, portable compressor for about $350 I've been considering instead of putting one on the truck:
I was talking to a guy at my Ford dealer and he said portables are fine for inflating bags as long as you don't try to lift any load with them. Any thoughts on that?
Thank you!
I have Firestone air springs on our truck, we carry a medium size truck camper on our truck, and I carry a Viair 300P portable compressor in our truck. Air springs don’t have much volume, so the Viair makes quick work of inflating them to whatever pressure I choose up 100 psi (40 is typical). I also use the Viair to top off our truck’s tires (up to 80 psi cold) when needed, typically when a new day is colder than the day before.
I carry a small portable Viair compressor in the truck but have the Airlift bags and wireless compressor. I can adjust the pressure from the remote or the app on my phone. I love the convenience of the system. I put 60 psi in the bags to tow. As soon as I unhitch, drop it down to 5psi. Each adjustment takes about 10 seconds and I can do it from the cab or standing next to my truck without having to dig into my tool box or under the back seat.
I am literally in the same issue as you! I ordered my new F-250 last month and its set to start production next month. I was doing some more research on the RV I want to pull and found out that while the RV fits within the towing capacity of the truck, it does NOT fit the payload. The RV I want to pull, if loaded to max (I will be full timing while doing travel nursing) would eat my entire payload without considering passengers or auxiliary fuel. So I just called the dealership and I've changed my order to a F-350 SRW with the 8' bed and 176" wheelbase as that gives me the max possible payload without doing DRW. With all those options my payload should be around 3400-3800# I think (fords little trailer towing guide is very confusing about options).
I am literally in the same issue as you! I ordered my new F-250 last month and its set to start production next month. I was doing some more research on the RV I want to pull and found out that while the RV fits within the towing capacity of the truck, it does NOT fit the payload. The RV I want to pull, if loaded to max (I will be full timing while doing travel nursing) would eat my entire payload without considering passengers or auxiliary fuel. So I just called the dealership and I've changed my order to a F-350 SRW with the 8' bed and 176" wheelbase as that gives me the max possible payload without doing DRW. With all those options my payload should be around 3400-3800# I think (fords little trailer towing guide is very confusing about options).
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