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Even though you said it was out of your budget, I went with the 3.5" carli pintop and love it! The new radius arms finally arrived (6 months after the initial lift install due to a new design/backorder) and I had those also installed along with their upper and lower stabilizers and upgraded end links. The truck rides so well right now it is ridiculous. Then I put airbags on the back for towing and it really brought it all together. Took it through some mild off-roading this weekend while camping and it felt so nice and performed so well (would have been better if I dropped the PSI in my tires but just left them as is due to the trailer).
I bet that’s an amazing set up! You said airbags in the back... did you just use blocks to level it or did you do the replacement leaf packs?
I bet that’s an amazing set up! You said airbags in the back... did you just use blocks to level it or did you do the replacement leaf packs?
Not counting the air bags it was around $12k installed with wheels and tires, not cheap. These pics are prior to the radius arms, and stabilizers, but that wouldn't have changed the height/look, obviously.
Not counting the air bags it was around $12k installed with wheels and tires, not cheap. These pics are prior to the radius arms, and stabilizers, but that wouldn't have changed the height/look, obviously.
Beautiful rig man! That is pricey, but worth every penny i’m sure.
I swapped mine out to Bilstein 4600’s front and back with the steering stabilizer. I wanted to keep it stock height. To me it drives a lot better. it absorbs the bumps instead of bouncing around over them. It is a bit firmer but I think all of them are.
for why? I have a few corners with overpasses on my daily drive. I drive a little faster than most and hitting those expansion joints mid corner the truck would just bounce around, not any more. Some gravel roads as well and it handles the washboard sections a lot better. We tow a 33’ fifth wheel as well and they handle it great.
I would recommend them for sure!
I intended to go with the BDS 4" lift but it ended up being a 16-18 week wait. My installed got lucky found a supplier with a Carli Backcountry in stock but I couldn't get the radius arms from Carli for about 8 months, so I went with a PMF 4-link system instead of the radius arms. Rides like a dream and my installed said the 4-link has way more adjustability.
I had a BDS on my F150 and I loved how solid it felt. When I bought my F250, I knew I was going back with BDS. I have the 8" BDS 4-link kit, 2.5" Fox coilovers with reservoir and Fox shocks in the rear. I also went with the Fox dual steering stabalizer, adjustable trackbar, PMF draglink, and PMF tie rod bar with XRF end links. I have 40" Fury Country Hunter MTII. This setup has an extremely smooth ride for such a big truck. It rides better than stock. I highly recommend upgrading the shocks to Fox or King. One of the things I love about this kit is there are grease zerks everywhere and all of the bushings and ends are serviceable.
I left my Super Duty stock height, but swapped for Bilstein 5100 shocks. I have some other lifted trucks (89 and 94 F350s) so I don't need another one. I don't want to compromise this trucks ability to tow, or have to fight weird handling characteristics with a trailer on that are self induced. The most I will do is put on a bigger tire, but that'll be it. I've seen too many threads here on guys asking how to "fix" their trucks after they've installed leveling kits or some cheaper lift kit and put a trailer on for the first time and are surprised when the rear squats excessively, or the truck is all over the road.
The only other thing I might do is add some Air Lift 5000 bags in the back to keep the squat at a minimum with a trailer on the back.
I wound up with readylift 3.5 front and 5" back. they approve using a spring spacer to make the front 3.5 a front 5". so im at 5" in front and 5" back.
the lift was needed for 37" on 22.5's. with a 2.5 lift I had almost no rubbing. the only rub I had was the sway bar , but I repaced that with a helwig 7712 and no more sway rubbing. with the 2,5 kit I had rub during hard dips and turns during dips...so..I decided go higher.
I was going to go 4" in the back and 3.5 I the front.....but...after gathering up the different kit option...I did nt like the casting of the 4" flat, 4"tapered blocks and decidd to go with the 5" flat block and use carrier bearing spacer.
I installed the kit myself. not impossible...but I have 4 hydraulic jack stands, 2 standard bottle jacks, 1 extended bottle jack, 2 floor lift jacks and a kazion pounds of tools. I would not recommend this as a DIY if not experienced.
so the 5" frot and back came out a little hier than what I was after...maybe later down the road if I find a solid 4" block Ill change the 5" and 5" tp a 4" in the back and 3.5 in th front.
so pros an cons and gotchas and watch out for
readylift build quality for complete kits (blocks, ubolts, sway spacers, track bar relocation, brake hose brackets, spring spacers, etc) .
a. you should b good with a 250, bt for my truck the ubolts provided where too hortand not the correct thickness. I orded a set from PMF.
b. the holes for the alignment stud was too small ...I had to ream it out some.
c. the sway bar lowering brackets worked fin..but..I had too close for comfort clearance on a neary cros bar...so I added a hard shock spacer to get more clearance.
d. they did not provide a way adjustment solution or the rear....so Im looking for a solution to that.
e. they did not provide a pitman arm drop....I had a little over a half of a steerig wheel change due o th lift and I didn't want to lengthen the associatd tube to compensate ...didn't want to loose threads ..so I ordered the pitman arm bracket for my lit.....had to order a special socket and arm puller..when it all gets hee we'll see if it can be removed as a DIY.
f. between the pinion arm relocation bracket and the block spacer guide stud and holes...one side of my wheel base is 1MM shorter than the other side....I don think that is the end of the world...its an easy fix by looseing the bolt for the pinin arm drop and leaf spring spacers and using cargo straps to adjust....then tighten.
g. the readylift kits dropped 200 bucks on amazon over the last 30 days.
h. the carrier bearing spacer readylift provide is only 1/2 inch. and after watching a few drive shaft angle videos, Ordered a 2" tapered carrier bearing spacer.
The ready lift kit as inexpensive. I already had front dual stabilizers and plan on buying fox 2.5 shocks.
also going to order a transfer case reclocking kit. it basically turns the transfer case so that the front drive shaft output is lowered and putting it into better alignment with the front axle input yoke.
Yes, I got the 4.30 gears. Mostly because I had plans to put 37s on it. I don’t tow real heavy. My pontoon is probably 6k all loaded up. Maybe a 5th wheel in the future.
I intended to go with the BDS 4" lift but it ended up being a 16-18 week wait. My installed got lucky found a supplier with a Carli Backcountry in stock but I couldn't get the radius arms from Carli for about 8 months, so I went with a PMF 4-link system instead of the radius arms. Rides like a dream and my installed said the 4-link has way more adjustability.
Thats a great set up! I have a full carli 3.5" kit on my 2020 and I agree that PMF 4 link would be a better for sure than the Carli radius arms. Just for getting castor dialed in alone.
Do you happen to have pics where the 4 link attaches to the front axle?
I intended to go with the BDS 4" lift but it ended up being a 16-18 week wait. My installed got lucky found a supplier with a Carli Backcountry in stock but I couldn't get the radius arms from Carli for about 8 months, so I went with a PMF 4-link system instead of the radius arms. Rides like a dream and my installed said the 4-link has way more adjustability.
What did you do in the back? Blocks or all new leafs?
Readylift 2.5" SST kit. Front spacers, rear block swap. Bilstein 5100's. 37's on 20's with a +10 offset. Rides much better than stock with the Bilsteins and the bigger tires.
the lift was needed for 37" on 22.5's. with a 2.5 lift I had almost no rubbing. the only rub I had was the sway bar , but I repaced that with a helwig 7712 and no more sway rubbing. with the 2,5 kit I had rub during hard dips and turns during dips...so..I decided go higher.
So where else was it rubbing that required another 2.5" of lift?
Thats a great set up! I have a full carli 3.5" kit on my 2020 and I agree that PMF 4 link would be a better for sure than the Carli radius arms. Just for getting castor dialed in alone.
Do you happen to have pics where the 4 link attaches to the front axle?
I don't right now, but when I get home from my business trip next week i'll take a few pics.
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