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I think Delphi makes a lot of OEM GM parts and I have bought several Delphi parts for my sons Buick and they seem to be holding up..
BTW I gave Ridetrains a copy of his calibration list.. If you will post your calibration code on the drivers door sticker, I can look yours up and give you a copy. The calibration code list is a list of all of the original part numbers for all of the ECM, sensors, injectors, and emission related parts..
FWIW a quick Google search shows Delphi parts are essentially GM as that company was spun off GM back in 1999. In theory they should be high quality no matter which car brand they've made to fit.
1989 E250 5,8L
I have installed two of these new Delphi low pressure pumps on my two tanks for two years. No problem for the moment.
Just during installation, they must be centered because the upper circular part has a significantly smaller diameter, slightly set back from the housing provided above the tanks. My tanks are new, (reproductions made in Canada), they are not OEM. With the new upper circular flat gasket and a little bit special gas Loctite sealant, everything has been working properly for 4000 miles without leaks.
I know this has been a while since I reported back on this. Last weekend I finally was able to get a wire brush on the gas tank and clean up the area where the pump mounts, In retrospect I probably should have just ordered a new rear tank, but the old on is solid. I mounted the new pump and re-installed the rear tank, hopefully the rear lines will not leak.
This weekend I'll be dropping the selector valve and see if I can get that hooked in. Not sure what it's going to take yet as the PO did a bypass of some sort and was only running off the front tank, which may need a new pump in it also if it's the same age as the rear pump, the float was laying in the bottom of the tank on the rear.
Then I have to see if the selector switch is working or even hoked up. Also the fuel gauge has never moved off of empty with the front tank so there may be other problems. Slowly but surely moving forward.
I know this has been a while since I reported back on this. Last weekend I finally was able to get a wire brush on the gas tank and clean up the area where the pump mounts, In retrospect I probably should have just ordered a new rear tank, but the old on is solid. I mounted the new pump and re-installed the rear tank, hopefully the rear lines will not leak.
This weekend I'll be dropping the selector valve and see if I can get that hooked in. Not sure what it's going to take yet as the PO did a bypass of some sort and was only running off the front tank, which may need a new pump in it also if it's the same age as the rear pump, the float was laying in the bottom of the tank on the rear.
Then I have to see if the selector switch is working or even hoked up. Also the fuel gauge has never moved off of empty with the front tank so there may be other problems. Slowly but surely moving forward.
I'm glad you revived this thread. Tons of valuable information here.
I have the same problem with my front tank always showing E. When I drove this beast home, I decided to switch between front/rear every so often. Then for some reason the rear tank was always showing full. That's odd, I thought.
When I filled up at the gas station, I put barely 1gal in the rear and about 12gal in the front. So, it seems I might have an electrical problem with the selector switch.
Electrical is my weakest skill. How would I verify the switch operation? I have dash half apart but the switch goes into a super thick plastic connector so I'm not sure how to connect my meter.
I'm glad you revived this thread. Tons of valuable information here.
I have the same problem with my front tank always showing E. When I drove this beast home, I decided to switch between front/rear every so often. Then for some reason the rear tank was always showing full. That's odd, I thought.
When I filled up at the gas station, I put barely 1gal in the rear and about 12gal in the front. So, it seems I might have an electrical problem with the selector switch.
Electrical is my weakest skill. How would I verify the switch operation? I have dash half apart but the switch goes into a super thick plastic connector so I'm not sure how to connect my meter.
Sorry I haven't gotten that far yet, but I'm under the impression that the gauge is powered from the sending units mounted to the low volume pumps in each tank. If I'm correct then the tank switch has nothing to do with the fuel level on the dash and it would be isolated to each individual pump. Like in my case , the float was completely off the float arm in the rear tank so it could not measure, but in your case, it could be just a bad ground wire usually at the tank connector. The other guys here are way more experienced and knowledgeable with these old vans, I'm just now dipping my toes into the waters here.
Thanks Mike1! You're a gentleman. That is definitely what is mounted under there. Not original to 1991 obviously.
I'm going to pull the instrument cluster apart this weekend. I already have it halfway there. Then I can trace those black wires and figure out what's what.
Thanks Mike1! You're a gentleman. That is definitely what is mounted under there. Not original to 1991 obviously.
I'm going to pull the instrument cluster apart this weekend. I already have it halfway there. Then I can trace those black wires and figure out what's what.
Mines a 90 has 23 gal tank in the rear and a 16 mishap, your switch valve probably looks like the six port up near tge top of this post that's supposed to be in there but if the current one works use it because the proper one is pretty expensive, normally will run about $600, I got an ebay special for $160, so who knows how long it'll last lol.
The diagrams at the top of the page is how the fuel system came from the factory. The 6 port valve on there now was used on some older non EFI systems. I looked in my 85 manual and since the original selector valve has been switched out, I have no clue what the PO did to the wiring. The factory selector valve for the 1991 did not require any power. Again refer to the diagrams at the top of the page.
Part numbers
F1UZ-9B263-B replaced F0UZ-9B263-A and F1UZ-9263-A.. E7TZ-9B263-A is listed for a F series truck but may also work because it too was replaced by F1UZ-9B263-B So if you are going repair your fuel system using the factory non electric selector valve, You can use all of the part numbers listed above. Sometimes you will find a difference in pricing when searching the older part numbers.
The numbers in the description column are engineering id numbers. E7TA-9B263-AB and F1UA-9B263-AA. Though they are not actual part numbers, sometimes you can find a seller that listed the engineering number rather then the part number. I have found a couple of parts very cheap when listed by the engineering number perhaps because they hadn't sold quickly.
The diagrams at the top of the page is how the fuel system came from the factory. The 6 port valve on there now was used on some older non EFI systems. I looked in my 85 manual and since the original selector valve has been switched out, I have no clue what the PO did to the wiring. The factory selector valve for the 1991 did not require any power. Again refer to the diagrams at the top of the page.
Part numbers
F1UZ-9B263-B replaced F0UZ-9B263-A and F1UZ-9263-A.. E7TZ-9B263-A is listed for a F series truck but may also work because it too was replaced by F1UZ-9B263-B So if you are going repair your fuel system using the factory non electric selector valve, You can use all of the part numbers listed above. Sometimes you will find a difference in pricing when searching the older part numbers.
The numbers in the description column are engineering id numbers. E7TA-9B263-AB and F1UA-9B263-AA. Though they are not actual part numbers, sometimes you can find a seller that listed the engineering number rather then the part number. I have found a couple of parts very cheap when listed by the engineering number perhaps because they hadn't sold quickly.
This is the one I bought for my 90, I'll be replacing it tomorrow. So I have question(s) The fuel pumps have the fuel level sender built into them. Each pump has one. The electrical signal obviously travels back to the gauge on the dash, but does that same signal tie into the fuel valve switch, then goes back to the fuel gauge on the dash? I don't want to put gas in the tanks then find out the fuel gauge isn't working and have to drop the tanks again if I can help it.
Item specifics
Condition:
New
Superseded Part Number:
911000
Country/Region of Manufacture:
China
Interchange Part Number:
911000
Type:
Ball Joint Press Adapter
Manufacturer Part Number:
F1UZ9B263B
Modified Item:
No
Custom Bundle:
No
Included Hardware:
Transfer Case
Other Part Number:
911-000
Fitment Type:
Direct Replacement
Non-Domestic Product:
No
Placement on Vehicle:
Front
Brand:
JDMSPEED
Manufacturer Warranty:
1 Year
UPC:
713101826072
Hi Mike! The one you ordered appears to be the cheapest at the moment. the Motorcraft ones range to well over $300.
I found one that is listed as $218 plus shipping, if the info is correct. https://www.rearcounter.com/F1UZ-9B2...rts364828.html
I'll get back later tonight and try to answer your questions about the wiring.
Eventually all the parts are going to have to be aftermarket ones. Don't throw the original one away. There are several sites about rebuilding them but I have no idea where one would get part. I believe a there are some O-rings that could be matched up.
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