oh and mike, have you ever heard of one of the problems i'm having? where both my gas gauges read empty when there's still a quarterish of a tank left? do you think it's a fuel sending unit problem or is it just 'is what it is' cuz it's old and each tank is only 10ish or so gallons. thanks again - barbie

 

I dont see my van enough to know, its in the shop getting the holes around the windshield welded up, new glass gets installed Monday. When out of the shop I had hoped to repair my wheelchair lift, but parts ordered went MIA, now I was offered bodywork and paint, so long as I agreed it be white, tho I could puke, it does get every hole filled and the roof line sealed finally, so I think I'll not see my van till next year. I got the miss in the engine solved, plug change revealed some idiot did not change all 6, it had 5 Autolite and 1 Champion, its running smooth, tho I need a new distributor, previous idiot broke off one side so 8 have a nut jamming one of the cap screws down, just take it a day at a time. After seeing all the Jerry rigging crap they broke, I don't want to touch the fuel filters yet, got my hands full as is, van is running fantastic at the moment.

 

If you have 2 10gal tanks in your van, I would say that might be why you're fuel gauge is off, I believe, like my 1990, you should have a 23gal in the rear and a 16gal in front,, also if the low volume intake pumps haven't been changed they could be rusted up causing the problem. Its one of the things where you probably need to drop both ranks, replace the pumps, lines and filter, check all wiring and connectors. Just go through the whole fuel system 100%.

 

Finally had a chance to drop my rear tank, it was full of fuel, 23 gallons, what a mess. Any suggestions on what brand fuel pump to buy?


0

 

I myself would prefer the OEM brand unless its simply not available---anything else will have suspect longevity IMHO. Others here running and maintaining those old E-Series may have long-term experience with different brands but my guess is they'll be short lived by comparison.

 

JWA is correct about the best pump to buy but the last time I checked on the price of a low pressure Ford pump for my van it was over $200.

Looking at RockAuto their page lists the rear tank sending unit fitment "UP TO 05/22/1990". I have a master parts catalog but it only goes up to 1989... So you need to check the manufacture date on your door decal...

Using the part number from RA, "E8UZ9H307FA" and doing a search on Rear Counter, They show 2 available. I do not know if that is just the pump or complete sending unit.. AGAIN that would also depend on the year and month of your van..
https://www.rearcounter.com/E8UZ-9H3...rts411553.html

One at Bob Allen Ford (913) 381-2999 and the other, rear counter does not list who it is but you can send an inquiry. It shows being a company in Olathe, Kansas. O believe that is NOS


Also if it was manufactured before 05/22/1990, Ebay shows one for $!40 but has make an offer listed... Also this part number came from RA but is different from the other. Ford often updated the parts maybe by making a slight change in design and assigns a new part number..

Also on your old tank,,, there is an O-ring laying on the lip of the tank along with another part still on one of the sending unit connectors .. Don't loose those pieces or you will have to find a new line connector.
I don't know if Ford would list new O-rings or not. The heater hose to heater core connectors are quick connect connectors and they have 2 O-rings inside them.
When I changed my hear core I needed new O-rings. I didn't want to change the hoses out so I bought replacement connectors and used the O-rings out of them.
https://www.ebay.com/p/1724617857

Let us know what the date is on your van...

Oh and if I had to go aftermarket,,, I would probably choose the Delphi but these days there is no telling who or where the parts are made.. One company in China may make them for everyone now days..
When I bought my 88, it had a new tank and pump. It quit within a few weeks and I replaced it but I forgot what brand it is but it came from the local parts store.

 

annaleigh, when I pulled the tank connectors a red oring fell out of one and a short black plastic piece stayed on one of the nipples, are those the 2 pieces you're talking about? As for the flat rubber gasket that goes under the pump flange for the locking ring. Doesn't tge pump usually come with a new gasket and locking ring? My locking ring was rusted bad falling apart and the gasket really isn't any good either. As for the date on the door I'll have to look at it.

 

Yes Mike, those are the 2 pieces I am talking about.. Yes the new ring and rubber seal is supposed to come with a new sending unit.
What does the tank look like inside? Also according to RA, the sending unit they have listed only goes up to 05/22/1990 so something changed after that date. It is the same sending unit used on my 88 and the tank itself is the same on my 88 but that same tank was used all the way up through 1991.

Also the Ebay pump I linked you do doesn't appear to have a filter sock with it. That is sold as a single part at RA and some auto parts stores.. If you contact the Ebay seller then perhaps if you make a lower offer then you could mention the strainer sock...
It has been a few years since I replaced my pump so I don't remember exactly which connectors were used on the sending unit but below is a page from my manual showing different connectors used. Perhaps the black piece still on the tube is a spacer like the one I marked red in the pic.

 

So what do you suppose happened to the float ball on the end of the arm? It's not in the tank.

 

[/Quote]
Using the part number from RA, "E8UZ9H307FA"
https://www.rearcounter.com/E8UZ-9H3...rts411553.html

https://www.ebay.com/p/1724617857

Let us know what the date is on your van...
.[/QUOTE]

Manufacturer Date is 9/89

 

Well the brass floats are deteriorate on their own, normally just pin holes. You can buy just the float if you need to. You can also buy just the pump if the sending unit cleans up and works. It looks like the tank has had a lot of condensation in it like my 85 was.. Our gas with Ethanol will draw in moisture and then separate into layers the tank. Ethanol is also corrosive to soft metals like brass so my guess is that ethanol in the newer gas played a part also..

This article is talking about E85 but I would think that even thin brass like an old float could be damaged by E10 given time..
Exert: As mentioned above, ethanol is not compatible with soft metals such as zinc, brass, copper, lead, and aluminum. These metals will degrade or corrode in contact with ethanol and possibly contaminate a vehicle’s fuel system.
https://www.in.gov/idem/tanks/files/...patibility.pdf
So your van was built at the end of 89 but sold as a 1990. The sending units I linked you to will work according to RA.

 

Annaleigh thank you for the links, I will start doing some hunting.

 

I have another question for you guys with 2 tanks. When you hit the switch from front to rear or vice-versa, how long should it take for the fuel in the reservoir take to get used up before it starts to sputter??
As you know I have the rear tank removed and when I was checking the mfg date on the door, I started the van, I decided to flip the tank switch to the rear, and it kept idling for a minute, then I went ahead and raised the rpm's and I just about floored the gas pedal, it never did die after about 3 minutes of running I finally shut it off, Now I'm starting to think maybe the PO had the switch disconnected also when they did the tank bypass.

Annaleigh, I have seen in some of your previous posts you changed your mid-tank and pump assembly, using a Delphi assembly, how did that work out for you? Are you still running that same pump? I'm asking because Delphi seems to be only one of a few that actually sell the tank locking ring with their pump all the others are just suppling the gaskets.
Thanks again for all the great input you guys are giving me..

 

I only have one tank behind the rear axle... I did replace the new in tank pump shortly after I bought the van with another aftermarket pump but cant remember what brand it was.. You must be thinking of someone else.... Rock Auto sells the locking ring and rubber gasket separately.. Just measure your tank and make sure you order the correct size ring.. A parts store might have one...

If all of your tanks are working correctly and connected, there is no hesitation when swapping tanks. But in your case where you have the rear tank disconnected, There could be several possibilities.
1st: as you state the PO has rewired the system so that only the midship tank works..

2nd: Becomes a bit more complicated.. When you turn the fuel tank selector switch from one tank to another, lets say from front to rear... The only thing the switch does is swap the electrical connections from the front in tank pump and sending unit to the rear in tank and sending unit. Regardless of which tank you select the high pressure pump is always on.
The fuel selector valve with reservoir is operated solely mechanically and not electrically. When you move the selector switch to the front tank, The front in tank pump starts working. The fuel pressure from the front in tank pump opens a valve in the mechanical tank selector valve reservoir for the front tank supply and return line and closes off the supply and return lines to the rear tank. If you move the dash tank selector switch from the front to the rear, The front in tank pump looses power and is no longer producing fuel pressure while now though, the rear pump has power and starts producing fuel pressure. The pressure opens a different valve in the mechanical tank selector valve reservoir closing off the front tank lines and opening the rear lines..
I probably didn't explain that very well and have you thoroughly confused by now....

This may help..


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So once you understand how the mechanical valve works we can continue..... So if you move the tank selector switch from the front to the rear tank then power power is sent to the rear pump BUT you don't have one right now... SO why doesn't the engine run out of gas a d die? Because the Mechanical selector valve has not changed from the front to rear tank because there is no pressure from the rear tank to push the diaphragm up and close off the front tank. But with the tank dash selector switch on rear, the pump in the front tank has no power... True but the high pressure pump is capable of sucking fuel from the tank by itself if it is already primed.
Hope that makes sense.

 

Thanks annaleigh, it makes perfect sense and you explained it very well.
as for the old post it was from 2016 I believe. You stated the PO installed anew pump but you were having some problems with it as it had a low groaning sound so you replaced the tank and put in a new Delphi. I guess if you haven't had to change it out since then, it must be a pretty good pump.
thanks.