I placed the gauges on the system after being off and truck being cool and they were equal. I read that is proper. . I started the truck, and as I’ve been noticing, the cycling happenes a lot and it’s from low pressure cutout, I believe

so I add refrigerant, not evacuated or anything, and I have much less cycling of the clutch and my ac is cool again and it’s not freaking out on the scan tool. My live data said it was WAC cutout, but I noticed the low pressure seemed to dictate the cycling more than throttle input (espwhen idling out of the cab)

this is the resting stage after about 10 min idling in 78f and 14.8psi BARO according o my trucks live data(I’m pretty close to sea level, it was a gloomy day, afternoon, muggy, ) amd this is what the gauges read

im no AC expert, but the clutch was engaged at the time this photo was snapped. Is here anything to note?

I think my leak is from a rusty line coming off the compressor to the condenser, so I believe that is in the near future. I will also check rhe orificie and do O rings on my component at the same time. I have a connector on the … cycling switch..? That has a burned out terminal and the switch appears undismayed but I want to replace that wiring and sensor to ensure proper function.

my connector on the high pressure switch also needs addressing and the ac clutch connector looked ok on inspection

 

Try to rent a leak detector for those suspect areas of leaking. Also check if you have a cabin air filter. If you do it might need a change out. restricted air flow across the evap coil will deminish the heat transfer and read as lower pressure and give that cycling switch a work out. Those pressures not bad wouldn't hurt to beep up the suction side 5-psi but generally ok. My girlfriend has a honda fit and while driving on a mountain rd. in the spring a couple years back for a performance in Boone NC using the A/C on low it started getting warm and no longer cool/cold air. When we got there I pulled the cabin filter and it was froze into a block of ice, not terribly dirty but enough restricted air flow along with cooler outside temps that dropped the pressure to the point of freeze over. I walked down to that local parts store and got a new one and replaced while she was doin her thing. and all better on the way home. My 95 f150 does not have one but if yours does, likely behind the glove box keep an eye on that.

 

it’s funny.. I actually own a sniffer(didn’t remember till you said something) but I haven’t used it yet. Not even sure if it’s a quality one. It came with my gauge set but that wasn’t why I bought the gauges or my vacuum pump.

but I don’t think my 96 would have a cabin air filter.. would it?
I’ll check but I just kinda assumed an OBS truck wouldn’t be equipped with such luxury but I could easily be surprised at the fact my grandparents old 2010 Dodge Journey DID NOT have a cabin filter, it was optional.

if my truck does I bet it it’s due because the truck has had a dusty, dirty life despite the lower miles


on that same subject, I noticed my vacuum issue is getting worse for my vents where it will bleed off over time snd go to .. defrost? Basically it doesn’t come out the vents. I usually turn it off, coast in gear or idle stopped for a few seconds, hen turn it back on, let it fully engage before I press the accelerator so the vacuum doesn’t drop while moving the motor or whatever


does the OBS trucks have the same HVAC setups for single cabs, and is it the check valve over by the solenoid or valve that connects by a long tube to my charcoal canister?
is there more than one check valve?

I have replaced a lot of bad vac tubing and hose, but there may be a few hold outs.

 

Also I should detail that I didn’t fill the system with “proper” amount I just kinda added enough to engage the clutch more than 7 second interval and also till the vents were chilly but that came out to be less than a can of just refrigerant. So 10 ish ounces I believe? Whatever the cans are lol but only like 4/5 of one.

it may very well be slightly low or high(but low seems like it would be proper for what you said)

 

Proper amount . As long as all portions of system are working correctly then the chart should be good. "Proper" is all functions clean and working then with the system empty and vacumed down. your truck should have a charging tag/sticker on rail above the radiator along with other stickers with various info. like how the serpentine belt routes over all the pullys etc. Most trucks our size will take 38-40 oz. of 134-a from dead empty and in a vacume. Other wise the chart will have you about as close as you can get. I looked and seems your truck does not have that cabin filter unless dealer installed

 

yes I’m aware of how it should be evacuated and filled but until I replace the severely rusted line, put a new orifice tube thing? And fix some connectors I will just have the added refrigerant for now lol. It’s the original refrigerant fill and wasn’t anything to concern oneself with until this year. It just “always worked” since it came into the family in 2004 and 60-70k miles.
I would be the first time the caps have likely been off, for example. The line that is rusted has the high pressure cutout switch too, which doesn’t strike me as sound. I think the issue is from type f that leaked out onto that line and both PS lines and sitting and never getting cleaned under hood and being in a spot where dust and debris collects. I’ll prob do all 3 lines in that area and make a day job out of it to reseal the pushrod cover too. Maybe even fix my knock sensor connector and have that functional too lol

maybe thT would be a great time for ps pump upgrade with a c2 housing and reservoir with Saginaw internals 😍

of course the ps cooling grid would be a perfect time to be installed too


oh I’m getting so far ahead of my wallet right now.

 

I am betting it is one of the vacuum lines to the AC door valve (not sure the proper name) under the hood on far side of passenger firewall. I had the same issue, finally found one of those hard plastic lines had a crack in it. Instead of replacing it, just cut it open at bad spot and put a snug rubber vacuum hose over the joint. It seems a lot of the plastic lines under the hood become fragile over time from the engine heat.

Broncobasher

 

not a bad idea to check for cracks length wise, they would be slippery little ducks.


would a vacuum leak here affect both banks or would it hit bank 2 by chance

 

Both banks?

 

bank 2 only. I noticed poor mating quality on the oxygen sensor for that bank and repluhged it and have yet to drive. But the bolt connection almost looks.. loose?

 

Are you sure you're posting in the right thread? What the hell does the Oxygen Sensor have to do with Air Conditioning?

 

i would say your pressures are a tad low, but within range.
i would want to see around 40psi low side instead of 30.
and no, you do not have a cabin air filter.

 

asked if the vacuum system for HVAC being leaky or not check-valving proper could affect one bank only on the lean-side of things.

I said oxygen sensor because the relevant sensor for the bank, 2, had issues so i looked at that beings it would be a direct reason for bank 2, yes.

i asked about the bank 2 thing because we were talking vac tubing and misfires/leak on the intermittnt or hard-to-locate basis.

its okay we are all still here on same pages of the various books