Engine turning hard after timing system replacement
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Engine turning hard after timing system replacement
I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners on my 2004 5.4 3V. I installed a high volume oil pump. I installed new lash adjusters and roller followers. I also installed the lockout blocks on the variable timing. I was sure the timing was set correct on the marks. I rotated everything with a ratchet on the crank before putting the covers back on and everything moved freely. After buttoning everything up I when to turn over the engine and it would barley turn and the starter was working very hard. I kept the crank sensor off so it would not fire. I put a ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt to try and manually turn it and it was very difficult.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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No, but the terminals were getting hot and smoking. I was smelling burning and thought it may be the starter getting hot. So thought it was the engine being hard to crank. I pulled the timing chain cover off and did not see anything obvious. When turning the crank with a ratchet it was hard at one point and easy at other. I figure that would be from compression? If hitting the valves I would not think I could do that by hand. Also would think the timing would have to be off pretty far for that. I also hear a hissing noise from the oil pan area, but figure that is the oil pump. I thought it was got easier to turn when the hissing stopped, but hard to tell as is a fresh turn when I stop and go so may just be that.
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No, but the terminals were getting hot and smoking. I was smelling burning and thought it may be the starter getting hot. So thought it was the engine being hard to crank. I pulled the timing chain cover off and did not see anything obvious. When turning the crank with a ratchet it was hard at one point and easy at other. I figure that would be from compression? If hitting the valves I would not think I could do that by hand. Also would think the timing would have to be off pretty far for that. I also hear a hissing noise from the oil pan area, but figure that is the oil pump. I thought it was got easier to turn when the hissing stopped, but hard to tell as is a fresh turn when I stop and go so may just be that.
Yes it should get hard to turn by hand due to compression.
The hissing is the compression leaking past the rings and into the crankcase. It's overly noticeable because the engine is turning slow.
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Pulled the 5 spark plugs that I can get to easy to check if it makes a difference in rotation. I does seem to turn easier in some sections and hard when you hear the air bleed down. I also scoped a couple of cylinders and did not see any piston damage from an impact. But still at a loss on why it would not turn over as easy as it did before I did the work. If I did hit valves during the crank is the damage done? Would there be nothing to lose if I try to fire it up and see if things loosen up?
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Only if the power dropped low enough to not hold the starter relay or solenoid in.
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I pulled all the spark plugs and it was still difficult to turn each time a piston was going to TDC. I put a long screwdiver in the plug hole and I could feel it turning harder to turn as it approached TDC. It stayed hard until TDC and then spun easy. It seemed that wtth the amount the screwdriver moved up from resistance until TDC if the piston was hitting a valve it would be closer to TDC when the resistance kicked in and if there was contact at the beginning of the resistance than the valve would have blown through the piston due to the amount the screw driver went up. So I am in the process of pulling the valve covers and resetting the timing.
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Just figured out the issue. I set the cams using the wrong marks!!!!. So each cam was off 180 degrees. Anyone know how screwed I am? Are the valves bent without a doubt or any chance no harm done since not started? But there was many rotations in the troubleshooting? I am going to reset the timing and then check compression.
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Just figured out the issue. I set the cams using the wrong marks!!!!. So each cam was off 180 degrees. Anyone know how screwed I am? Are the valves bent without a doubt or any chance no harm done since not started? But there was many rotations in the troubleshooting? I am going to reset the timing and then check compression.
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I retimed the engine, I am sure it is correct this time per the marks. But it still rotates hard. One thing I noticed as that neither of the cam gears had a "R" on it. Both had an "L" with an arrow on the top. When I pulled the cams to put on the lockout lugs I put them in a box to the same orientation as the engine so as to not mix them up, but anything is possible. Any way to tell which cam is driver vs passenger?
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Well found the problem. The cam phasers on this truck both have an L with an arrow on one side and just a notch on the other. No R. The notch is the R. So the first time the driver side was 180 out and the second time the passenger was 180 out. So I ended up running both sides 180 out.....
Now can only hope there is no damage..
Now can only hope there is no damage..
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