I know everyone here has answered the long start questions a million times. But I’m beyond frustrated and behooved. Couple of weeks back I had a long start getting ready to head out to make my rounds to clients lawns. So I left the truck running in fears of being stranded. Made back to the shop and began to tear it down. Found 1 o-ring on the stand pipe on the drivers side severely chaffed. Replaced standpipes and dummy plugs , reassembled, and fired it back up. Only to have a misfire on #2 cyl. Traced it down to a bad connection on the FICM. Wet to restart again and had an even longer crank til it fired than before replacement on pipes/plugs. Now I counted an 18 second crank til it starts. I’ve air tested since, via the ICP port and through the port on the drivers side. No leaks when the IPR is activated. What’s to test next? Where do I go? Truck is an ‘06 F250 below are some screenshots of readings when @ KOEO, cranking, and idling when cold. Thanks for any foresight in advance.

 

Ficm, just because main power is good doesn't mean logic side is.
vehicle power is definitely low. Charge batteries. Then have tested. But look into ficm.

 

I'd also test the alternator. 11.5 volts at idle isn't anything to be happy with - unless the glow plugs were still on.

Also, 33.9 % Duty Cycle is a bit high for a cold idle IMO. It will just go up as the oil gets hot.

 

Thanks for the input tremendously. where should the logic power be at? In the screen shots it is at 12v KOEO, 10.5v when cranking and 11v at idle cold. Which are both logic and vehicle power. Where can I get the FICM tested? Avoiding dealership since this is an aftermarket FICM. I will charge the batteries and go at it again since it’s been a couple weeks since I’ve driven it for any length and have the alternator tested in the meantime.

 

What is a good % on the duty cycle cold? You are correct it did go up as the truck warmed. I didn’t get a shot of it but the oil temp was up to 152* and the HPOP pressure was down to 550psi. I can’t remember exactly what the duty cycle was but I did increase. What should I be looking at from this perspective? Hopefully not a pump.

 

Ficm repair.com for Ficm testing.
24.7 is my duty cycle warm at idle. I think it's 27.6 at cold start idle. Hpop runs 643 psi. As far as logic power it normally runs with vehicle power. But that does not mean you don't have issues. It's hard to diagnose ficms by monitoring pids. Now when your main power is dropping its a tell tail sign your Ficm is getting weak. Not so on logic side.

 

thanks for where to test the FICM. That’s where a got it from almost 11 yrs ago. Just didn’t want to throw their name out there to make it sound like they had a bad product, cause they certainly do not. For the duty cycle where should I start looking? IPR? Pump? Like I said there are no leaks once the IPR is charged. I did update the STC fitting last year as well. Thanks

 

I just went through the exact same thing with my grandson's 2005. (used to be mine)
Me, not listening to all the experts here, went ahead and bought injector seal kit, nipple seals and standpipes from Amazon. The parts were fairly inexpensive, but cost me a TON of work since I had to dig in it multiple times due to my own stubbornness.
The main symptom before I started work on it was no start hot.
Second time was the truck actually shut down while my grandson was driving it. (stand pipe blow out)
Third time was two symptoms, no start hot, long start cold.
So here are my thoughts about this whole fiasco:
Standpipes: I had multiple o ring failures with new stand pipes. The top o ring always looked chafed and the bottom o ring of the top section would blow out after a day or so, meaning I had to search for pieces each time. I looked at getting motorcraft standpipes after multiple failures with the cheap ones, but read on the Thoroughbred Diesel site that even the motorcraft ones are now made in China. They stated that the ones they make are "enhanced" with USA made O rings, so I purchased those for around $120, about the same as motorcraft.
Injector o rings: I bought a full kit with outside, crush washers, and upper seals. Upper seals would last a few days then they would be severely worn, causing no start hot. I actually had a full set of Allient injector seals that I had bought a few years ago and found them in my parts box so I ultimately used those.
Nipple Seals: I had replaced the nipple seals last fall but I wasn't about to go that far in and not replace them. The O rings with the kit that I bought from Amazon just didn't fit exactly like they should so I got a HHC diesel kit which is supposed to be USA made.
Conlusions:

• If you're taking HPO system apart, do it all, every time. Injector crush rings, outside seals, upper seals, nipple seals, enhanced standpipes.
• Do not buy seals from Amazon, or anyone else, unless they are quality parts. Don't be lured into buying the cheap parts unless you really like doing the job over.
• Standpipes, use the ones from Thoroughbred Diesel.
• Injector seal kit, use only Aliant G8 kits
• Nipple seals use HHC diesel kits.

So the truck is now running great, hope it sticks.
Good luck. Sorry for the long post.

 

I would probably get the kit below for standpipes and dummy plugs - for the reasons mentioned above:

https://www.dieselsite.com/2004.5-20...tandpipes.aspx

 

Those are the ones I purchased, but got them from Thoroughbred, same initial price was about $120 with tax and free shipping.

 

Well needless to say, after everything happening I followed yours and others advice… and ended up doing another new set of standpipes/ dummy plugs, HHC nipple cups/ o-rings, new ICP sensor, and even did new injectors. So before a complete reassembly, I pulled the FICM relay, cranked and monitored til the pressure came up. 15 sec crank/ couple min rest. Did this 3 times to make sure pressure came up. By 3rd time pressures came up relatively quick. So I completed reassembly, let the batteries charge back up, came back to now a 12 second crank and HPOP came up to 581 til it fired. Let run for a good while to let all the air get out of the fuel and oil systems as well. So now I’ve pulled the turbo to do an IPR air test… NO LEAKS heard plus screen on IPR was clean. So my question is where to from here? Bad high pressure pump or oil cooler? Thanks again for all the help

 

Show readings keof...then while cranking with jumper wire on left side of battery. The more info the better.
sounds like there was a lot of work done. Question is now?.... Are all install and torque specs done correctly? Not trying to knock on your work, but it's easy to slip a little on install. Post your readings on cranking. Those will help the most.

 

Ok so KOEO is
ICPv-0.24
ICP-0.00
IPR- 14.84
no FICM relay

cranking is
ICPv -0.66
ICP -316.68
IPR- 84.77
no FICM relay

KOER- cold idle
ICPv- 0.86
icp-581.24
IPR-23.05
logic v-13.5
main v- 48.5
vehicle v- 13.5
Rpm-708

KOER- warm
ICPv - 1.44
icp- 1066.19
ipr-37.11
logic v-13.5
main v -48.5
vehicle v 14.0
RPM- 2256
oil temp-161
water temp- 183
The water and oil temp differences are what’s concerning right now as well.

Also I torqued the the following to
standpipes/ plugs to 60ft#
nipple cups 100ft#
injector retainers 24ft#
oil rails 10ff#

didn’t have the FICM tested due to folks at FICM repair not being concerned with a FICM issue. They were really helpful as to making sure that I didn’t kill it though… for the pulling the relay and then cranking procedure to get system primed and fully ready to start.

As for the IPR air test. Once I released the air and unhooked the air hose the HPOP puked oil from the adaptor. Plus I used a rubber hose to listen into the CCV, oil fill neck, and turbo return I heard no air leaking out
Hope all this helps.

 

Did you get it out on the highway to run it (including some spirited accelerations), or did you just run it at idle?

 

No runs. Ran pretty rough to begin with. Did some revs in the shop though.