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I had my intake sandblasted, covered in this thread Intake Sandblasted and @Dirk N pointed out that it might not have been the best idea.
I went out to take a look at how it was done. I noticed on the side that the exhaust riser attaches to (not sand blasted) the smaller port was loaded with rust scale, completely plugged. I of course couldn’t handle seeing that so I dig it all out and found a hole rusted through to the larger port.
I assume the manifold is no hood anymore sand has to be repaired or discarded. I have a second manifold and the metal is good and solid between those 2 areas.
Input please!
Hole between the two chambers looking from bottom.
You are fortunate to have a spare! Finding a replacement is said to be tough. You'll have to handle your spare with special care as exhaust manifolds for our engines are also said to be fragile and subject to breaking (and rusting out) apparently. Good luck!
This one is the ‘55. The ‘62 seems pretty solid. That one I am going to clean in the purple cleaner stuff to get all the grease off and then either soak in Rust 911 or try the the electrolysis process to remove the rust. I won’t sandblast it.
I may try to get the ‘55 one fixed at a later date, but plenty of other stuff to do now!
I can’t believe how much rust was in that ‘55 Engine. The rest of the truck is 99% light surface rust but that motor is a train wreck. Even the exhaust wasn’t crazy rusty up by the block and the down pipe I am going to use again.
If the engine is in such bad condition it needs anyhow a professional rebuild by a machine shop. For sure all the bearings needs to replaced. The cylinder needs to be bored next largest size of piston, honed,… And these machine shops do all parts hot tanking what removes rust, grease and almost all what belongs not to the engine. Usually they also have the knowledge to weld casts as well.
By the way about rust removal try citric acid it is cheap does not harm the environment and works well. Check google there are plenty ways to remove rust.
Best regards
Dirk
Germany
Thanks Dirk. The good news is I have second engine which Abe was referring too. The rusty rotten one is the original ‘55 and the hood motor is out of a ‘62 panel truck.
Good suggestion on the citric acid but I have never found a source that I can get it in enough volume. I only use environmentally safe rust remover like evapo rust which is a chelating agent.
I have also used vinegar but is is not quite as good at removing scale and takes a really long time.
What I haven’t tried yet but have seen lots of excellent results on other boards is a baking soda bath with a sacrificial anode like rebar. I think you hook the negative to the part you are removing rust from and the positive to the anode and stuff comes out squeaky clean. Can’t have any oil on it. That is super cheap and as environmentally friendly as it gets.
Go with the electrolysis process but it will only remove rust "line of sight"
So anything inside would not be touched.
It can be done in a small plastic tub or a large pool!
I made it large enough to do hoods & fenders, that's a fender and bumper brackets in there, for a car project I have been working on.
When I was done the iron rich water went on the back yard grass with no issues.
Dave ----
That’s a heck of a set up! I think I will look at something a little smaller scale. 😉
Go BIG or go home
My first try as a test was in a 5 gallon bucket with motor brackets. That worked so good I built the pool.
The left over wood I made 2 benches that the backs fold up flat and when pushed together made a picnic table.
Dave. ---'
After seeing your pool I am now thinking about building one myself. I have enough 4x4s to make one a couple of feet wide and 6ft+ long and deep enough to hold all the parts I need to do, primarily the rear springs and front axle along with a bunch of smaller parts.
let’s see how motivated I get. I am out of paint for awhile so this might be a good time.
If that is just an exhaust manifolds and not a combination intake/exhaust make steel plate for it to seal it. If the intake or something else bolts on top just use a thinner piece of steel.
That is the intake which mounts on top of the exhaust manifold. With that hole there exhaust gasses will pass into the intake so in order for it to work it would need to be plugged.
Ibjust got back from the machine shop and he said that at this out I should make my '60 intake and exhaust work since my '55 exhaust manifold has a large crack in it.
I had thought about just filling that cavity with some kind of molten metal. Lead melts at 670 degrees and if the intake is that hot there is a much bigger problem. But since the exhaust is no good I will just set this aside again.
Thanks for the responses!
And yes, a kiddy pool is $20 and makes a great tank!
