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Trying to get to the "secret" spot, I wound up dropping into 2 collapsed culverts that were obscured by brush and debris. What started out as the rattling one gets when a caliper spring goes missing, turned into a full blown "will I make it out of the next 45 miles of off-road and then another 45 miles of paved road before my truck collapses in a heap?
Turns out my pass side front stub shaft has given up - to the point it bangs into the steering knuckle/ball joint. Manual hub will not engage (lifted off ground). No play in the wheel bearing though - after rigorous prybar action. Photo showing contact attached also.
I have seen vids of people demonstrating "loose" stub shafts, but nothing as bad as mine. In those cases it was either improper assembly, or the needle bearing let go. I have no doubt my bearing failed, and it, the stub shaft (and u-joint), locking hub, and associated dust seals, etc will need to be replaced.
Given the long lead times for parts we are seeing, and the fact that I can bang the u-joint/shaft between top and bottom ball joints easily, is there anything else I should consider ordering? There was no main bearing play, so I am thinking the hub assy itself is ok? In other words, is this limited to 4x4 components only? Thanks.
That's alot of movement right there. Would be interesting to see how the thrust washers look behind the manual hub, with that amount of stub axle play, as well as the passage through the hub. The washers and possibly the hub might need replacing. Certainly the needle bearing, as you've pointed out. Good that the main (unit) bearing is still tight, though.
Are the ball joints tight? I would expect the ball joints and unit bearing to take the brunt of the forces when hitting a bump/hole in the road, and not so much the axle shafts. Looks like the seals have been deteriorating for awhile, and this latest outing pushed them, the needle bearing, etc, over the edge.
Be good to see what you find when you pull it apart.
Wow, I've never seen one so pitted. If I'm not mistaken that's the yolk on your inner axle, either way the ears where the U joint cups press in look considerably thinner then the ones on my truck. The babe really rotted so far gone you might consider replacing the inner axles as well as the stubs.
Wow, I've never seen one so pitted. If I'm not mistaken that's the yolk on your inner axle, either way the ears where the U joint cups press in look considerably thinner then the ones on my truck. The babe really rotted so far gone you might consider replacing the inner axles as well as the stubs.
The photo makes it look worse. Yes there is corrosion, but it isn't really to the point of concern.
The shaft hit the BJs but I don't see anything to indicate the BJs were moved. So yay.
Might be worth lifting the wheel and yanking at 12 and 6, then 9 and 3. See what moves.
Do you have OEM 4wd hubs or aftermarket?
Yes the shaft/yoke smashed the innards of the ball joints. But I don't see any damage to them. I had lifted the front and yanked, tugged, and pulled the wheels at 12/6/9/3, maybe even 430 and 1030. No movement whatsoever. I'm pretty confident that this is limited to the 4x4 part of the program. Although the large movement puzzles me - maybe once both the bearing and oil seal are ruined, maybe that allows that unrestricted movement?
I have aftermarket Warns - manual only in there. The side in question doesn't lock in now.
I read through Guzzle's writeup about servicing the needle bearing. What I am guilty of is not paying attention to the vac seals in there. I switched to manual hubs right away when I bought this rig because the originals weren't working. Once I cut/capped the vac line I thought that was it. I'm sure once I get this all opened up I will see failed vacuum o-rings, allowing all manner of stuff to get involved with the needle bearing. Minus 10 for me for not paying attention.
That's alot of movement right there. Would be interesting to see how the thrust washers look behind the manual hub, with that amount of stub axle play, as well as the passage through the hub. The washers and possibly the hub might need replacing. Certainly the needle bearing, as you've pointed out. Good that the main (unit) bearing is still tight, though.
Are the ball joints tight? I would expect the ball joints and unit bearing to take the brunt of the forces when hitting a bump/hole in the road, and not so much the axle shafts. Looks like the seals have been deteriorating for awhile, and this latest outing pushed them, the needle bearing, etc, over the edge.
Be good to see what you find when you pull it apart.
It will be good to see from a curiosity standpoint, but not so much from a wallet standpoint.
If you still have the early 99 hub's now would be the time to change everything. Much cheaper in the future for parts. I would say your hubs are toast to. That's a lot of movement.
If you are to the point of needing to replace the stub axle and the unit bearing, how about going all-out and putting a free spin conversion in?
At those prices, that is going all out. But it is a differential cost from buying the usual characters for this type of repair. I am still pricing things up but I'm close to $300 per side right now*. Versus the $1k for the warn version of the Free Spin. I don't think I need to replace the hub assy since the "unit" bearing is still in good shape (by virtue of near zero play lifted and pry-barred). Does anyone have this "free spin" upgrade going on?
* Dana/Spicer U's, D/S stub shaft, SKF -40F Seals, Warn man locks, plus a swag at remaining seals, o-rings, studs, washers, needle bearing, etc.
If you still have the early 99 hub's now would be the time to change everything. Much cheaper in the future for parts. I would say your hubs are toast to. That's a lot of movement.
OEM hubs were changed to a Warn product when I got the truck. Originals were toast.
It is alot of movement. With needle bearing and dust seal blown out, does that alone account for the movement? I am starting to think that the stub shaft snapped also. It is the only thing I can think of that would explain all the play in that stub shaft.
The first hole I hit jarred loose a $10 bill from somewhere in the truck. It wasn't anywhere when I started since I did a re-org and pack on stuff in the cab a couple of hours earlier. Suddenly there is a 10-spot on the shifter boot. Maybe if I smash a couple more washed out culverts, I can pay for that "free spin" upgrade someone recommended.
One of the tamer parts of the trip.
