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Okay so I bought this after market radio that’s designed for this specific truck and I was going to hook it up the original harness was ripped out ig idk why and I’m just still learning so I need help if I was going to run dedicated wires for my radio using the harness that came with it one says ignition, the other batter I understand the ant and the ground just how would I go about doing this thanks
Battery is there to preserve the memory in the device for clock and radio station presets etc.. Not necessary but if it is something you want run a 14-16 gauge wire to the battery.
Ignition should run to the radio fuse in the fuse block presuming there was a radio previously installed in the truck. Check for the wire that runs out of the back of the fuse block from the radio fuse and follow it as close to the radio opening as you can and splice into it with a piece of 14-16 gauge red wire . you can use the small grey wire nuts to make these connections and later once you've determined you've got it wired correctly then solder it.
The speakers are self evident just don't reverse the pair on each speaker.
If the new device does not have it's own fuse then an inline fuse holder on the red power wire is cheap insurance tor protect your New device.
In the case where there is no radio fuse location in the fuse block the cigarette lighter circuit can be a donor circuit.
Awesome thanks for educating me on the battery part and thanks for the help
I’ll keep you updated
oh sorry question too on my fuse block is isn’t labeled what’s the best way to figure which is which? I tried looking up diagrams just can’t find anything for 74 Ford F-250 (supercab) idk if that changes anything
Last edited by Trent_8828; Jul 13, 2021 at 05:08 AM.
12 Amp. — Located intergral with headlight switch; protects headlight circuits.
15 Amp. — Located integral with headlight switch; protects tail, license, parking and marker lights, horn.
8.25 Amp. (pin terminal type switch) — Located integral with wiper switch; windshield wiper.
7 Amp. (blade terminal type switch) — Located integral with wiper switch; windshield wiper.
Circuit breakers for marker lights on the following vehicles are found in the instrument panel and rated as follows: F-250 & F-350 Camper Special use a 25 ampere circuit breaker. F-350 with dual rear wheels use a 15 ampere circuit breaker.
Fusible Links:
Fusible links are used as follows for circuit protection: Separate links in starter motor relay for protection of air conditioner, alternator, marker lights and trailer tow. Alternator is also protected by a link located at electric choke.
Awesome thanks for educating me on the battery part and thanks for the help
I’ll keep you updated
oh sorry question too on my fuse block is isn’t labeled what’s the best way to figure which is which? I tried looking up diagrams just can’t find anything for 74 Ford F-250 (supercab) idk if that changes anything
Yes that one wire hooked to the back of the cig lighter goes over to a black 3 port plug just behind the glove box left hand side. Just keep in mind it is a constant 12v power source. And if you have a glove box light, it also uses the same wire in a Y set up.
The original wires for radio are probably still there for the factory radio , plug may be cut off but wires should be there and there are very helpful wiring diagrams to help determine , I used aftermarket radio in mine but found the original wiring for radio which also has a wire for the radio display light , so now my aftermarket accessory's components dim with the dash lights with headlight switch , I was able to hook my after market tach light to dim with with the dash lights as well as my after market gauges to dim as well , the only need for another dedicated power source would be for memory if its required for the after market radio which can be run separately or off the lighter plug or couple other areas , hooking up to original wiring also helps to kill power with the key off , I preferred this but to each his own
Just remember that the OEM radio plug is not your normal power/ground set up. Ground comes from radio being installed in dash. Green plug is radio, multimeter which is keyed power and constant power for radio frequency memory. You do a power/ground to the green plug you chance frying things.
I know there is a very good thread on this some where....
Green/yellow wires, black body is the constant 12v over behind the glove box.
This is the OEM radio power source. Both are HOT.
You will never be sorry for having run a separate ground from the radio chassis to a solid metal ground point. It will help with radio noise suppression if nothing else.
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and you're welcome 
