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Brought this over from another post that I sort of accidentally got involved in. So here is a little background and previous info along with somewhat of an update. Thanks sorry getting on the other post. Oh, and why do we always have to change the "TITLE" of our reply to another post? I can never remember the previous title of the original post so that also confuses me. BTW this is the only forum I have ever been involved with, EVER. LOL. You folks are all a great help too. Also, my responses to IHATECOMMIECARS are in all caps within his quote.
Originally Posted by IHateCommieCarsView Post
Joyful, to move you along...if you truck is getting hot at idle, but then cools off as you drive, it would indicate that the fan is not pulling enough air through the radiator. Driving forces air through, so it starts to cool off. It will still overheat while driving too, as the weather warms up and the fan gets worse and the terrain gets worse or your load gets heavier. And especially if you get stuck in traffic, with no moving air. Or maybe the radiator or AC condensor is caked up with mud so that air is restricted, or junked up inside so coolant can't flow through fast enough. NOW DONE SEE MY RESPONSE BELOW
The fan could be bad - they do wear out and aren't hard to replace. Prolly end up about $500 at a garage, but you can do it at home for half that. THIS IS MOST LIKELY A RELATED CULPRIT IN MY OPINION, BUT i HAVE NOT TESTING EQUIPMENT NOR THE KNOWLEDGE TO DO SO.
But, it could also be the wiring going to the fan, or a bad sensor not telling the computer to turn the fan on. You really need to connect a data device to the truck and see what it's doing. Pull the codes, monitor the temps while driving. Those gauges on the dash are worthless and not even intended to be accurate. IF DASH GAUGES ARE WORTHLESS WHAT DO I NEED TO DO INSTEAD, OR GET? I ALSO WONDER IF IT IS JUST THE FAN SENSOR. NOT SURE WHICH FIX WOULD BE CHEAPER TO HOPE FOR THOUGH.
PREVIOUS POST BY ME; So, I hosed out the radiator the best I could, and the condensor front exterior. Next will be the road test. But I am not holding out much hope for that being my issue as it did not appear to have anything muddying up the water going through the radiator when hosed it out. I found my Degas bottle! Yay.
QUESTION: For a temporary fix en-route to get repairs done, has anyone ever used a trick when in a standstill and engine begins to overheat where you put truck in Neutral and increase RPMs to say 1,000? According to my mechanic back home that should make my temp drop right back down because it triggers my waterpump somehow to circulate more or something like that.
Well, re the trick, first, that prolly worked better in the old days of direct drive fans rather than with these electronic fan clutches we got now. Second, I don't know that increasing coolant flow with a high idle would cool it down if there was no air coming through the radiator, i.e. the fan isn't sucking enough through.
What you need is a way to monitor live data. You can buy a mobile app called TorquePro or Forscan for like $5 online, and then order an OBDII wireless connector for your phone type (blue tooth for Android, wifi for IPhone). There's one by BAFX on Ebay/Amazon for about $30 that people like.
With those devices, you can monitor fan speed, exact EOT/ECT temps, and bunches of other data. You might find that your fan speed doesn't change much with that high idle. You can post the speeds you see at different speeds/temps and we'll tell you what you're seeing.
Well, I am now officially overwhelmed. LOL I am going to take it to a truck garage where my late husband and I dealt with previously and have them run these test you mention. They are honest, fortunately. I just don't have the mental energy left to learn more about my engine/ cooling/ heating than I currently do at the moment. Thanks for all the advice guys. I will update you what I find out.
Thanks again,
Rayne
I understand, but at the same time, I still recommend that you buy that data device. IMHO, it's literally irresponsible to not monitor your temps and a couple of other sensors on these engines.
The devices and software you mention don't seem like they would give me the option to glance at my instrument panel and know what is going on right? Can I get better gauges that would monitor the various things in real time for me instead? Thanks,
Rayne
They would let you glance and know, if you prop your phone up in your instrument panel. They are mobile apps. You could get an Ipad, I assume, for a bigger screen size while driving. You can also program in alerts, so you phone will tell you if any of the gauges have triggered your pre-set value. After my previous post, I opened a new thread here about getting someone to create a tutorial on this. Turns out Rusty has done a lot of the work around the products. Check out that thread to find the link to his document.
The ScanGaugeII will mount easily and give you 4 parameters to watch. Just don't count on it for a code reader. It is a little "dated" on the technology and somewhat expensive for what you get ($125 or so).
Lots of people use the Edge CTS - it is very nice for displaying engine parameters.
I agree with IHCC about monitoring. The best bang for the buck is Torque Pro and an OBD2 adapter. I prefer Torque over Forscan as a monitor. As a monitor it is much easy to set up and read you data. The data is also read in real time. Like previously said you could pick up a cheap used tablet and use that for a bigger screen than a phone. If you got a big enough tablet you could basicly replace your entire cluster in functionality and have gauges show actual data.
I purchased the Bluetooth device recommended and a kindle tablet 7" screen.
You can temporarily mount it or buy a nice mount that goes on your dash, or cupholder etc etc.
It is easier to accomplish than you think. The scan gauge II is a dinosaur compared to what is available nowadays, plus you have to mess with parameter code entries which sucks.
Woo Hoo! overheating problem was resolved by spraying out the radiator coils and condenser! Tested it today, took it to the garage I deal with and he tested it and all tested out just fine and it did not overheat once! Phew! One repair bill averted and I am going to just sit on the AC issue since I don't need it to have heat until winter and I can just unzip tie the heat valve when I need it! Back to traveling again soon I hope!
Thanks everyone for your help.
Rayne
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