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As the title says, the 'quick disconnect' between the evaporator core and the accumulator on my 2010 6.4 PSD is not coming apart. The accumulator has been replaced less than 50 miles ago by a shop but for the life of me I can't get it to budge. I'm working on replacing the evaporator core. Since this connection is right where it passes through the firewall there isn't much room to work with and the way everything is mounted there is no way to twist anything. I'm using one of the inexpensive white quick disconnect tools (7/8") and it feels like its getting into the snap ring.
I'm debating cutting the AC line between the connection and the evaporator core, then pulling the entire accumulator out of the truck so hopefully I can get the connection separated there. I was planning on replacing all the o-rings so I'd need to replace the gasket on the fitting on the other side of the accumulator as well. Any thoughts on potential issues with this plan? Or any tips/tricks into getting this horribly placed disconnect separated?
Well if the AC is fully evacuated then there should be free play in the connection. When you try to release the connection are you pushing the quick connect together?
Well if the AC is fully evacuated then there should be free play in the connection. When you try to release the connection are you pushing the quick connect together?
Ive been trying to push it together but don't feel it moving at all. I've verified there's no pressure in the system by depressing the Schrader valve on the compressor side of the Accumulator. There was no pressure release. The leak in the evaporator core has been draining the system in a day or three anyways so it should be completely empty.
My theory is that when the accumulator was replaced, the o-rings were replaced as well so they are especially snug.
I always spray a lubricant such as WD40 on the spring side of connector. That helps the springs move out of the way so the connection can be separated. There could be some debris in the springs that won't let them get clear out of the way. The lubricant helps immensely.
I always spray a lubricant such as WD40 on the spring side of connector. That helps the springs move out of the way so the connection can be separated. There could be some debris in the springs that won't let them get clear out of the way. The lubricant helps immensely.
I've hosed it down with PB blaster and even ran some Petroleum Jelly in there to loosen up and corrosive gunk. Made the plastic tool slide in a bit easier but still no movement.
I've hosed it down with PB blaster and even ran some Petroleum Jelly in there to loosen up and corrosive gunk. Made the plastic tool slide in a bit easier but still no movement.
Does the white coupler tool wrap all the way around the pipe? If there is a gap then try the next size up. If the tool is loose on the pipe then try the next size smaller. FWIW, I've been able to separate some pretty nasty connections. You should be able to do it also. If not then cut the pipe on the evap side since you are replacing it and work it out after you have clearance.
Looking at parts diagrams, maybe I should cut the line at the evaporator core itself and leave myself a bit of a handle to work it from inside the cab (second person required) and still be able to get the HVAC box out, that would reduce the possibility of getting metal fragments into the parts of the system that I'm not replacing. Doesn't seem like it can leave me in a worse off position since I'm replacing the lines I'd be considering cutting anyways. Cut would be at the red line.
Does the white coupler tool wrap all the way around the pipe? If there is a gap then try the next size up. If the tool is loose on the pipe then try the next size smaller. FWIW, I've been able to separate some pretty nasty connections. You should be able to do it also. If not then cut the pipe on the evap side since you are replacing it and work it out after you have clearance.
The tool doesn't seem like it quite reaches all the way around, its the biggest tool I've been able to find. 7/8 inch. It does seem to fit flush to the pipe though. I've googled around for a 1" and haven't been able to find one referenced anywhere.
The tool doesn't seem like it quite reaches all the way around, its the biggest tool I've been able to find. 7/8 inch. It does seem to fit flush to the pipe though. I've googled around for a 1" and haven't been able to find one referenced anywhere.
You can buy a full set at most auto parts houses for around $10.00. They come in different colors for the different sizes. They also work on fuel lines so you aren't buying a one time use tool.
Edit to add: I don't use Amazon for anything but you can look up the Lisle part number and get it locally.
You can buy a full set at most auto parts houses for around $10.00. They come in different colors for the different sizes. They also work on fuel lines so you aren't buying a one time use tool.
Got it undone, seems like there was a bit of tension on the side of the fitting. Once I had sawn about 99% of the way through it the fitting itself came undone. Top tip for first timers, cutting the line at the top didn't help at all since it routes through a bunch of plastic at the firewall. I had to put the hvac box back all the way where it goes to get enough clearance on the engine bay side to cut the line without damaging the other component's fitting. Evap was replaced and the entire box reinstalled and buttoned up in another 20-30 minutes.
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