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Good you may have gotten it stopped.
maybe the female connector, prongs are flared out and taping it in, makes it keep contact, all the time, I may need to tape mine also, my clips are broke also, until I can find another connector, really wish people would remove correctly instead of just breaking them before asking how they come off
If you were asking what is it, rod knock or spark knock then I think you figured that out but a spark knock(incorrect detonated afr) is going to be changed by variables but a rod knock is most likely engine speed varied in frequency and load maybe the intensity of the sound and if you were to do a power balance test you would find the cylinder with rod knock would quiet when you remove the wire if it was just one.
but verify ignition components integrity I had a corroded **** on my coil and the **** is actually worn down from arcing. Rn it’s not getting worse but that kind of connection could very easily cause a knock under load but not light cruisin or idle
check plugs for carbon tracking
Check wires for bent contacts and snug fit
check wires if old for resistance and insulation breaks
check distributor cap for corrosion and all wires for insulation breaks and kinked wires
there is also a module that I understand is prone to behave like a jackass but still work and it’s associated wiring and grounds
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