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Hi yal. I have a 05 350 my business partners mother in law gave to us. I have paperwork intercooler was worked on and hpop was replaced at Ford dealer within last 5 years. Symptoms started with a hot no start. Did pressure test found air leaking from top of injector #6, so I Replaced it. While in there I put the newer 12mm stand pipes and dummy plugs in both sides. New ipr,icp, and ebp sensors too. Pressure test now good, but Now- the hot no start is gone, but truck was blowing dark smoke. Unplugged the injector and it went away. Turned to a whitish/grey smoke. Passes buzz test. Key off and starter wire to pos terminal can hear a skip ( I assume number 6). Also number six contribution balance code. Ficm plugged in all the way, has power, batteries have power. My question is… I’m willing to pull the valve covers off again and do a compression test.. but what are odds it’s something I can get to from there and fix. If I need to pull head and cab I’ll probably take to a mechanic.
The first suspect would be you did not install the injector correctly. The procedure would be to remove the old injector, make sure the copper washer came out, clean out the bore with proper wire brushes and use a lint-free cloth to wipe out any remaining debris, make sure the injector hold down the female threaded hole is clean of any oil (prevents full torque), and torque to the specs noted in the Motorcraft box - because you only use Motorcraft boxed injectors!
Any injector removal and replacement require new o-rings and copper washer, again, from a Ford dealer.
The first suspect would be you did not install the injector correctly. The procedure would be to remove the old injector, make sure the copper washer came out, clean out the bore with proper wire brushes and use a lint-free cloth to wipe out any remaining debris, make sure the injector hold down the female threaded hole is clean of any oil (prevents full torque), and torque to the specs noted in the Motorcraft box - because you only use Motorcraft boxed injectors!
Any injector removal and replacement require new o-rings and copper washer, again, from a Ford dealer.
I did use a Ford remanufactured injector. Does the copper washer come attached to the bottom of the injector? I looked for these, and it looked like there was one on the bottom of the old, and the new injector. I did not blow oil out of the bolt hole though. If it was not installed properly, would it hold air and make black smoke? ( does not have black smoke when it’s unplugged) thanks for the reply!
I drove maybe 3-4 miles with it plugged in, i didn’t want that much smoke, thought the injector must be working because there’s unburnt fuel, so I unplugged it. Have put maybe 20 miles on it with it unplugged. Your question has me thinking though, I don’t think there was a cylinder problem before I changed injector. Do they need some type of break in time?
TMT wrote what I'm thinking of too.
Remove upper fuel filter and let housing fill up (very short time key on) . Crank engine (key off!) with the starter signal cable on positive battery pole passenger side. Let it crank 3x 20 sec. and look for air bubbles in the upper fuel filter bowl.
TMT wrote what I'm thinking of too.
Remove upper fuel filter and let housing fill up (very short time key on) . Crank engine (key off!) with the starter signal cable on positive battery pole passenger side. Let it crank 3x 20 sec. and look for air bubbles in the upper fuel filter bowl.
I reconnected #6 injector this morning and drove it for 20 minutes, hoping there was just air trapped or something. Didn’t help. I got it back to by shop and then it wouldn’t start. Batteries were tested and they said it had 1/4 life left. I trickle charged them while working on it last week. It was starting right up every time with #6 cylinder disconnected. And the alternator is brand new. I just tested each battery and both were around 12.5. Did the key off start and there WERE bubbles in the fuel bowl.
you have to work extremely cleanly and carefully on injector jobs. Before I take the valve covers off, I clean the area around them with a vacuum cleaner and shop air. To remove and install the oil rails, I screw in 3 studs so the rail is inserted exactly vertically out of the injectors and into the injectors during assembly. I clean the injector cups with a non-linting wipe soaked in brake cleaner. The sealing surface on the injector cup must be completely clean. The threaded hole for the injector hold down clamp bolt must also be clean, otherwise you will not be able to tighten your injector with the specified spec.
these are the 3 bolts i use before removing or installing the rail. So the nipples always come vertically into the injector
You've got a mis-installed injector. There's no left over oil or air that needed to be addressed. That's about 19 minutes more than I would have driven it. And most likely from oil being in the injector screw hole. Do as Hartwig showed, although I also use a cup brush.
If the injector came from oreillys, then it was not remanufactured BY Ford. The injector itself could also be the issue.
If the new IPR, ICP and EBP sensors are from Oreilly, and you get drivability issues, they can be suspect.
Aftermarket components don’t usually meet the same tolerances as OEM.
If the injector came from oreillys, then it was not remanufactured BY Ford. The injector itself could also be the issue.
If the new IPR, ICP and EBP sensors are from Oreilly, and you get drivability issues, they can be suspect.
Aftermarket components don’t usually meet the same tolerances as OEM.
it was the injector! I just switched out number six and four and now the problem is at four. Idk if I can get my money back. Where would you guys recommend getting an injector? Straight from dealership?
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