I posted this in a reply to my other thread but got no response. So I decided to make a new thread with this question. I have a 1979 F150. It has a 4 inch Rancho lift. Someone did it years ago, but all they did was change the springs and shocks. So I put new 7 degree C bushings in. A drop pitman arm and an adjustable trac bar. Also I changed the ball joints, radius arm bushings and the U joints at the wheels. With the new trac bar at it’s shortest setting, the passenger tire was sticking out a little more than the drivers side. So I took the trac bar apart and removed the locking nut in the middle so I could make it even shorter. When I did this the tires were even on both sides. I’m sure it should have the nut. But why do I need the trac bar so short? It’s from Bronco graveyard. Here are some pictures of my setup. I didn’t tighten the nuts on the trac bar yet.

 

Your track bar bracket on the frame side does not look stock. It's kind of hard to tell how much, but it looks like it drops the mounting point at least 1-2" (maybe more) which would help explain the adjustable track bar being too long.

 

It has factory dual shocks in the front and it mounts to the bottom of the shock tower.

 

I'm not sure if the track bar bracket would be different for a dual shock or not, but either way it looks like it hangs considerably lower below the frame than mine.

 

The track bar is lower from the frame than mine is ... but the drag link is dropped a bunch with that pitman arm so the track bar and drag link are swinging through two different arcs, it's going to bump steer on you. Even stock, my passenger side front tire stuck out 3/4" further than the driver's side did, so I made a 3/8" thick spacer to go between the track bar bracket and frame, it centered it dang near perfect. Stock track bar, stock bracket, stock '78-;79 pitman arm and tee type steering and my track bar and draglink are parallel, no bump steer.



Parallel yours ain't.

Mine is hanging on a lift in this picture, and the white line looks like it misses the track bar, but that because my track bar has the OEM bend in the axle end, so the line of actual bar direction would extend from bolt at axle to the bolt at the bracket end at the frame. It's pretty parallel with the drag link. Sitting on the ground, both the track bar and the drag link swing up to a more level position, but stay parallel. With yours, if the drag link were nearly level in a dip, the track bar would still be at a steeper angle. The two bars also are made the same lengths so they swing the same arc when stock. They look off set because the pitman arm is inside the frame from the track bar mount.



The closer you get the track bar and drag link to being parallel, the better the truck is gonna drive. My truck drives the same now as before I spaced that track bar mount out 3/8". I can see you either needing to drop the track bar at the frame end, but that's gonna make a longer lever of it working on the frame.in turns, etc. If mine, I'd be looking at extending the bracket and bracing it with a strut to the opposite frame rail. ... something like I drew in light blue.

 

Before I did anything it was more parallel than it is now. Everyone said I need a drop pitman arm and an adjustable trac bar. All those seem to do is make it worse.

 

They were right in concept, but not in actuality. You can use an adjustable trackbar to fine-tune your center position, but once you have a dropped pitman arm you must use a matching dropped trackbar bracket as well. And vice versa if you install a drop bracket you need a matching pitman arm. This is to do what was mentioned and keep the two bars parallel to each other like the factory had them originally.
They just forgot that aspect when recommending things to you. Or they did not know...

Not sure why the bar is so long, but it could be that you no longer have the amount of lift you did originally due to sag. And you should double check using the frame instead of the body. Yes, the body gives you the easiest visual of the axle being offset, but it's not always accurate due to damage or shifting.
I don't think the bodies really have that much shift potential in them since the body mounts hold them pretty tight, but it's still a better practice to use the frame.

A dropped trackbar bracket will get them parallel again, but might make your trackbar too long by an even larger amount. How is the threaded end built? Any room to cut the bar shorter? There is usually a ton of extra length on the adjustable eye end, but not sure how much female thread is there to work with.

Paul