I know this has been asked before
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More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2011
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I know this has been asked before
I am ready to block off the road drat tube on my 1955 f100. I am found that the filter was to tall and the bottom part of draft tube was out of round.So I deleted the gasket on the bottom and used rtv. But still had a leak.
so I am going to block it off. Nut my question is how do I make a clean and easy pvc system? Could I put a fitting on block off plate and run a 3/8 aluminum line to the base of my Holley? I have read some just drill a hole in the valve cover and put a pcv valve in it and run it to the carb base? I forgot I have a 292 y block. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Jerry
so I am going to block it off. Nut my question is how do I make a clean and easy pvc system? Could I put a fitting on block off plate and run a 3/8 aluminum line to the base of my Holley? I have read some just drill a hole in the valve cover and put a pcv valve in it and run it to the carb base? I forgot I have a 292 y block. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Jerry
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Yes it has:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-y-block.html
more of the same:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...onversion.html
Post 2, illustrations of a factory fix. Unfortunately, no NOS parts available, but it will give you a clear view of "how to".
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ock-292-a.html
Slightly different solution:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...2-y-block.html
You need to baffle the area where the PCV itself will be so you avoid direct oil splash or contact. And you need a source of clean air into the crankcase on the other side.
You'll figure it out. Good luck!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-y-block.html
more of the same:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...onversion.html
Post 2, illustrations of a factory fix. Unfortunately, no NOS parts available, but it will give you a clear view of "how to".
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ock-292-a.html
Slightly different solution:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...2-y-block.html
You need to baffle the area where the PCV itself will be so you avoid direct oil splash or contact. And you need a source of clean air into the crankcase on the other side.
You'll figure it out. Good luck!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
85e150 answered your questions, but I would emphasize the top of a valve cover is the best location for the PCV to exit and definitely baffle it. Pulling liquid oil into your intake rather than just vapor is bad news so the PCV needs to be up high. The last thing you want is to oil up your intake and spark plugs. An old engine with loose rings to cylinder seal can really create a lot of crankcase vapor. Keep an eye on your sparks plugs for excess oiling. This is a very common mod so don't be afraid to do it. I use a small catch can in the PCV line on high rpm performance engines and it works very well. They are inexpensive and easy to plumb but likely an unnecessary addition for you. At least until you have tried the simpler method.
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I agree with the mounting pcv valve in valve cover. I just wanted different ideas. Any suggestions for baffle on bottom of valve cover. Someone had posted that summit racing carries a baffle. And do you have pcv I should use?
thanks
jerry
thanks
jerry
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More Turbo
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I just read a post on jalopu journal. They described pcv mounting on passenger side valve cover
. They also showed how pcv valve was routed to base of carburetor. I am going to see if this will work. Sometimes I think to much. Paralysis by analysis
thanks
jerry
. They also showed how pcv valve was routed to base of carburetor. I am going to see if this will work. Sometimes I think to much. Paralysis by analysis
thanks
jerry
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
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From: Iowa
Just because I am familiar with them, a 90 degree PCV valve from pretty much any early 70s GM V8 would work. Probably the same valve that fits a lot of older Ford V8s as well. Rubber grommet for it available everywhere. Large enough to pull plenty of air. A 3/8" I.D. hose is perfect. Smaller can work if it has to. I don't know if you weld or not but it would be a half hour project for anyone you can find that does. A semi stout piece of sheet metal with a bend and tack it into the end of a valve cover after you get the valve located. The baffle just has to clear the rocker arms and you can do a little bodywork to the sheet metal baffle if you need to.
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More Turbo
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I was checking around and found this grommet with a internal baffles. It’s a Moroso 68772. I am going to see if it will fit under my valve cover. Can’t find dimensions on the web. But there is a place that sells them so I’m going to check it out.
thanks
jerry
thanks
jerry
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Post Fiend
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From: Iowa
Yes it does, but a baffle is needed and that is a much less convenient place to add one. Ford tried the back of the manifold trick with the 5.0. It was all good until an entire got some age to it and even with a baffle it was pretty common to oil down the inside of your intake and all the bad things that come with that soon enough.
Just saw on BJs thread one of his Y-block valley pans is baffled so that would work is O.P. is equipped. .
Just saw on BJs thread one of his Y-block valley pans is baffled so that would work is O.P. is equipped. .
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