When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So, I have a 1969 F250 CS that I am rescuing. The ignition switch, lock cylinder, and bezel nut are missing. I bought a parts store replacement switch and a new lock cylinder. The switch and plug are not the round pin style that caused problems. The issue I'm having is that the switch does not fit properly in the dash. The support bracket fits the switch fine but it doesn't hold it in the correct position. It appears as though it holds it too far rearward. Am I missing something or doing something wrong? Also, when I connect the plug to the switch and attempt to start it, it does nothing. Evidently I've got an issue with connectivity but that's a separate issue.
It's "relatively" straightforward on this site. But it's not like the other sites I'm not regularly, so still takes me some time to re-think uploading images.
Just click on the "go advanced' button below, then you'll see something like "manage attachments" at the lower left I think? Click on that and in the dialog box you'll see prompts like upload from your device and stuff like that. You have to go through a few extra steps, such as clicking on "upload" each time after you've chosen one image and stuff like that. But it does work, so I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Took most of us a little brain power when they made changes to the system a couple of times over the last couple of years.
You mentioned it would not crank the starter, but do other accessories work, like the heater and turn signals? If so, then you know you have power to the switch and power out to those accessories.
The Red w/blue stripe wire is your starter relay energizing wire. In a '69 it might run straight to the starter relay/solenoid on the fender, Or it might go through a connector near the firewall behind the engine. Depends on whether automatic transmissions were a regular option (I think they were) or not. In which case there is either a Neutral-Safety Switch connector behind the engine. Would have the switch on the transmission in later years, but pretty sure your '69 would have had the NSS on the lower end of the steering column under the dash.
And that switch is a very common failure point on these trucks.
If you have a manual trans, I'm not sure how they bypass that switch area, or if they do. Maybe a short jumper wire like they did when the connector was under the hood? Or just a wire straight from the ignition switch to the starter relay? Lots of experts here on that subject and they'll be able to tell you.
Basically though you need to get 12v on that Red w/blue wire at the starter relay. You can find the wire and remove it from the left-side small terminal on the relay (often marked with an "S" for "switch" or "start") by pulling it off. Have someone turn the key to START and measure for 12v with your meter or test light. A light won't tell you the actual voltage, but if it's a bright light you know you're at least close. If dim, then you have a problem upstream on that wire.
You can easily test the relay too, but make sure you have power on that wire first.
And during all this starter testing, make sure your trans is in neutral or park! It's quite a surprise when after some fiddling you get the starter to crank and it trys to roll over your foot and through the garage wall!
I went out and took a fresh look at the ignition parts yesterday evening and now have the new ignition switch, lock cylinder/key, and bezel nut installed properly. Thanks everyone. Still need to trace wires and all but at least I'm this far.
I went out and took a fresh look at the ignition parts yesterday evening and now have the new ignition switch, lock cylinder/key, and bezel nut installed properly. Thanks everyone. Still need to trace wires and all but at least I'm this far.
https://fordification.com/tech/wirin...9charging2.jpg
Note the wire marked circuit #37 connected to the starter solenoid. Black with yellow stripe. That is what powers the ignition switch. Make sure it is there and good.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.