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1969 f250 ignition switch

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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 09:58 AM
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1969 f250 ignition switch

So, I have a 1969 F250 CS that I am rescuing. The ignition switch, lock cylinder, and bezel nut are missing. I bought a parts store replacement switch and a new lock cylinder. The switch and plug are not the round pin style that caused problems. The issue I'm having is that the switch does not fit properly in the dash. The support bracket fits the switch fine but it doesn't hold it in the correct position. It appears as though it holds it too far rearward. Am I missing something or doing something wrong? Also, when I connect the plug to the switch and attempt to start it, it does nothing. Evidently I've got an issue with connectivity but that's a separate issue.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 11:51 AM
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What's the part number on the box? Post a couple of photos of the switch so we can see it.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 09:21 AM
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The switch is LS302 from local parts store. Everything seems to mate up just fine, though it is simply too far inside the dash.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 10:02 AM
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Look here. Dashboard Components (lmctruck.com) Do you have item # 11? If so, are you positioning it as in picture?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 10:05 AM
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Yes. I just can't figure out what the difference is.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 10:31 AM
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It could be a 'wrong part in the right box' problem.

Post pics of the switch in and out of the dash.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 10:32 AM
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I'll take some pics this evening but I don't know how to post them. I'll try to figure it out.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 12:41 PM
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It's "relatively" straightforward on this site. But it's not like the other sites I'm not regularly, so still takes me some time to re-think uploading images.
Just click on the "go advanced' button below, then you'll see something like "manage attachments" at the lower left I think? Click on that and in the dialog box you'll see prompts like upload from your device and stuff like that. You have to go through a few extra steps, such as clicking on "upload" each time after you've chosen one image and stuff like that. But it does work, so I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Took most of us a little brain power when they made changes to the system a couple of times over the last couple of years.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 12:48 PM
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You mentioned it would not crank the starter, but do other accessories work, like the heater and turn signals? If so, then you know you have power to the switch and power out to those accessories.
The Red w/blue stripe wire is your starter relay energizing wire. In a '69 it might run straight to the starter relay/solenoid on the fender, Or it might go through a connector near the firewall behind the engine. Depends on whether automatic transmissions were a regular option (I think they were) or not. In which case there is either a Neutral-Safety Switch connector behind the engine. Would have the switch on the transmission in later years, but pretty sure your '69 would have had the NSS on the lower end of the steering column under the dash.
And that switch is a very common failure point on these trucks.

If you have a manual trans, I'm not sure how they bypass that switch area, or if they do. Maybe a short jumper wire like they did when the connector was under the hood? Or just a wire straight from the ignition switch to the starter relay? Lots of experts here on that subject and they'll be able to tell you.
Basically though you need to get 12v on that Red w/blue wire at the starter relay. You can find the wire and remove it from the left-side small terminal on the relay (often marked with an "S" for "switch" or "start") by pulling it off. Have someone turn the key to START and measure for 12v with your meter or test light. A light won't tell you the actual voltage, but if it's a bright light you know you're at least close. If dim, then you have a problem upstream on that wire.

You can easily test the relay too, but make sure you have power on that wire first.
And during all this starter testing, make sure your trans is in neutral or park! It's quite a surprise when after some fiddling you get the starter to crank and it trys to roll over your foot and through the garage wall!

Paul
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 12:52 PM
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Nothing seems to be getting power.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2021 | 12:53 PM
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I suppose I'm going to have to start at the battery and trace every wire to the starter, ignition, and alternator.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2021 | 07:57 AM
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I went out and took a fresh look at the ignition parts yesterday evening and now have the new ignition switch, lock cylinder/key, and bezel nut installed properly. Thanks everyone. Still need to trace wires and all but at least I'm this far.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2021 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by glennmay
I went out and took a fresh look at the ignition parts yesterday evening and now have the new ignition switch, lock cylinder/key, and bezel nut installed properly. Thanks everyone. Still need to trace wires and all but at least I'm this far.
Great news.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2021 | 02:30 PM
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https://fordification.com/tech/wirin...9charging2.jpg
Note the wire marked circuit #37 connected to the starter solenoid. Black with yellow stripe. That is what powers the ignition switch. Make sure it is there and good.
 
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