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When I first got my vehicle if I let it sit for a couple days it wouldnt start. It didnt have any problems when I was running it every day. A friend suggested that it might be my return lines loosing pressure. After looking at them they desperately needed to be replaced. After replacing them I now have a new issue. The vehicle will fire right up and run well for 2-4ish minutes. It will then loose power and rev up doing that cycle a couple times then dies out. If i crack a couple injector lines and bleed the system I can get it started again. I havent been driving it much as im doing some work on it but now its to the point that I had it running yesterday and it died just a few moments ago. Im not sure if its the dash gauges or the sensors but I also have no oil pressure and I suspect my coolant temp sensor might also be faulty. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You're getting air in the system. Check your return lines. If it sits a few days then no start, the fuel is draining back to the tank. And you're running on the fuel in the pump and filter. Check the hard line coming from the lift pump to the filter head. Also the fuel heater on the top of the filter housing is known to leak air.. What year is this? Put it in your sig.
I looked to update my signature but I think im too young to do it "Welcome to FTE, the largest Ford-Truck site on the Internet. To access certain features of this site, such as Private Messages, Signatures, our Classifieds section you need to make at least 5 posts on our forum, and have been a member for at least 10 days." I will totally update it when im cool enough to do so. I have a 1987 f350 ambulance. It has a 6.9 idi engine with a C6 3 speed automatic transmission. I have a front and rear tank. It is a ambulance made by wheeled coach that has the ambulance package. I dont know what all that entails but it has a bigger alternator than the normal vehicle. I have the manual from wheeled coach. It barely mentions the fuel system as best as I can tell (thick ragged manual). How would you suggest I check the hard lines? I will take a look in the morning and try to find the lift pump and fuel heater. Ive also been reading and I think I need to look at the water fuel separator. I tried to drain it after I discovered water in my fuel filter. I tried to drain it by pulling the cable but nothing happened. I did drain both tanks and added new fuel with a fuel cleaner which significantly helped. Not with this problem but just in general performance.
Ack. Don't pull that chain. You should bypass the water separator on the firewall. That's your air leak now. On my old 87, I did that and it stuck open. I totally forgot about that thing. I should have clarified what I was saying. HArd line we talk about here usuall mean the steel lines going from the pump to the injectors.The fuel line coming up from the lift pump to the filter head is a hard line(steel) . The line going to the filter head to the IP is also steel. Those two lines have what you call olives on them, and they act like the rubber washer on a water hose. Over time loosening and tightening flatten them out and they leak. You can bypass the water separator and get a fuel filter with a water separator built in. That's a van setup, correct?
Where were you when I was about to foolishly pull the chain. Im gonna get that unit pulled out hopefully this week. What filter are you using with the added water seperator. No It has a truck body.
I'm not running a water separator right now. Racor or Wix make them. That truck is clean. You can make a nice camper with that. Fill the filter with fuel when you change it out. Invest in a remote starter and make a 4 ft jumper with alligator clips. You can bleed the lines or start the truck without getting in it. jumper is for the fuel shutoff switch.
When I bought the 86 250, the separator rubber hoses were looped together.
I guess the prior owner had an air intrusion problem with it.
I deep 6`ed the filter assembly and added a Racor FG-500 in that area.
There is 3 micron filter elements it takes, 2, 10 and 30 micron, Iam using
the 2 micron. Also has a large water/gunk trap on the bottom which has a
drain valve.
I have used the smaller FG-200 on my Datsun Diesel and Mercedes Diesels
for years. Amazing the crud it catches which is in the clean pump fuel
we buy.
If you replace the steel line from the Filter to Injection pump with a rubber
push lock hose and some fittings, you eliminate the olive seals and possible
air leaks.
