Hi, Here are the pics,
I scrounged the material for this. The length of the solid bar is 26". Nothing sacred here, length wise. I chose a solid bar b/c the sudden stop makes for lots of force
If you have sq. solid bar, that is ok. When I put the tool on the axel flange, I am sure to put it all the way against the axel flange. Then put the flat side of the lug nut on the threads and tighten the lug nut nice and snug. This is to insure that the threads are not damaged.
This will work for you. All the best, Pete

 

Pete - thanks!

Red60 - I think it was rust, but was not totally obvious.

 

Glad to help, when you make the slide, would you send me a pic?

 

So this is what I got so far grabbing some stuff hanging around the shop. Piece of 5/8 threaded rod, cut a plate for the end, old maul head with a broken handle that I drilled out and a bracket to bolt on the axel. The offset on the bracket isn't enough for a nut on the end of the threaded rod and to catch 2 of the lug bolts, so I will need to do some bending of it to make it work. Ran out of time tonight. Hopefully it will work....

 

Hi Danno5, I like your ability to take what is"waiting for a new job" and looks like you are well on your way to making a new tool. You'll be able to make it work, I am sure. Thank you for showing me what you are making. All the best, Pete

 

Hey Danno5, It just occured to me...could you clamp the other end instead of bending it to make the hole in the part line up with a bolt??

 

Watch your fingers with that contraption. There are some pinch points and I have hurt myself with a store-bought unit.

 

Hi Danno5,
Thunderkiss1965 is exactly right about pinch points. Your tool requires that it be held firmly on the axel. It is going to mean that the maul be held with both hands. Wearing gloves would be a good thing. You will find that with the tool firmly attached to the axel...use two hands to hold the maul...the maul needs to hit the plate on the end in an even manner....a higher percentage of the stopping force will then be applied to the plate on the end. If, the maul wobbles when it stops at the plate on the end...some of the force will be lost. You see, the mauls' large dia. handle hole is a weak part of the tool. You can overcome this by using two hands and make the maul "land" on the end plate as squarely as you can. By holding the maul with both hands...a "stroke" of 12"-18" should be about right. I say those distances b/c the 5/8" all thread will flex if you start the "stroke" at the axel, ( looseing some of the "stopping" ability with the flexing). By restricting the mauls' movement to the end...you will be getting closer to 100% of the force the tool can deliver.
Thinking a little more on your tool...you must be holding the end plate on with flatwashers and nuts? The mauls' force will be deflected (wasted) by hitting the nut & flt wshr. Do you have a 5/8" NC (National Course) tap? (is the all thread NC?). The hole in the end plate (can use the same plate, move the new holes' location a little left/right of the length). You'll need to buy a 17/32" drill bit to run a 5/8 NC" tap though. If you have to buy a drill & tap...for your tool, you can save them for another application later in your life. Don't need a tap wrench. a 6" crescent wrench works. You will also need tap-thread cutting oil, use lots of oil,,.( I put card board or a newspaper underneath to keep the excess oil from making a mess later).
Regular 10W30 will not "cut it" Pun intended here. Ace hardware sells drills, taps & thread cutting oil. Not much of an investment, really.
By removing the nut & flt wshr...you will gain back the lost force that they would have made.
If you drill & tape a hole, doing so with the hole verticle...the chances for a sq. set of threads is higher than if the hole to be taped is horizontal). It would be insurance to put a flt wshr & nut on the very end of the all thread. Hope this helps, Pete