Removing the driveshaft
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2020
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Removing the driveshaft
I have a 66 F-100 with a SWB. I disconnected the driveshaft at the rear end and tried to pull it off the splines. I can pull/push a couple of inches, but I will not come all the way off. Do I need to disconnect the universal joint at the transmission, or should it come off the splines? Any tricks to this task?
Of course the next challenge is removing the brake drums. The PO replaced them a couple of years ago - I want to replace the rear end gasket and fluid - but they will not budge. Lots of penetrating oil, taps with the hammer, etc., and they havent moved a bit!
Of course the next challenge is removing the brake drums. The PO replaced them a couple of years ago - I want to replace the rear end gasket and fluid - but they will not budge. Lots of penetrating oil, taps with the hammer, etc., and they havent moved a bit!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 146
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From: Ms.
I would use a large screwdriver or something similar to wedge between the rear u-joint and the rear end. Use the extra leverage to push the driveshaft a little farther into the rear of the transmission. This should make it easier to drop the driveshaft from the rearend. You then just slide the the front of the driveshaft out of the transmission.
The brake drums may be grooved and need to be turned. This may be causing the brake drum to not come off. Sometimes you need to back off of the brake adjusting screw with a brake tool or screwdriver. This adjusting screw is accessed through a hole on the lower part of the backing plate.
The brake drums may be grooved and need to be turned. This may be causing the brake drum to not come off. Sometimes you need to back off of the brake adjusting screw with a brake tool or screwdriver. This adjusting screw is accessed through a hole on the lower part of the backing plate.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2018
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My 66 F100 had the same problem removing the hubs. I finally pulled the axels and hubs a a unit and then had them pressed off. Apparently the lugs were holding them on. I tried for days to beat them off with penetrating oil and a sledge hammer, those things would not move. Maybe that's how it is supposed to be.
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Actually have the e-brake cables disconnected, and I did back them off...thanks! Ridealong and Christmas - the PO replaced the brakes about 2 years and 1000 miles ago, so I don't think they would be grooved in that time period. I hope I don't have to remove the axel to get these off! Not too encouraging....
With regards to the driveshaft - I was able to remove the end at the rear end with the u-joint - it is coming off the splines that is an issue. It is sounding like a plunger as I slide it back and forth - and acting like there is a stop of some type that is preventing removal. All else fails I can remove the u-joint at the transmission.
thanks for the advice!
With regards to the driveshaft - I was able to remove the end at the rear end with the u-joint - it is coming off the splines that is an issue. It is sounding like a plunger as I slide it back and forth - and acting like there is a stop of some type that is preventing removal. All else fails I can remove the u-joint at the transmission.
thanks for the advice!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,899
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From: Southern California
On the driveshaft, Keep plungering it, might be some crud built up. If that doesn't work, Find a steel rod that will slip through the u-joint area and reach up to the bottom of the bed to pry it out, OR grab the shaft with some large channellocks or chain wrench vise grips and tap the pliers with a hammer towards the rear.
As to the drums, a couple sharp raps with a 2-3# hammer at the axle flange, between the studs usually works. If not move out to the edge of the drum with the hammer, but only hit it on the wheel side. If you hit it from the back it will break a piece off. Another trick I have used is to drill a few small holes through the drum at the axle flange to allow penetrant to get in. And finally, heat in the same area.
As to the drums, a couple sharp raps with a 2-3# hammer at the axle flange, between the studs usually works. If not move out to the edge of the drum with the hammer, but only hit it on the wheel side. If you hit it from the back it will break a piece off. Another trick I have used is to drill a few small holes through the drum at the axle flange to allow penetrant to get in. And finally, heat in the same area.
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thanks Thunderkiss - I will try the channel locks trick and see if that works. I have been plungering it with no success
I saw a youtube video where a person welded up a frame to be able to use a small hydraulic jack as a puller for the brake drums. I have tried the hammering and prying approach with pb blaster (including waiting a day or 2 after spraying). I dont want to spring for a $100-150 puller that was the cheapest I could find on the internet....
I saw a youtube video where a person welded up a frame to be able to use a small hydraulic jack as a puller for the brake drums. I have tried the hammering and prying approach with pb blaster (including waiting a day or 2 after spraying). I dont want to spring for a $100-150 puller that was the cheapest I could find on the internet....
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,899
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From: Southern California
thanks Thunderkiss - I will try the channel locks trick and see if that works. I have been plungering it with no success
I saw a youtube video where a person welded up a frame to be able to use a small hydraulic jack as a puller for the brake drums. I have tried the hammering and prying approach with pb blaster (including waiting a day or 2 after spraying). I dont want to spring for a $100-150 puller that was the cheapest I could find on the internet....
I saw a youtube video where a person welded up a frame to be able to use a small hydraulic jack as a puller for the brake drums. I have tried the hammering and prying approach with pb blaster (including waiting a day or 2 after spraying). I dont want to spring for a $100-150 puller that was the cheapest I could find on the internet....
I have had to loosen the lugnuts and drive around the lot to break loose wheels frozen to the hubs. EVERYTHING comes apart eventually!
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 340
Likes: 21
From: Weaverville NC
Hi Danno5,
If I could suggest something?...If you'd take some electrical tape and wrap it completely around the end of the drive shaft, wrap the 2 cups that are exposed, I mean. Then they won't come off. If one or more comes off...those little round rods that are inside (if they get lost ) spoil the whole repair. A suggestion is all. You are doing fine. Like your cool press to take off the drum.
Does your local auto parts store rent tools? What you need as a slide hammer to get the axels out.
All the best, Pete
If I could suggest something?...If you'd take some electrical tape and wrap it completely around the end of the drive shaft, wrap the 2 cups that are exposed, I mean. Then they won't come off. If one or more comes off...those little round rods that are inside (if they get lost ) spoil the whole repair. A suggestion is all. You are doing fine. Like your cool press to take off the drum.
Does your local auto parts store rent tools? What you need as a slide hammer to get the axels out.
All the best, Pete
Last edited by peter sipp; Jun 12, 2021 at 04:30 PM. Reason: added needed words
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 340
Likes: 21
From: Weaverville NC
Hi Danno5, Oh you are welcome for sure. Could I make another suggestion...?...To keep a pocket sized log book. One where the pages turn left to right. I have done this. See after a number of years go by...without a record...you will wonder..."what did I replace the time the drums were stuck on ???" I write the date and miles down. Hope you can find a puller. If you want to make one...being that you made the way cool drum puller. You could. I did that. I can send a pic if you'd like. All the best, Pete
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2019
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slide hammer is even easier to fabricate than the hydraulic puller you made! Go for it
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Freshman User
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Hi Danno5, Oh you are welcome for sure. Could I make another suggestion...?...To keep a pocket sized log book. One where the pages turn left to right. I have done this. See after a number of years go by...without a record...you will wonder..."what did I replace the time the drums were stuck on ???" I write the date and miles down. Hope you can find a puller. If you want to make one...being that you made the way cool drum puller. You could. I did that. I can send a pic if you'd like. All the best, Pete
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 340
Likes: 21
From: Weaverville NC
Hi Danno5,
Okay, I need to wait for my wife to wake up. She knows about sending pics. That's not something I can do. It'll be in the early afternoon. Sunday she sleeps in.
Yesterday, when I suggested a log book, I said a notebook that turns left to right b/c my first log book is the kind where the metal spiral is on the "top." That book is 41 yrs old now. When I refer to it, some of the pages are torn, it is ackward to keep the pages in order. Any-who...a logbook is a selling feature too. The next owner will really appreciate the dates/mileage records. ( it's a $ maker for you).
All righty then, all the best, Pete
Okay, I need to wait for my wife to wake up. She knows about sending pics. That's not something I can do. It'll be in the early afternoon. Sunday she sleeps in.
Yesterday, when I suggested a log book, I said a notebook that turns left to right b/c my first log book is the kind where the metal spiral is on the "top." That book is 41 yrs old now. When I refer to it, some of the pages are torn, it is ackward to keep the pages in order. Any-who...a logbook is a selling feature too. The next owner will really appreciate the dates/mileage records. ( it's a $ maker for you).
All righty then, all the best, Pete