AC Issues at 50k miles
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AC Issues at 50k miles
Trying to diagnose my AC. 2013 XLT 3.7L with ~50k miles on it. AC just blows warm air, switching to heat blows very warm air in the cabin.
Hooked up a set of gauges, 98 low/ 95-100 high on a 83F day. Engine bay was a bit warm too from driving today.
Checking the clutch, I see it snap back and engages when the AC button is on, it never shuts off unless you shut off the AC. Engine off and it rotates freely.
Pressures don't change, maybe the high side kind of moves like 1 or 2 points on the gauge. Low side doesn't budge.
Both high and low lines are warm, but also I drove it before the gauges showed up today.
AC has never been worked on, single owner and I've never added any refrigerant to the system.
Used these gauges on our 2010 Fusion since it as about 10oz low so the gauges do read correctly.
It seems unlikely that the whole compressor has gone bad at 50k miles, but I'm looking for other things to try before I find somewhere to evac it and replace the whole compressor.
Hooked up a set of gauges, 98 low/ 95-100 high on a 83F day. Engine bay was a bit warm too from driving today.
Checking the clutch, I see it snap back and engages when the AC button is on, it never shuts off unless you shut off the AC. Engine off and it rotates freely.
Pressures don't change, maybe the high side kind of moves like 1 or 2 points on the gauge. Low side doesn't budge.
Both high and low lines are warm, but also I drove it before the gauges showed up today.
AC has never been worked on, single owner and I've never added any refrigerant to the system.
Used these gauges on our 2010 Fusion since it as about 10oz low so the gauges do read correctly.
It seems unlikely that the whole compressor has gone bad at 50k miles, but I'm looking for other things to try before I find somewhere to evac it and replace the whole compressor.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,950
Likes: 5,076
Hi Jart,
You don't have nearly enough pressure on the high side, nor enough separation between the high and low side(s).
My first test would be the clutch. It's possible that the clutch is bad. My second test would be system coolant level.
Can you engage the clutch (with the engine and belt off) and turn the A/C pulley? If the A/C system is properly pressurized and the clutch fully engaged, you won't be able to do much. This test should give you an idea on the clutch.
If the clutch is bad, you might as well change the clutch and compressor. The labor's about the same and the incremental cost of the compressor (over just the clutch) is well worth it on a 50,000 mile (8 year) compressor.
You don't have nearly enough pressure on the high side, nor enough separation between the high and low side(s).
My first test would be the clutch. It's possible that the clutch is bad. My second test would be system coolant level.
Can you engage the clutch (with the engine and belt off) and turn the A/C pulley? If the A/C system is properly pressurized and the clutch fully engaged, you won't be able to do much. This test should give you an idea on the clutch.
If the clutch is bad, you might as well change the clutch and compressor. The labor's about the same and the incremental cost of the compressor (over just the clutch) is well worth it on a 50,000 mile (8 year) compressor.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
Nothing wrong with your blend door.
Your compressor isn't compressing, That's why the high and low pressures are the same.
WHAT exactly rotates freely? The pulley, the clutch hub, the shaft....??
Your compressor isn't compressing, That's why the high and low pressures are the same.
Engine off and it rotates freely.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: 0,0,1
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Side note is do most people do an AC flush of the lines when they swap out a compressor and condenser or just vac the thing? Not the line from the condenser to the evaporator since that seems to have something in it that you don't want to mess with?
*I didn't fully understand how the clutch hub works when I first posted. When I said the engine off the clutch hub spins freely I got it mixed up with a PCM self test that can engage it.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
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dont jump the clutch... you said it has power and pulls in... question is if the gap closes and the compressor engages and spins... either the clutch is not engaging or the compressor is not pumping... 100 psi HI and LOW is about full charge... just not pumping.
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To put an end to the thread, ordered the parts (compressor, condenser, valve, flush kit). New compressor came shipped with oil and I can already tell a huge difference compared to the old compressor. Once I got the old compressor off you can almost spin the clutch way too easy with not a lot of noises from the inside of the old pump. Must have been a bad batch or WFH killed it early or something.. Pulled the lines, flushed, replaced the seals(added some oil first), ruined a few of the body clips. The flex belt was terrible but managed to zip tie the crankshaft side and got a lip of the belt on and turned everything until it seated. Hooked up a vacuum pump for about 50 minutes and it got close to -30. Checked again in the morning and it's still at a vacuum. Now waiting on the shop to let me swing it by to properly fill it just in time for summer!
Also should have bought some female torx sockets before starting this.
Also should have bought some female torx sockets before starting this.
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