Radius arm bushings
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 71
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From: Greensburg, PA
Radius arm bushings
How difficult is it to change the radius arm bushings on my 89? I have a slight knock under the floor, and all signs point to the dry rotted bushings. Any hints or tips? Are the urethane better than the rubber in this application? Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: Wallaceburg On.
Radius arm bushings
Just did mine on a 79 f100. I suppose it would be the same as mine. Take the large 1 1/8 nut off the rear. Jack truck up on the frame until wheel is off the ground. You will need a helper to pull forward on the wheel which will pull the radius arm through the bracket. Remove all the rubber bushing (with a torch if neccessary) Slide the new ones on tighten it up and your done. I found getting the nut off to be the most time consuming part of the whole process, Get the poly ones if you can. the rubber tend to soak up any power steering fluid or oil thay may land there.
There was a thread on this subject about a month ago on the 73 79 truck page. Good luck
There was a thread on this subject about a month ago on the 73 79 truck page. Good luck
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 158
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I too would use the poly ones I have a couple of broncos with them and haven't noticed any problems. As far as just pulling the wheel forward you can't do that with a TTB setup. If you don't have a lift then you can jack the frame up to were the front tire is just resting on the ground , remove the nut on the radius arm, cut off the rivets holding the bracket on the frame. Replace the bushings and then bolt the bracket back on with grade 8 bolts. If you don't want do cut off the bracket then you will have to remove the axle pivot bolts on each side to have enougth room to remove the bushings.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 71
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From: Greensburg, PA
Is the cutting rivets method pretty standard? I did some research, and there was someone on another site that also did it that way. Will I need re-aligned after this? Just spend $200 to get the cam bushings replaced and aligned.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
No, you shouldn't need a re-align with radius arm bushings. Just make sure that everything is nice and snug and secure when you are done. The odd thing about the rivets is that depending on the model year, sometimes you won't have rivets at all sometimes you will have rivets on one side....its just wierd. But all in all, thats the easiest replacement method.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 3
From: Bismarck, ND
One more tip on the rivets..... if you cut or grind the the heads off flush, you may still have a tough time popping them out with a hammer and punch. Solution: center punch the rivet body (at the center), and use a smaller diameter drill bit to drill out the core. Then knock them out. Just removing this small amount of material from the center made the difference for me in getting mine out versus no chance. If you go this route, you're set for life on changing out the radius arm bushings - just unbolt the brackets in the future. (As noted, do use grade 8 bolts.)
I'll cast my vote for the poly bushings. I've been nothing but happy with the set I put on my '85 (ditto for the poly axle pivot bushing, the poly sway bar bushings, the poly body mounts, and the poly leaf spring eye bushings!
I'll cast my vote for the poly bushings. I've been nothing but happy with the set I put on my '85 (ditto for the poly axle pivot bushing, the poly sway bar bushings, the poly body mounts, and the poly leaf spring eye bushings!
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 71
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From: Greensburg, PA
Is a oxy/propane torch a better choice over drilling out the rivets? Where can I get new nuts for the end of the radius arm? I'll bet that mine break coming off. Thanks for all the help, I'll have to order the parts, and then give this a try!
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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You shouldn't break them , but if they are that bad be careful not to damage the threads on the arm. If you need new nuts you should be able to get them at any iron supply or hardware store that sells nuts and bolts . make sure you buy a high grade and lock nut.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
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From: Wheatland, Mo
Problem with using a cutting torch, you can heat the metal on the frame and the braket and screw up the temperment of the metal. Also, you can accidentally remove some metal from the frame or the braket and then really be screwed. Best to drill out the center and knock out the rest.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 0
From: SE Texas
I'm with the other folks on using a grinder to remove the rivets instead of a torch. Someone had used a torch on my 84 before I got it and messed up the brackets to where I couldn't use them with a lift kit. Sort of wallowed out the bolt holes too much. It's easy enough to grind off the rivet heads, then drill them out. Ues plenty of WD-40 or penetrating oil on the end bolts. As for the bushings, I recommend the poly urethane if you plan to keep the Bronco for a few years, the firmness of the ride can be handled with shocks.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 628
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From: Colorado
I went the shortcut method and had a shop do it about two years ago - and once again have found the old addage to be true -"if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself". Now, less than two years later - I hear that telltale nocking under my feet. They used rubber, by the way... at least both of my brackets are bolted. This time I'll trust it to somebody who'll do it right - me.
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