You are right; the starter rotation of the engine is slow even for a 6.0 starter, either battery charge or the starter. I didn't want to pile on. However, if he tightens the timeframe to the initial combustion takeover at 0:34-0:35, it still sounds like every 6.0.

And yeah, after the comments, I was primed. "Video, as demanded," followed by "I would trust his judgment over anyone here," didn't help. WTF.

Somebody needs to learn what "Wait to Start" means, too.

 

Most of the time now (since retirement) my truck driving time is spent on shorter trips. I occasionally hear the start-up "cadence change" and I know that it is time to do a manual charge on the batteries. After doing major engine work, often times the batteries get weakened due to multiple starts. We hear it a lot on the forums, especially after work on the high pressure oil system where a significant amount of cranking is often times required. Nothing for him to to get particularly excited about, but certainly a prompt for battery charging (and perhaps testing). At some point I am going to have to install the 6.4L starter that I have, but my original starter just keeps on going.

Hopefully the OP will be appreciative of the folks telling him that he doesn't have a glow plug issue, or a lifter issue..................

 

I've never experienced a cadence change such as that based on voltage of the batteries, but they are usually topped off well with the trips to the farm or if sitting, charged up. Thanks for that Mark.

 

Seems as good a place as any for this post.

According to the PC/ED manual (pages 1-28 and 1-29):

"The wait-to-start indicator on-time is controlled by the PCM and is independent from the GPCM on-time".

"The GPIL (glow plug indicator lamp) is used to inform the the operator when the engine is ready to be started. ..... The on-time normally varies from 1-10 seconds and is independent of the glow plug relay on-time. As a prove-out, the indicator is commanded on at every key cycle even though the glow plug system may not be required."

 

Thanks Mark!

 

Thanks Jack. I can recall a thread that got a tad bit emotional ........... An expert on alternators got a little incensed at a comment that I made. I said that a vehicle alternator can be a poor battery charger. His point (a valid enough one) was that that is what the alternator is there for. My point (one that he missed) was that the alternator will not adequately charge batteries if the proper "drive time" is not achieved (let alone do any "de-sulfating"). There is a place and time for manual charging!! Anyway, I need to do more than short trips! Driving only for short trips is hard on these engines in multiple ways (not just battery charging)!

 

Had I made that comment to you?

BTW. I don't consider myself an expert on alternators.

 

Absolutely not you!!! TBH, I can't recall the forum name of the person - it happened a long time ago.

 

Sorry - I'm still wired from this post this morning. I'll be like this all day.

I was going to apologize to you if I said and did something that stupid.

 

This is more what I was hoping for, and It is my fault for not posting a video - I just didn't have one to post yet. The short knock I hear from 0:33-0:35 is normal on cold start? I have been listening to videos to see if I could detect it but, for the most part, the videos all sound smoother than mine.
Batteries were on my list - though I did not know about the cadence. They have just been moved up the list. The batteries in it are 650 CCA, I am thinking about putting 1000CCA batteries in it do to the cold weather up here. What is common?
As for the FICM, thank you for the insight. I will keep an eye on it. The voltage on the FICM is 47.5 which I thought was a little low but was not high on my list because the scanner listed normal between 46 and 50 - should it be higher on the list?
Are there other things I should be looking out for on a new build?

I do appreciate the insight and I also apologize if I seem to come on a bit strong to you all. I chalk it up to the area I am raised, here we are blunt and to the point. Though, as you all have noted, I have been told my texts are often misinterpreted as hostile. Personally, I have learned not to judge a person based on a text or email and I am sorry you take it that way, it is not and was not intended.

That said, this is the first PS that I have rebuilt (I have done a Duramax and a Cummins before). and I do need the advice.

 

That is good to know. I will keep an ear out for the changing rhythm. My original starter would probably still be going also, had I not double tapped the ignition- I flinched while starting. Took a chance on a new Autozone Gold unit. It sounds like it is spinning fast and the truck fires right off. Hope I can keep my fast fingers in check and it may last a while.

 

Well, I guess not.

 

Obviously, from the opinions expressed, I am bad at posting. I will try to limit myself to just searching and try not to bother anyone.
Again, I don't know how many times I have to say this, I apologize and thank you all for your information. I wish you all the best.

 

I hope you do well with your truck. People, including myself, can write things differently than they would talk to a person. Asking for advice but being dismissive doesn't set a good tone for the conversation.

 

The long time expert posters on this forum put in a lot of time/thought into helping strangers out of some tough and often times expensive situations. Really for nothing more than just being a helpful person. These guys have helped hundreds/ thousands? After seeing many of the same scenarios they have become streamlined and expedient in their approaches, in my opinion. This is done to get to the root of a problem fast without all the back and forth. Searching the forum prior to asking helps tremendously.
Anyway, cooperation goes a long way. Texting/writing is often taken the wrong way due to not being in the same room. Please remember these are helpful human beings on the other end of the line- not a computer program.