Hello, I have a 1996 F-350 7.5L V8 dually uhaul box truck, with an E40D transmission, I rebuilt the transmission with a new solenoid pack, tourque converter, valve bodies, mlps, solenoid pack wiring harness connector and now it has a different problem than before the rebuild, now it doesn't like going into reverse unless I give it gas then it is a hard shift into reverse until it gets low in RPM then no reverse. While driving down the road the gears are really slow to shift and the engine revvs really high, after a while of driving like that the engine starts getting hot and a check engine light comes on but I only have an obd2 scanner.

It seemed to work fine right after the rebuild but then I parked it and notice it was leaking oil so I took the engine out of the truck and redid all the seals and gaskets also during that time I redid the solenoid pack harness, i think that is the problem but I found multiple diagrams showing the same order as mine and I made sure to do it one wire at a time and I checked for continuity all the way up to the connects on the fender well. I am completely lost, I have put more money into fixing this truck than I paid for it.

Also my speedometer doesn't work and my abs light comes on (I don't believe I have abs?). So I replaced the wheel speed sensor in the back and it still doesn't work, I am not sure if this relates to the transmission in anyway? Any comments are greatly appreciated.

I forgot to mention that the engine does a weird twitching clicking thing that gets worse with gas and driving, it shudders a little bit which makes a clcik sound and it does this sporadically, the frequency seems to depend on temperature where warmer causes less clicks.

Also the fluid level, right now it is in the top half of the cross hatched area that is while running but shortly after turning it off it doubles it height on the stick and it was even leaking out of the dipstick tube, the short part that sticks out the trans pan, i put plumbers tape around it and now it doesn't leak, but that is that normal for it to be so high when turned off? Maybe it is over filled but doesn't show it while running?

Also while filling the tranny with the truck on I was checking the shifting after every cup of fluid and when the stick read low to no fluid, reverse worked, it went into reverse after a couple of seconds without me pressing the gas. Then i filldd it up to the normal level and it stopped working and required gas.


 

Get your EEC codes. You dont need a scan tool, you need a paper clip. Check the forums on how to get your trouble codes. Its important to get your speedo working. The ecu looks at the tach, speedo, and throttle position sensor carefully to determine shift points and line-pressure. It doesnt quite explain the reverse problem but I believe the shift-lever position sensor has something to do with that. Im guessing that with all the work you did, a power or ground wire got broken and now nothing is happy.

 

yours should be 3 digit codes-->Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Fuel Injection Technical Library » 3 Digit Self-test Codes 111-171

 

Those issues sound like a problem with the direct clutch. I think you have a damaged seal in that clutch.

 

Just a heads up to everyone I live an hour away from the truck so I need to find time to get there. So I am going to compile a list with everyones ideas and test them in bulk and report the findings. I appreciate everyones replies so far.

 

I was the one who rebuilt the transmission so I don't doubt I screwed something up, I remember that seal in particular being a pain in the ***. Would that explain why when the fluid is low reverse works after a couple of seconds instead of having to give it gas?

 

I will definitely figure out how to get the codes. Is the MLPS the same as the shift lever position sensor? If so I did neglect to check those wires for continuity, but I did replace that part. I will also look into getting the speedo working.

 

This is very helpful thank you! I will give it a test once I get back to it.

 

What rebuild kit did you buy, what is the brand name of the clutches and steels you used?
After it was built, before putting oil in it, and solenoid pack on, did you do the 'Air Test' to make sure all clutch packs are working correctly?

 

thank you for the reply. I bought a Proking deluxe rebuild kit off of advanced auto parts website, I am not sure of the exact brand of clutches and plates. I believe I only tested one pack in the rear of the transmission, definitely did not test all of them.
i followed this series when rebuilding
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCtF4HA9qLfOb4dqXqA_lVmoRMsNG8pRJ

 

Your reverse problem may be the valve body.
Did your engine leak oil before you pulled the trans, or is it your trans that is leaking oil?

Maybe the Torque converter was not seated correctly the first time, causing many issues you are experiencing.

Could be wrong seal on the input shaft, maybe.
Pulling codes may show the issue, but I doubt it. Will probably show code 62.

Sounds more internal. I rebuilt my trans myself a few years ago, basically rebuilt it twice, double and triple checking everything. Luckily I did not have any issues.

If it were me, I'd pull the pan, pull the valve bodies, and air check all clutch packs where the documentation shows to test the air ports.
If that passes, good.
Follow the document about diagnosing the trans. If you do not have it, I will find and post.

 

I replaced the vlave body and accumulator body yesterday with no change, also the first time I drove it things seemed fine but when I pulled it into the driveway the engine was leaking oil so I pulled it out the truck and redid the gaskets as well as the wiring harness connector for the solenoid pack, after that i drove it again and thats when the transmission problems started happening. I replaced the seal the torque converter goes into which looked the same as the original, and the torque converter itself and I made sure I got that distinct click from searing the torque converter all the way, the videos I watched stressed the importance of that. I do have the paper showing where to test it, I will definitely give that a try. Does the engine shuddering have anything to do with it? Some sounds do come from the transmission as well whenever it clicks.

 

Can you get a video or audio of the shuddering and click noise?

What happens if you disconnect your trans harness completely.
I think it should only go into limp mode, but maybe you will see different problems, maybe indicating the harness isn't perfect.

 

I will have to take a video when I return back to the truck, but I tried taking only the solenoid pack harness off and it went into limp mode but nothing changed with reverse , I only tested it in the driveway going back and forth to see if it will crawl by itself in reverse going downhill but it didn't, it does crawl by itself going uphill in drive, the only thing that seemed to change when removing the harness from the solenoid pack was drive taking longer to engage and seemingly slipping as well when given gas although it did crawl forward while in limp mode.

 

If its slipping, you'll burn up the clutches.
Get a pressure tester, put it in the pressure tester port, verify pressure.
Low to no pressure would be bad pump.

Did you replace all bushings in pump and trans?
Did you use assembly goo when you rebuilt it?