died on the road today
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2020
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died on the road today
Went out to lunch today, truck started right up, but then died two miles from home at a stop sign. I think, but not 100% sure, I had switched from front to rear fuel tank a second or two before it stalled. Now it will crank, but won't start. Both tanks have about 1/4 tank. i guess i will check the fuel pressure on the rail as first thing to look at ( on the side of the road!). any other suggestions where to start? thanks.
96 f-150 4wd, auto, 302
96 f-150 4wd, auto, 302
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Junior User
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yes, tried multiple times on each tank. Can you start/fire a fuel injected motor on starting fluid? I've never tried that.
I think my tank selector switch is good, as the gauge creeps up a bit when I switch to the rear tank, which has a bit more fuel.
I think my tank selector switch is good, as the gauge creeps up a bit when I switch to the rear tank, which has a bit more fuel.
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I'll give that a try. I think it's not fuel, at least not the pump(s). Plenty of pressure when I release from the shraeder valve on the fuel line. Truck has run perfect for last 20k miles or so, was running fine until it died at the stop sign -- so I as figuring for sure the fuel pump wasn't cycling. But I can hear it run for couple seconds after turning the key, and getting at least some pressure to the valve.
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I wonder if I can tow it with a chain and my wife's SUV, or if i need to call a tow truck. i'm only 1/2 mile from home, at most, but it's all uphill!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,324
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From: Laramie, WY
Whichever tank you were on before switching, go back to that, and turn the key to "on" but not the "start" position. This runs the fuel pump for ~1 second. Turn the key to "off" when you hear the fuel pump relay click. Then turn the key back to "on", wait for relay click, back to "off". Repeat this 5 or more times, then try to start the truck.
Something to try anyway. If still no good, get it home. Then start with checking fuel pressure at the rail. You can have fuel come out of the shrader valve but that doesn't mean there's much pressure.
Something to try anyway. If still no good, get it home. Then start with checking fuel pressure at the rail. You can have fuel come out of the shrader valve but that doesn't mean there's much pressure.
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thanks, I did that already. My boat has MPI, and has had some issues, so I've used that trick. i can hear the pumps going, on front or back tank. Tow truck is coming soon, and will start looking for spark first. assuming i have that, will go borrow a fuel pressure gauge I suppose.
I hate seeing my truck getting towed! especially when it's only 1/5th of a mile. But want to get if off the street.
I hate seeing my truck getting towed! especially when it's only 1/5th of a mile. But want to get if off the street.
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Truck is home, now the fun begins. Putting a timing light on the main coil wire, or any plug wire - when cranking the motor not enough juice to even fire the timing light. I do have volts at the coil. The rotor does spin when cranking, and when I crank the motor with a voltage lead on what i think is the PIP wire, my analog volt meter is bouncing around 4 volts, maybe a little above.
Does this tell me anything? Bad coil?
I figured for 33 bucks, why not replace the coil. Had my self convinced that's where the problem was. I was wrong, new coil is on, still no spark.
Does this tell me anything? Bad coil?
I figured for 33 bucks, why not replace the coil. Had my self convinced that's where the problem was. I was wrong, new coil is on, still no spark.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
If you have enough volts going up to the coil, usually 1 of 3 things causing a no start. The coil which you have already replaced. The PIP in the distributor and the ICM. The ICM, the ignition module, would be simplest to address, possibly you could find a parts place to test yours and save money if that isn't the problem.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,067
Likes: 863
From: N.W. Alabama
ICM test-->Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
test #7 shows how to test PIP-->Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
coil test-->Part 1 -Ignition Coil Test -No Spark No Start Tests (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
test #7 shows how to test PIP-->Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
coil test-->Part 1 -Ignition Coil Test -No Spark No Start Tests (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
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thanks, that's a good site. Of course I don't have an LED test light, or a regular test light, or an HEI spark tester - but will see what I can do. Might have to take an uber to the parts store this evening.
I have seen that i need to disconnect the PCM , and see if there is spark. Is it enough to pull the jumper out of the timing connector - or do I actually have to disconnect the PCM?
I have seen that i need to disconnect the PCM , and see if there is spark. Is it enough to pull the jumper out of the timing connector - or do I actually have to disconnect the PCM?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
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From: Houston/Sugar Land
thanks, that's a good site. Of course I don't have an LED test light, or a regular test light, or an HEI spark tester - but will see what I can do. Might have to take an uber to the parts store this evening.
I have seen that i need to disconnect the PCM , and see if there is spark. Is it enough to pull the jumper out of the timing connector - or do I actually have to disconnect the PCM?
I have seen that i need to disconnect the PCM , and see if there is spark. Is it enough to pull the jumper out of the timing connector - or do I actually have to disconnect the PCM?
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removed the SPout, no change. was only intending on buying some test tools at the NAPA, but they had the black module and the distributor in stock. So like the hack I am, threw two more parts at the problem, actually three more because I replaced the coil connector harness as that was one part which definitely needed to be replaced.
and still no spark. all the flow charts aren't helping me now - new coil, connector, module, and distributor ( and cap & rotor). have positive at the coil, negative does not pulse when cranking.
and still no spark. all the flow charts aren't helping me now - new coil, connector, module, and distributor ( and cap & rotor). have positive at the coil, negative does not pulse when cranking.