died on the road today
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2020
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rotor is turning, that was one of first things I looked at. checked that one when I was waiting for the tow truck - because of how fast it went from running perfect, to completely dead I was sure it was broken timing chain, or something else more catastrophic than a bad relay, coil, etc.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2020
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On the bracket that the coil is mounted, there is small black plastic part -- that sort of looks like it could be a fuse ? ( a fuse on the negative side?) one of the wires coming out of the coil harness is connected to top / front, and it's bolted to the coil bracket. taking the tester to it, the contact is not grounded. Should it be?
Looking up the part number, F6UF-18801-AA -- perhaps this is the radio noise suppressor, which is not part of the ignition circuit? bummer. thought I may have been onto something finally.
Looking up the part number, F6UF-18801-AA -- perhaps this is the radio noise suppressor, which is not part of the ignition circuit? bummer. thought I may have been onto something finally.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2020
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I also have some kind of alarm/anti-theft system in this truck, that I often forget about. was reminded of it today, not sure what I did, but I set it off. Now I can't even get the car to crank, let alone spark. I guess I'm about done.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
You have done a lot and it gets frustrating when these things happen. We have all been there, so I at least know how you feel. 
Take a day off and forget about it and when you feel like getting back to it, go for it. Dr. Sandy
Take a day off and forget about it and when you feel like getting back to it, go for it. Dr. Sandy
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2020
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Sadly during Covid this car became my daily driver - used to have the truck just to haul my boat around, and such. And had a new(ish) car for the daily grind. But then when I went from driving 2k+ miles per month to driving 200 miles a month last spring, figured why have two cars. Might be time to go back to two cars though.
i'll probably have to take it to a shop next week, or whenever they can see me. If I can remember how to shut the alarm up. Because beyond the coil, module and distributor, not sure what else I can do to get a spark?
i'll probably have to take it to a shop next week, or whenever they can see me. If I can remember how to shut the alarm up. Because beyond the coil, module and distributor, not sure what else I can do to get a spark?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
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From: Houston/Sugar Land
Since you reopened the door, did you do what was advised in post 19? rla is one of more knowledgeable on the forum. He knows his stuff. Follow his advice, even post 22 if you are game.
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Junior User
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Yes for 19, tried it once without the radio capacitor connected.
Not yet on 22, but if I'm stuck home with no car all holiday weekend, pretty much a foregone conclusion. Will have to take an uber to the beer store I guess! I remember when I was young my parents used to get deliveries from the local beer distributor. I guess they don't do that anymore?
Might run a positive wire to the coil, and try again. even though the volt meter showed I had voltage there, maybe it was not strong enough to kick out a spark. And then if I touch and disconnect a negative wire to other side of coil, that has to throw a spark, right? at least will allow me to narrow it down to which polarity of the primary ignition circuit is failing ( even though I'm somewhat certain it's negative not pulsing).
I
Not yet on 22, but if I'm stuck home with no car all holiday weekend, pretty much a foregone conclusion. Will have to take an uber to the beer store I guess! I remember when I was young my parents used to get deliveries from the local beer distributor. I guess they don't do that anymore?
Might run a positive wire to the coil, and try again. even though the volt meter showed I had voltage there, maybe it was not strong enough to kick out a spark. And then if I touch and disconnect a negative wire to other side of coil, that has to throw a spark, right? at least will allow me to narrow it down to which polarity of the primary ignition circuit is failing ( even though I'm somewhat certain it's negative not pulsing).
I
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
You can test for spark by momentarily applying a ground to the negative side of the coil with the key on. Use a jumper wire tied to a good ground to trigger the coil. A momentary touch is all that is required. If you get spark then you know the issue is on the ground/trigger side.
While removing the SPOUT plug does remove the computer's ability to the control spark there are instances where the computer can still drawn down the PIP signal enough to not allow the ICM to trigger off the PIP. If the manual test does not produce spark then disconnect the PCM connector and try again or just crank the engine over with the PCM completely disconnected to see if you get spark.
While removing the SPOUT plug does remove the computer's ability to the control spark there are instances where the computer can still drawn down the PIP signal enough to not allow the ICM to trigger off the PIP. If the manual test does not produce spark then disconnect the PCM connector and try again or just crank the engine over with the PCM completely disconnected to see if you get spark.
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if I run a negative battery terminal to the coil ground side, and remove it, I get a spark. Not sure how bright my spark tester is supposed to light up, as it's hardly noticeable, but it's a spark. when cranking, no spark at all.
the anit theft system is killing me. I have no idea how to disarm this thing. After a minute or two, it locks the doors. when I unlock them with the key, it alarms again. For past year it was disabled, I don't recall how, but now it's active again. Making it impossible to do anything.
the anit theft system is killing me. I have no idea how to disarm this thing. After a minute or two, it locks the doors. when I unlock them with the key, it alarms again. For past year it was disabled, I don't recall how, but now it's active again. Making it impossible to do anything.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
So the basic ignition system is functioning, that's a good thing. The spark should be relatively bright and blue in color. If not, verify the full 12 volts is getting to the coil. Then the next step is unplugging the PCM to see if it is causing the no spark condition or that pesky alarm system.
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it wasnt the alarm that killed me initially. but it might be getting me today. I think the only other time I had issues with the alarm, I just started the engine, and that shut it up after a minute or two. Guess that isn't going to happen today. I thought I had it disabled again by disconnecting battery for a few minutes, and then reconnecting with key in on position. Let me have a few cranking attempts before it started locking the doors and alarming -- but it's backkkk. The no spark condition is mildly frustrating. This alarm system has me looking at cars.com for my next ( non FORD! 
vehicle.
Whether I ran a battery + jumper to the coil, or not, spark inside the inline tester on the main coil wire looked the same - and only producible when using a negative jumper wire to stimulate it. tried with spout removed, and in place. Did not try unplugging the PCM. Not sure I know where the PCM is, or how to unplug it.
vehicle.Whether I ran a battery + jumper to the coil, or not, spark inside the inline tester on the main coil wire looked the same - and only producible when using a negative jumper wire to stimulate it. tried with spout removed, and in place. Did not try unplugging the PCM. Not sure I know where the PCM is, or how to unplug it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,781
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From: Foothills of NC
Do you have a good ground wire from the engine to the battery, and from the engine to the cab?The battery ground should/may, also ground into the chassis. Peel back a little insulation to see in the insides of the wire is green from corrosion.
There should be two small ground wires behind the kick panel, close to the floor. Remove these and clean up, the put back. There may be a ground strap under the drivers cab floor to the frame also. I just replaced the one there on my truck and recently cleaned every ground.
there are also some small grounds in front of the battery on the radiator support, and I think on the radiator support on the drivers side also on your model.
There should be two small ground wires behind the kick panel, close to the floor. Remove these and clean up, the put back. There may be a ground strap under the drivers cab floor to the frame also. I just replaced the one there on my truck and recently cleaned every ground.
there are also some small grounds in front of the battery on the radiator support, and I think on the radiator support on the drivers side also on your model.