died on the road today
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2020
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yes, timing light pickup is on front cylinder passenger side, or cylinder 1. Opposite of where cylinder 1 is on a real motor (:
The duralast ICM is black. how on earth is the only difference between two parts the color? If duralast happened to color this thing black instead of gray, even though it was built to the gray specs, how would anyone know? Ford couldn't have changed plug size when they moved to the computer dwell? The one I bought was a 'Duralast Ignition Control Module F139- Notes: Black'. Does motorcraft still sell the 'black' one? Not seeing it on rock auto, or anywhere else -- but if it's a DY1077 it can be found n amazon. Anyone have the part number for it? thanks.
i did not re-splice all of the wires from the removed viper alarm. Once I pulled the harness, starter and ignition circuits seemed good, so I didn't mess with it. I can't imagine it was grabbing the ICM to PCM wire, but at this point I suppose anything is possible?
The duralast ICM is black. how on earth is the only difference between two parts the color? If duralast happened to color this thing black instead of gray, even though it was built to the gray specs, how would anyone know? Ford couldn't have changed plug size when they moved to the computer dwell? The one I bought was a 'Duralast Ignition Control Module F139- Notes: Black'. Does motorcraft still sell the 'black' one? Not seeing it on rock auto, or anywhere else -- but if it's a DY1077 it can be found n amazon. Anyone have the part number for it? thanks.
i did not re-splice all of the wires from the removed viper alarm. Once I pulled the harness, starter and ignition circuits seemed good, so I didn't mess with it. I can't imagine it was grabbing the ICM to PCM wire, but at this point I suppose anything is possible?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Candy Mountain
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,083
Likes: 868
From: N.W. Alabama
yes, timing light pickup is on front cylinder passenger side, or cylinder 1. Opposite of where cylinder 1 is on a real motor (:
The duralast ICM is black. how on earth is the only difference between two parts the color? . Does motorcraft still sell the 'black' one? Not seeing it on rock auto, or anywhere else -- but if it's a DY1077 it can be found n amazon. Anyone have the part number for it? thanks.
The duralast ICM is black. how on earth is the only difference between two parts the color? . Does motorcraft still sell the 'black' one? Not seeing it on rock auto, or anywhere else -- but if it's a DY1077 it can be found n amazon. Anyone have the part number for it? thanks.
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thanks. so it is the DY1077; most of the parts books say that module wont work for ANY f-150, but i just ordered one from rock.
If it's pinging like crazy when i accelerate, I guess that means I need to retard it a bit, by rotating distributor counter clockwise? The odb reader told me I was around 30% at near full throttle, which doesn't seem that high. But never heard this truck ping like this before.
If it's pinging like crazy when i accelerate, I guess that means I need to retard it a bit, by rotating distributor counter clockwise? The odb reader told me I was around 30% at near full throttle, which doesn't seem that high. But never heard this truck ping like this before.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,083
Likes: 868
From: N.W. Alabama
Yes, sir, nobody knows, how/why, the wrong info has stayed out longer than the correct info, even after showing the Engineers 'their own' wiring diagrams, and how it changed in 94, they dont believe anyone, I have the 1077 in my truck and a new, and a used spare in the glove box. Mine just couldnt get out of its own way, had knock going up hills, before OD dropped out, kept backing timing down(8*), just nothing, and a big honking 351w should pull its on weight, better than it was, then run upon the thread that R&R posted, and son of a mother, now timing is around 12-13* and no knock...yes it made difference, first drive, you knew.
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The vacuum hose, the vacuum hose. Third repair I've done on this truck, third time I've forgotten to hook back up the nearly fire hose sized vacuum line that connects to back of the intake. someday I will learn. That took care of the 'too lean' error codes.
still getting the Ignition Circuit code, hoping the Motorcraft module that is making it's way to my house will take care of that one. Or I may have some other issue. Seems like the PO did a real number on the SPOUT connector, and the plug doesn't snap into place, just kind of sits in the connector. that could be a problem. Surprised I never lost it on the road, it's that loose. I'll perhaps try to tape it in there tightly. Or start shopping for a new connector?
Still running very rough, and getting misfire codes, random and cylinder 2. I plan to get under the truck this evening to try and figure out if the red dot the PO left me is TDC, or 10 degrees BTDC, or some other point. Hoping that getting the timing set will take care of the misfire errors, and rough running.
still getting the Ignition Circuit code, hoping the Motorcraft module that is making it's way to my house will take care of that one. Or I may have some other issue. Seems like the PO did a real number on the SPOUT connector, and the plug doesn't snap into place, just kind of sits in the connector. that could be a problem. Surprised I never lost it on the road, it's that loose. I'll perhaps try to tape it in there tightly. Or start shopping for a new connector?
Still running very rough, and getting misfire codes, random and cylinder 2. I plan to get under the truck this evening to try and figure out if the red dot the PO left me is TDC, or 10 degrees BTDC, or some other point. Hoping that getting the timing set will take care of the misfire errors, and rough running.
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sorry, getting three codes this morning.
P1351 - Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Input Circuit -- As soon as it starts running, even after I clear it, I get the code as pending right away. I keep starting it with the SPOUT out - but then pretty sure every time I shut it off, put the spout in, restart, and clear the codes.
Needed to drive around a bit before these two popped up
P0300 - Random Misfire detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
My balancer is a rusty mess - all I can see is the red dot some previous owner painted on. Going to try and clean it up this evening, to determine if the dot is at TDC, or somewhere before. The Ford engineers should have spent a little more time trying to hide the timing pointer - or had something more violent than just pulleys, a belt and a fan blocking access. if i stick my head in just the right position, I can almost see it from above without whacking the timing light to bits.
P1351 - Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Input Circuit -- As soon as it starts running, even after I clear it, I get the code as pending right away. I keep starting it with the SPOUT out - but then pretty sure every time I shut it off, put the spout in, restart, and clear the codes.
Needed to drive around a bit before these two popped up
P0300 - Random Misfire detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
My balancer is a rusty mess - all I can see is the red dot some previous owner painted on. Going to try and clean it up this evening, to determine if the dot is at TDC, or somewhere before. The Ford engineers should have spent a little more time trying to hide the timing pointer - or had something more violent than just pulleys, a belt and a fan blocking access. if i stick my head in just the right position, I can almost see it from above without whacking the timing light to bits.
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Ok, was able to sand off the balancer a bit, and confirm that the mark left by the previous owner was at TDC, which makes more sense than what I was thinking. So set the timing to 10 btdc ( was set at tdc), checked it with two 'advance' timing lights - put the spout back in and went for a ride. Still ran like crap. Shut it off, pulled the SPOUT, started back up - and then went for a drive. Holy cow, minus the SPOUT it ran REALLY WELL. Like as well as it ever has, maybe better. Put the spout back in, ran like crap. Took it out, ran great. Everyone online seems to say there is no advance with the spout unplugged -- but that can't be accurate. Must be some kind of manual override, outside of the PCM? no way I was driving at 10 degrees when accelerating from dead stop to 60 mph.
Does that tell me I should drive this truck with no SPOUT plug the rest of my life? Buy a new PCM? Or just start drinking heavily?
If a decide to throw a new PCM at the problem,-- any best place to order from, part numbers, etc? or threads where this has been covered in the past?
thanks again everyone for all of your help.
Does that tell me I should drive this truck with no SPOUT plug the rest of my life? Buy a new PCM? Or just start drinking heavily?
If a decide to throw a new PCM at the problem,-- any best place to order from, part numbers, etc? or threads where this has been covered in the past?
thanks again everyone for all of your help.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
Since all of the PCMs are remanufactured, many of them have a brand new stickers on them with zero QC or operation checks, get one from some place with a warranty.
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Ran out at lunch and threw in the new ICM from rockauto. It claimed to be a Motorcraft, and came in a Motocraft box. Didn't say Motorcraft anywhere on the module, and didn't look any different from the two autozone modules I've had. Installed it, left the spout IN, and went for a drive. Car runs perfect, no P1351, no misfire, no check engine, nothing.
if anyone is thinking of buying a duralast ICM from autozone, or really any cheap replacement ( they have some at rock auto under $15) in my opinion you should look elsewhere. First one I bought was a complete dud, no spark. Next one allowed the car to start, but either it was defective, or perhaps it was the wrong module - a gray one colored black maybe? This module threw all kinds of error codes, and motor ran horribly under any load beyond idle speed.
thanks again rla2005, torq'ta 5 8, and everyone else who replied. I would not have a running truck without you.
now I just have to cancel the order I put in this morning for a new PCM! and start on the air conditioner repair.
if anyone is thinking of buying a duralast ICM from autozone, or really any cheap replacement ( they have some at rock auto under $15) in my opinion you should look elsewhere. First one I bought was a complete dud, no spark. Next one allowed the car to start, but either it was defective, or perhaps it was the wrong module - a gray one colored black maybe? This module threw all kinds of error codes, and motor ran horribly under any load beyond idle speed.
thanks again rla2005, torq'ta 5 8, and everyone else who replied. I would not have a running truck without you.
now I just have to cancel the order I put in this morning for a new PCM! and start on the air conditioner repair.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
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From: Kentucky
So this time the truck is on the road! Good deal. Never trust anything with a Duralast label on it. I only buy windshield washer fluid at da'Zone when it is on sale. Anything else my business goes elsewhere.
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