Hello all, I have no spark to my distributor or points on my 51 Flathead V8. It has been converted to 12V with a Negative ground. I am running a 12 volt coil with a built in resistor to bring down the power to my points as they are still 6 volt points. The only time I can get power to the points is the initial push of the starter button. Any help?

 

Sounds like your missing an ignition power lead to the distributor. Starter button, depending on how you wired it, (through a solenoid, ) should only be supplying power to the solenoid, the key on should supply power to the coil. Check your wiring.

 

Truck has ran before, I have power to the coil just can’t get it to the distributor.

 

If I hear you right, you have 12v at the coil, but no 12v at the distributor.

if that’s correct, I’d start by checking for continuity from the coil to the points, then between the points while they’re closed. Also check the ground connection at the distributor.

if that’s all good. Try the condenser.

 

So then are you saying, that you get spark, or the engine is acting like it wants to fire as long as you hold the start button in? If so, as mentioned above it sounds like you are missing your ignition voltage between the Ignition switch and your coil. Take a test light, turn your ignition switch on, and see if it lights on the ignition side of the coil. If no, then see if you do have a connection back to you ignition switch. If you do get the test bulb to light, then your next test is to see if the points are connecting to ground. I would disconnect the wire(s) from the ignition side of the coil, connect them to the test light, then take the other side of the test light and connect it to the points side of the coil. Have someone crank the engine, you will have no spark but you should see your test light flash with the engine turning over. If no flash, then double check your connections to your points, then also check to make sure the little breaker plate ground strap is connected tightly to the distributor. If now you have test light flashes put the coil wires back on the coil and try it. You could even have a bad condenser which could be partially shorting out your points, or an open condenser which could help lower your spark voltage and burn up your point contacts. Check for On ingintion voltage to the coil first, then the points to ground wiring, then I would look at your condenser.
. Myself, I would rather have a coil with an external coil resistor. Thay way it could be wired to bypass the external resistor when the engine is cranking, giving you a hotter starting spark.

 

That's only possible with a 4-post starter solenoid, with the "I" terminal. Personally I'd rather not put extra current thru the points, even just for starting.

From OP's description, it almost sounds like he has a 4-post solenoid, and the only power to the coil is coming from the "I" terminal while cranking, none from the ignition switch.

 

Two good points there Ross!
I agree with you second one. It sounded to me that is what he has too.
About your first point, we know Ford had it set up that way for years with the 4 post starter solenoid. But now days, with good points and condensers being hard to find, and the lack of starting these engines at really low temperatures, why add the stress to the points? Yes, what you are saying isn't a bad idea!

 

do you have a ballist resister in line someplace?

 

This might help. Properly your starter relay is wired wrong.