Granted I'm not a mechanic:

My question tonight is based on my prior forum...."timing way off"

My points are set right now at .016 on the high side of the mount.

I can see some spark at at the points, and the coil but, points aren't opening. should they open? If so what am I doing wrong?

B4 I get it started I'm going to attempt to rotate the engine to #1 cylinder, mark the damper at tdc, and point the rotor to the #....
Once I start it at that point, I'm assuming that I will have turn the distributor until the the marker is set on 6 degrees.

Please correct me and offer any guidance?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-Aug-02 AT 01:26 AM (EST)]>Granted I'm not a mechanic:
>
>My question tonight is based on my prior forum...."timing
>way off"
>
>My points are set right now at .016 on the high side of the
>mount.
>
>I can see some spark at at the points, and the coil but,
>points aren't opening. should they open? If so what am I
>doing wrong?
>
>B4 I get it started I'm going to attempt to rotate the
>engine to #1 cylinder, mark the damper at tdc, and point the
>rotor to the #....
>Once I start it at that point, I'm assuming that I will have
>turn the distributor until the the marker is set on 6
>degrees.
>
>Please correct me and offer any guidance?


"I can see some spark at the points"

OK. No way are you going to see spark at the points, since it's covered by the distributor cap. If you *do*, that would be because the condensor (capacitor) is bad, or more likey, you have the points *way* off adjustment. The condensor is shunted in parallel across the points for just this reason, to keep them from burning. They should measure about .21uF if you have a capcitor checker.

OK. I think we're getting somewhere -- When you install points on these critters there are two screws that hold them to the body of the distributor. For setting the points, you'll want to tighten them down nice and snug, but not reefed down, know what I mean? Then, with your 3/4 in. drive ratchet and extension, put a 13/16th's socket on and turn the harmonic balancer and pulley so the distributor and rotor turns counter-clockwise. It will be hard to turn because of the compression in the cylinders, but don't worry about it.

Ford's of this era are a pain because the distributor is way back at the firewall, it's hard to see. If you have a second repairman, that helps, they can watch while you turn the crankshaft. What you are looking for is when one of eight 'bumps' or lobes of the distributor cam is *exactly* underneath the point cam follower - the part that rides on the distributor shaft - don't worry about if the points are open or not at this spot.

Now. Take a feeler gauge and open up .014 or .015 or .016, for our purposes it won't matter - wipe it clean with alcohol or even soap and water, wipe off with a clean rag. You don't want any grease or contamination to bugger up your new points.

If you look closely at the base of the points, you'll see a slot on the left hand side that has a corresponding slot on the distributor body. What that allows you to do is stick a screwdriver in there and twist back and forth the point gap while the points are on the high lobe of the distributor cam; what you'll need to do is slightly loosen up the left screw holding the points down to allow the whole mechanism to be adjusted, yet hold it's postion, it will take a bit of back and forth to get it just right -- you'll feel a bit of 'drag' on the feeler gauge when you have it exactly right.

Tighten down the points all the way, and rotate the distributor via the crankshaft a couple lobes till it is *exactly* on the high point, and measure again. Should be .014 to .016; lubricate the distributor cam with some silicone grease lightly, remember to put the rotor back on, and reinstall the distributor cap, snap it down.

Make sure all tools are removed from the engine bay, rags, and the wrench you were using to turn the crankshaft. Double check everything -- and you should be good to go. Hope this helps.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-Aug-02 AT 11:49 AM (EST)]Ray: Here's an easy way to check the overall integrity of your ignition system. This series of checks is to ensure that all electrical components are working. It will not check mechanical weaknesses, though, such as a stripped distributor gear, sloppy timing chain, incorrect timing, etc.
1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
2. Rotate the engine to where the points are closed.
3. Remove the coil wire from the cap.
4. Turn the ignition to RUN (but don't engage the starter).
5. Hold the coil wire near a good ground, and use a plastic or a wood rod to open and close the points. Be careful here, so you don't get bit.
6. Every time the points close, you should get a spark out of the coil wire. The spark should be long, bright, blue and make a crisp snapping sound.
7. If you get a very weak spark, or no spark at all, then use a metal screwdiver to alternately ground and release the points arm (not the stationary part of the points) to produce spark.
Interpreting Results:
A. If you get strong spark at the begining, your problem is a mechanical one, not electrical.
B. If after both you get a weak spark or no spark, then you have electrical or ignition problems.
C. If you get a weak spark using a plastic tool, but a strong spark using a metal grounding tool like a screwdriver, then your points are bad or misadjusted.
D. Mechanical problems: Inside the distributor your lobes on the distributor cam (which open and close the points may be worn down) or the distributor bushings inside are sloppy, causing the distributor shaft to wobble around. The roll pin for the distributor gear may be stripped as well.
Others may be the timing chain, spun harmonic balancer, or the like.

 

Thanks, now let me ask you guys this; If I have some engage my starter and I see spark at the points and at the coil, but the points are not opening...What's going on then? Are the points bad or not set right?

 

Ray, did you read my earlier posting? If the points won't open then they aren't set right.




Keep 'er between the ditches.

 

Ted I read your post; very good,it helped alot as well as Banjopickers, i got them set right, its running pretty good now....

Thanks to everyone

 

Ray: Tedster is right, if the points do not open, then you get no spark. See below for the reason I am continuing this thread.
Explanation: His point is made on the fact that when a DC electric circuit in the shape of a helix collapses, the magnetic field it created collapses too. Based on the principle of the transformer, the coil uses this collapsing magnetic field, which mometarily generates an electric current in a second coil wrapped around the first, to produce a tremendous spark of around 20,000 volts - but no current.
The points are used to create and then disconnect the voltage in the first circuit - hence "primary ignition circuit" and "secondary circuit."

Now, the reason I continued this thread: The points may open just enough to break the circuit - and produce the spark, but not enough necessarily to be visible to the naked eye. .016 gap is just that: 16 thousandths. Add to that the fact that pitting on the face of the point can deceive your measurements, and your eye.

Hope this helps, and GLAD you goy her running!

(bet the wife is too, eh! ):*