remote /keyless module clicking - major electrical malfunction
*I opened the keyless module and don't see any burned components, etc.
* the driver's door latch doesn't seem to be quite right at the moment either.
*read of a later model fords where there was wiring issue in the door /jamb area so will check that too. seems unlikely as there has been no burned fuses.
HELP!
*I opened the keyless module and don't see any burned components, etc.
* the driver's door latch doesn't seem to be quite right at the moment either.
*read of a later model fords where there was wiring issue in the door /jamb area so will check that too. seems unlikely as there has been no burned fuses.
HELP!
as others have commented (with similar problem) the clicking stops with door closed or by touching brake pedal. however, the rest of the electrical is still dead - no radio, starter, etc
first, i found a keyless entry module at the wrecking yard. didn't fix it- everything was exactly the same.
next, i did end up removing both batt cables and cleaning the terminals. i had noticed that with a batt charger attached there was some 'life' in the electrical system (dome lights, etc) even though there was nothing as far as starting goes (no solenoid click, nothing).
here's where it got interesting (frustrating!). once i got the batt cables re-attached and had (normal) electrical activity i was sure it would fire right up. wrong-o! no fuel, fuel pump not running. i learned that the alarm system is seperate from the keyless( i had assumed it was all in one) so wondered if that was the problem. mine has two plugs at the anti-theft module. experimenting with unplugging those got me nowhere.
checks of the relays, fuses, and inertia switch found nothing wrong. no 12v at the fuel pump plug though. complicating matters is the fact that 1) this truck has a single tank, and 2) is a Centurion-built crew cab. all the diagrams i found showed dual tanks and i wasnt sure if the wire colors could be trusted since the harness going back the pump had been modified by Centurion.
finally i realized that the dash bezel (?) has to be installed (or at least the LH plug attached to it) for the truck to run as the power from the inertia sw goes to the tank selector then to the fuel pump. with a single tank though, the plug that would attach to the tank selector plugs into a terminal on the bezel. or a jumper wire could be inserted into that plug (between the R/Y and BR/W wires).
in the end the original problem seems to have just been the poor connection at the battery? or maybe the theft system malfunction? learned that everything seems to work with the LH (yellow/white plug) of the anti-theft module unhooked (but RH black plug hooked up). i'm confident that im not sure i got that right- might be the other way around? truck is back together so cant verify.
Last edited by 94f150crew; May 31, 2021 at 11:54 AM.







