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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

remote /keyless module clicking - major electrical malfunction

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Old May 23, 2021 | 09:06 PM
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remote /keyless module clicking - major electrical malfunction

twice now, when turning off the truck there is a bizarre electrical problem. the factory keyless entry module (right of the cluster) clicks and power to everything else is cut off. the first time I cycled the key and shifter, etc and it went back to normal. several weeks later it has happened again but I can't get it to stop (short of unhooking the batt).

*I opened the keyless module and don't see any burned components, etc.
* the driver's door latch doesn't seem to be quite right at the moment either.
*read of a later model fords where there was wiring issue in the door /jamb area so will check that too. seems unlikely as there has been no burned fuses.

HELP!
 
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Old May 24, 2021 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 94f150crew
twice now, when turning off the truck there is a bizarre electrical problem. the factory keyless entry module (right of the cluster) clicks and power to everything else is cut off. the first time I cycled the key and shifter, etc and it went back to normal. several weeks later it has happened again but I can't get it to stop (short of unhooking the batt).

*I opened the keyless module and don't see any burned components, etc.
* the driver's door latch doesn't seem to be quite right at the moment either.
*read of a later model fords where there was wiring issue in the door /jamb area so will check that too. seems unlikely as there has been no burned fuses.

HELP!
Don't know what year it was, believe it was a 2001. Had a very similar issue. There was a sensor in the door latch that would get gummed up. I soaked the door latch, liberally, with a safe electrical cleaner, and it solved my problem. I believe I used wd-40. But, again, has been several years ago.
 
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Old May 24, 2021 | 11:16 PM
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I checked that but no luck. what yr was your truck? only wires i see go to the pwr door lock solenoid and to the lock cyl? didn't have time to pull and latch mechanism, nor did I want to.

as others have commented (with similar problem) the clicking stops with door closed or by touching brake pedal. however, the rest of the electrical is still dead - no radio, starter, etc

 
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Old May 25, 2021 | 06:57 AM
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Do you have the key fob, my wife's, Honda would start alarming, for no reason, sitting in driveway, and it was the battery going dead in the key fob, in house, not the one she had on her key chain.
 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 11:51 AM
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truck is back on the road. cant say for sure what caused the original issue.
first, i found a keyless entry module at the wrecking yard. didn't fix it- everything was exactly the same.
next, i did end up removing both batt cables and cleaning the terminals. i had noticed that with a batt charger attached there was some 'life' in the electrical system (dome lights, etc) even though there was nothing as far as starting goes (no solenoid click, nothing).

here's where it got interesting (frustrating!). once i got the batt cables re-attached and had (normal) electrical activity i was sure it would fire right up. wrong-o! no fuel, fuel pump not running. i learned that the alarm system is seperate from the keyless( i had assumed it was all in one) so wondered if that was the problem. mine has two plugs at the anti-theft module. experimenting with unplugging those got me nowhere.

checks of the relays, fuses, and inertia switch found nothing wrong. no 12v at the fuel pump plug though. complicating matters is the fact that 1) this truck has a single tank, and 2) is a Centurion-built crew cab. all the diagrams i found showed dual tanks and i wasnt sure if the wire colors could be trusted since the harness going back the pump had been modified by Centurion.
finally i realized that the dash bezel (?) has to be installed (or at least the LH plug attached to it) for the truck to run as the power from the inertia sw goes to the tank selector then to the fuel pump. with a single tank though, the plug that would attach to the tank selector plugs into a terminal on the bezel. or a jumper wire could be inserted into that plug (between the R/Y and BR/W wires).

in the end the original problem seems to have just been the poor connection at the battery? or maybe the theft system malfunction? learned that everything seems to work with the LH (yellow/white plug) of the anti-theft module unhooked (but RH black plug hooked up). i'm confident that im not sure i got that right- might be the other way around? truck is back together so cant verify.
 

Last edited by 94f150crew; May 31, 2021 at 11:54 AM.
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