As promised, here is the writeup, with pictures on my project. Truck is a 1994 F-250. 460, E4OD, 4 wheel drive.
I understand there are differences between the big and small blocks, on the AIR pump system, I can not speak to the small blocks, so this information is only for the 460.

I got the truck with a small exhaust leak. Knew it would need some work, I decided to just pull the heads, install the Banks system, and call it good. Silly me! Ended up pulling the entire motor, bored .030 over, new everything internally, pistons, rings, comp cam, lifters, bearings, etc. This was a long project, but, ended up with a fresh motor, complete Banks headers and exhaust system, and deleted the AIR pump system entirely. I did some reading on here, and did keep the EGR system, with some minor modifications.
The entire AIR pump system CAN be removed. You will need to make accommodations for the air injection at the exhaust manifolds, and catalytic converter, if you keep the original ones. Since I installed a Banks system, I will cover those modifications for the header install.. After removing the AIR pump, and all lines, you do NOT need a replacement idler pulley. You can run a shorter belt. I ran a Gates belt, that I will detail later. After you remove the AIR system, you will be left with an extra vacuum line coming off of your Tab/Tad solenoid. This line can be removed, and a vacuum cap used on the solenoid.

Here is the original cylinder head, you can see the broken studs:



I had the heads rebuild, and broken studs removed. Then went on to rebuild the entire engine. Here is a shot on the stand, with the headers loosely attached:



By using the Banks headers, I did not have to deal with removing and plugging the connections on the exhaust manifolds. But, here is a shot of the drivers side manifold, and the fitting you would need to remove, and block off, passenger side is similar:

Since the Banks headers do have fittings for the AIR system, I needed to block them off. On the passenger side, I made a plate:


On the drivers side header, there are 2 bungs. 1 for the AIR injections system, one for the EGR tube. You can see in the picture, I used a plug to block of where the AIR injection system would attach. Where my thumb is, is where the EGR tube attaches:


Since I deleted my AIR system, I needed to remove the vacuum line that runs from the Tab/Tad solenoids, to the thermactor valve. It is this Pink line on my truck:

I cut the fitting apart, keeping the black line intact. Then used a vacuum cap to plug off the solenoid:


Here is a shot of the motor installed, and headers installed. As you can see, it is a pretty tight fit, but, everything clears:


Overall, the Banks kit is very thorough. The headers, and exhaust were a perfect fit. Many brackets and pieces were top notch, and worked perfectly. The instructions were thorough, and very explanatory. I did not have a single issue with the kit. Only thing I had to add, was the catalytic converter. The kit, as is without the converter, fits perfectly for my application, but, was a bit loud. Adding the converter, gave me a nice mellow sound, and made the environment happy. I ended up using a Magna-Flow 3 inch in and out converter, and cut the supplied exhaust pipe to fit it in. while they are a bit pricey, I believe the quality, and ease of the Banks headers and exhaust kit, was worth the money.

Now, I know you are all anxiously waiting for to address the removal of the AIR system. So, wait no more. As I said earlier, I removed EVERYTHING. The pump, lines to manifolds, to converter, the passenger fender well can, themactor valve, 1 vacuum line, and it has made life easier. Once you remove the pump, a shorter Gates, (or equivalent manufacture) belt, will work. It routes around the alternator, water pump, and crankshaft. This is the one I used, and after a few thousand miles, still no problems:

So, to wrap it all up. Banks headers, rebuilt motor, no AIR system. Again, I did keep the EGR system intact. Don't know if it would make a difference to remove it. But, from everything I read, it is better to keep it.

The final outcome, is a happy motor, little bit more power, nice rumble, tiny, tiny improvement in mileage. And a cleaner looking engine bay.

With Zrt1200 input, here is a you tube link, to the running motor.

 

Nice Job.


Cheers,

 

Nice job and very nice write up. Try to make your video into a YouTube video. That's what I do. I found it's easier that way.

 

Thank you sir! I did that, and the video is now in the original post. Appreciate the input.

 

looks great, I’d love to do the banks system but man it costs $$. must be nice not having the annoying air pump moan!

 

I agree, it is a bit pricey. But, definitely a quality product. I went with the entire package, headers and exhaust. You can buy each kit separately though. Biggest issue i had, was wanting to delete the AIR system. So added the exhaust made it easier for me.. The headers will tie into the factory exhaust, if you just went that route.

 

Your Welcome and Nice job on getting that video out to us fast. I follow the lead of the kids with posting videos and things like that as I don't know much about that kinda stuff either. lol.

Those Banks Headers sure fit well. IMO that's worth the extra cost not having the headache of trying to make them fit. It sounds good and looks a lot cleaner under the hood for sure.

 

do you recall the Banks Kit number ?
and did you get it from Summit Racing ?

 

I don't remember the part numbers.. i ordered it directly from Banks.