Intake heat bypass diaphragm
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
I have an 80 and I'm pretty sure my valve is just a open when cold closed when hot. And that's all I really need it to do. I put my new warm air bypass on and im not getting enough vacuum to close it. I'm assuming cuz the bimetal valve isn't functioning properly or is just clogged.
The best way we in hot climates can test it is to pack it with ice for 15 minutes, start the engine, watch the flapper close, remove the ice, and wait for it to open.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 44
Likes: 3
hmm. May need one then lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
IIRC, that is the exact part for an 83 4.9. I can't think why it would be different in other engines.
Are you planning on running both actuators/motors from one of those regulators? If so, it will probably be fine initially and when warm, but the intermediate positions may be less than optimal. This is because there is a calibrated leak in the system to get one flapper "just right" at mid range temperatures. Add a second motor, and the balance will change.
Your winters are similar to ours here in Houston. I doubt my truck stays fully open for more than 5 minutes, and it probably has minimal impact after that.
Are you planning on running both actuators/motors from one of those regulators? If so, it will probably be fine initially and when warm, but the intermediate positions may be less than optimal. This is because there is a calibrated leak in the system to get one flapper "just right" at mid range temperatures. Add a second motor, and the balance will change.
Your winters are similar to ours here in Houston. I doubt my truck stays fully open for more than 5 minutes, and it probably has minimal impact after that.
I keep going back and forth on the dual snorkel myself. Part of me thinks I could benefit from the extra air flow but then I hate the thought of relocating my oil fill to the passenger side rear where it will be even harder to pour oil in. For me I would hook it up but wouldnt care to have it functional. If you have a carb then you really need it functional. I dont think even with aftermarket EFI you could have a benefit of having it functional. About the only benefit it could provide with EFI would be the whole helping to warm the engine up quicker by ingesting warmed air over ice cold air.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Are you planning on running both actuators/motors from one of those regulators? If so, it will probably be fine initially and when warm, but the intermediate positions may be less than optimal. This is because there is a calibrated leak in the system to get one flapper "just right" at mid range temperatures. Add a second motor, and the balance will change.
.
If the flappers were a metered leak and relied on flow to operate them it would be true. But they rely on pressure to operate not flow. The regulator regulates the pressure or vacuum in the line to the motor NOT the flow. The motor is a dead end in the circuit in terms of flow. The regulator is just adjusting the pressure in the hose that is hooked to the motor, and remember that hose dead-ends at the motor no flow.
You could hook 100 actuators/motors to a single regulator it and it would still function exactly the same, of course, the response time would be much slower since you are adjusting the pressure in an area with a much larger volume but you are still just adjusting the pressure to the same value as if one motor was hooked to it, and that is what the actuator responds to pressure not flow.
So with 2 motors, it will work exactly the same as if one motor was hooked to it, just the response time will be milliseconds slower
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
The above is incorrect. But I could understand why someone would think this.
If the flappers were a metered leak and relied on flow to operate them it would be true. But they rely on pressure to operate not flow. The regulator regulates the pressure or vacuum in the line to the motor NOT the flow. The motor is a dead end in the circuit in terms of flow. The regulator is just adjusting the pressure in the hose that is hooked to the motor, and remember that hose dead-ends at the motor no flow.
You could hook 100 actuators/motors to a single regulator it and it would still function exactly the same, of course, the response time would be much slower since you are adjusting the pressure in an area with a much larger volume but you are still just adjusting the pressure to the same value as if one motor was hooked to it, and that is what the actuator responds to pressure not flow.
So with 2 motors, it will work exactly the same as if one motor was hooked to it, just the response time will be milliseconds slower
If the flappers were a metered leak and relied on flow to operate them it would be true. But they rely on pressure to operate not flow. The regulator regulates the pressure or vacuum in the line to the motor NOT the flow. The motor is a dead end in the circuit in terms of flow. The regulator is just adjusting the pressure in the hose that is hooked to the motor, and remember that hose dead-ends at the motor no flow.
You could hook 100 actuators/motors to a single regulator it and it would still function exactly the same, of course, the response time would be much slower since you are adjusting the pressure in an area with a much larger volume but you are still just adjusting the pressure to the same value as if one motor was hooked to it, and that is what the actuator responds to pressure not flow.
So with 2 motors, it will work exactly the same as if one motor was hooked to it, just the response time will be milliseconds slower
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 44
Likes: 3
I'm only using one motor/actuator. Was going to hook up both but one of the actuators I bought the rod for the diaphragm is way off center and doesn't hook the flap right. It was only 4 bucks from rockauto so It's not even worth returning.
On another note the part number in the link above works but the ones I got the rod was about 1/4 inch shorter than it needed to be. So I had to finangle it a bit to work
On another note the part number in the link above works but the ones I got the rod was about 1/4 inch shorter than it needed to be. So I had to finangle it a bit to work
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,999
Likes: 2,746
From: Virginia
I have an 80 and I'm pretty sure my valve is just a open when cold closed when hot. And that's all I really need it to do. I put my new warm air bypass on and im not getting enough vacuum to close it. I'm assuming cuz the bimetal valve isn't functioning properly or is just clogged.
On mine that looked like your first picture I unclipped the plastic cover, and started playing with the sensor as the engine was running. It even had an adjustment screw. I didn't adjust it, but I did mess with it, experimenting on how it worked, and it started working fine afterward. It must had come corrosion on a piece of dirt in it somewhere.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 44
Likes: 3
Don't sell these innocent looking temp sensors short. I don't know about the new one you bought, but I had one that looked like your earlier picture, and it actually modulated the damper door and had middle positions. On one of these units I read that it tried to keep the intake air at 100 degrees, so I would think on most cold starts the damper is going to be shut except on the hottest days.
On mine that looked like your first picture I unclipped the plastic cover, and started playing with the sensor as the engine was running. It even had an adjustment screw. I didn't adjust it, but I did mess with it, experimenting on how it worked, and it started working fine afterward. It must had come corrosion on a piece of dirt in it somewhere.
On mine that looked like your first picture I unclipped the plastic cover, and started playing with the sensor as the engine was running. It even had an adjustment screw. I didn't adjust it, but I did mess with it, experimenting on how it worked, and it started working fine afterward. It must had come corrosion on a piece of dirt in it somewhere.
That makes perfect freaking sense. When I Installed it on the truck it was already afternoon so that coulda been why it was just open. One of those things lol. I figured the trucks cold right? Didn't even think about ambient temp. Haha
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
udamanbaby
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
May 18, 2021 02:40 PM
Spaznaut
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
8
Jul 19, 2020 12:49 PM
jprix
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
5
Mar 9, 2011 08:00 PM