Intake heat bypass diaphragm
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
No, But new ones were available back in the day...and it may still be available try calling the dealer part number CX-898
https://www.ebay.com/p/1155898731
https://www.ebay.com/p/1168411156
https://www.ebay.com/p/1155898731
https://www.ebay.com/p/1168411156
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 44
Likes: 3
Yup still available new
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mo...gm+motor,10207
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mo...gm+motor,10207
No, But new ones were available back in the day...and it may still be available try calling the dealer part number CX-898
https://www.ebay.com/p/1155898731
https://www.ebay.com/p/1168411156
https://www.ebay.com/p/1155898731
https://www.ebay.com/p/1168411156
Freaking sweet guys thanks
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,997
Likes: 2,742
From: Virginia
That piece will be important if you drive your truck in the winter where it gets cold. I see you live in CA. It gets cold in some places correct? That is considered part of the emissions system, but it sure makes it run better in the winter.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 44
Likes: 3
now does anyone have a part number for the thermal valve the warm air diverter uses for vacuum?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 44
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
If you find a new vacuum switch, or try to get the old one working, I found out it matters which port is the vacuum source and which port goes to the actuator. If you get them backwards, it will activate the flapper valve and never release it. When it's right, it will actually modulate the valve in midway positions also, it's more than a switch.
They usually put a doo-hickey in the line to the actuator also. I am not sure, but I am thinking this is a orifice to keep the valve somewhat steady if you dog the engine and the vacuum source goes high and then low. Not sure how important that would be.
They usually put a doo-hickey in the line to the actuator also. I am not sure, but I am thinking this is a orifice to keep the valve somewhat steady if you dog the engine and the vacuum source goes high and then low. Not sure how important that would be.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 44
Likes: 3
If you find a new vacuum switch, or try to get the old one working, I found out it matters which port is the vacuum source and which port goes to the actuator. If you get them backwards, it will activate the flapper valve and never release it. When it's right, it will actually modulate the valve in midway positions also, it's more than a switch.
They usually put a doo-hickey in the line to the actuator also. I am not sure, but I am thinking this is a orifice to keep the valve somewhat steady if you dog the engine and the vacuum source goes high and then low. Not sure how important that would be.
They usually put a doo-hickey in the line to the actuator also. I am not sure, but I am thinking this is a orifice to keep the valve somewhat steady if you dog the engine and the vacuum source goes high and then low. Not sure how important that would be.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
IIRC, that is the exact part for an 83 4.9. I can't think why it would be different in other engines.
Are you planning on running both actuators/motors from one of those regulators? If so, it will probably be fine initially and when warm, but the intermediate positions may be less than optimal. This is because there is a calibrated leak in the system to get one flapper "just right" at mid range temperatures. Add a second motor, and the balance will change.
Your winters are similar to ours here in Houston. I doubt my truck stays fully open for more than 5 minutes, and it probably has minimal impact after that.
Are you planning on running both actuators/motors from one of those regulators? If so, it will probably be fine initially and when warm, but the intermediate positions may be less than optimal. This is because there is a calibrated leak in the system to get one flapper "just right" at mid range temperatures. Add a second motor, and the balance will change.
Your winters are similar to ours here in Houston. I doubt my truck stays fully open for more than 5 minutes, and it probably has minimal impact after that.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 44
Likes: 3
IIRC, that is the exact part for an 83 4.9. I can't think why it would be different in other engines.
Are you planning on running both actuators/motors from one of those regulators? If so, it will probably be fine initially and when warm, but the intermediate positions may be less than optimal. This is because there is a calibrated leak in the system to get one flapper "just right" at mid range temperatures. Add a second motor, and the balance will change.
Are you planning on running both actuators/motors from one of those regulators? If so, it will probably be fine initially and when warm, but the intermediate positions may be less than optimal. This is because there is a calibrated leak in the system to get one flapper "just right" at mid range temperatures. Add a second motor, and the balance will change.
I have an 80 and I'm pretty sure my valve is just a open when cold closed when hot. And that's all I really need it to do. I put my new warm air bypass on and im not getting enough vacuum to close it. I'm assuming cuz the bimetal valve isn't functioning properly or is just clogged.