Need help to identify harness bracket
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 101
Likes: 18
From: Washington
UPDATE: Making progress on the ford, been really busy haven't had much time to mess with it. spent about an hour on it Saturday morning found out my starter power wire gauge is way to small and it looked fried and the wire coating was melted, so I replaced that with a new one and cleaned the connection areas for that. cleaned all the power and ground connections at the battery- and to chassis and the wires to the starter solenoid. so that's where I got so far. I went to fire up the truck and it started right up no hesitation and the amp meter is working perfectly, and at idle I was getting 13.5-13.7 volts and before I was idling at 12.3-12.6. after about an hour long drive I get home and it didn't want to start. turned over real slow then came to a stop. I still have some grounds to clean up and check the condition. moving along slowly but I'm getting where.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 954
From: Tri Cities, TN
You might want to remove that starter and have it tested or just replace it. The Ford type starters draw a tremendous amount of amperage. If anything in there is worn it will draw even more.. The normal amp draw is 250 amps. They can draw as much as 500 to 600 amps if they get worn out. Which would account for your melted cable.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 101
Likes: 18
From: Washington
it might be.. there’s a couple toggle switches on the dash I’ve been waiting for the right moment to flip haha.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 101
Likes: 18
From: Washington
as for getting rid of it, what steps do I take? Do I trace the wires that are going to it and find out what they’re for? Or just remove that piece and any wire going to it and call it good from there?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 101
Likes: 18
From: Washington
could be something for trailer brakes. By the screws left under the dash it looks like a brake controller was installed at some point and the uhual 4 pin and the 7 pine plugs on the rear bumper which are all cut as well haha.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,040
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From: Seattle
Some of the older brake controller systems were pretty wild. This one reminds me of the type that had you "T" the hydraulic line coming out of the master cylinder and run the brake fluid through another line inside the cab to the sensitive electronic signal controller. The controller then passed the electrical signal back out the firewall to the rheostat that you would adjust manually ahead of time which connected to the wiring running to the rear of the truck. You'd adjust the rheostat on the inner fender and take it down the road a ways with your trailer. If you found you needed a bit more or less braking you'd pull over, pop the hood and readjust the rheostat and on your way again. Not as easy as some of the plug in systems these days. It is old school.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 101
Likes: 18
From: Washington
Some of the older brake controller systems were pretty wild. This one reminds me of the type that had you "T" the hydraulic line coming out of the master cylinder and run the brake fluid through another line inside the cab to the sensitive electronic signal controller. The controller then passed the electrical signal back out the firewall to the rheostat that you would adjust manually ahead of time which connected to the wiring running to the rear of the truck. You'd adjust the rheostat on the inner fender and take it down the road a ways with your trailer. If you found you needed a bit more or less braking you'd pull over, pop the hood and readjust the rheostat and on your way again. Not as easy as some of the plug in systems these days. It is old school.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 101
Likes: 18
From: Washington
Update:
1am over here and just finished with the ford for the night. got home from work and threw on my new starter I got this morning and I’ve never heard this ford turn over so well.
now starter is fixed, asking because a sticker on the starter. Should I change out the starter solenoid too?
now starter is fixed, asking because a sticker on the starter. Should I change out the starter solenoid too?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I got a new junction box, one from eBay. Not an oem one. Plugged the wires in and the amp gauge is acting like an rpm gauge. It moves however the does. Any ideas what to check?
here’s a back story- when I got the truck everything worked as it should. One day driving home, volts were reading through the roof blew out dash lights. I didn’t know what happened so I replaced voltage regulator, alternator and battery. Sense then the volts gauge hasn’t worked correctly and then I noticed the junction box was broken so I thought that is why my volt gauge isn’t working. And now my alternator isn’t charging the battery. After a day of driving it won’t start back up. It’ll act like a dead battery. But if I park and try and to start it up in the morning it’ll start up just fine as if the battery is charged.
here’s a back story- when I got the truck everything worked as it should. One day driving home, volts were reading through the roof blew out dash lights. I didn’t know what happened so I replaced voltage regulator, alternator and battery. Sense then the volts gauge hasn’t worked correctly and then I noticed the junction box was broken so I thought that is why my volt gauge isn’t working. And now my alternator isn’t charging the battery. After a day of driving it won’t start back up. It’ll act like a dead battery. But if I park and try and to start it up in the morning it’ll start up just fine as if the battery is charged.
1965/79 F100/350 and etc trucks
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