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Our 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L has always had a little oil leak since about 150,000 miles. It has 240,000 miles on it now and seems to be getting worse for a while now...about 2 quarts or so every 1,000 miles. The HPOP lines seem dry at both ends of each of them. I'm not sure what to look for as far as the HPOP leaking other than oil in the front of the valley...which there is but I think there is more in the back. I am suspecting the turbo pedestal o-rings and/or the EBPV rod. I can't seem to get in there and verify fresh oil...so I'd appreciate some help with that relative to a good approach to get a look at it. The dog house on the drivers valve cover looks dry but I need to look at it again and see if there's any issues with the hose that connects it to the intake tube. I've never been into the engine and it still has the original CAC pipe connections. I do also suspect those to be somewhat leaking in that for about the last year and/or 12,000 miles I get a whining noise if I get into the throttle hard and the truck will somewhat fall on it's face, like a boost leak. The turbo wheel looks fairly good with no slop, and the up pipes may be leaking a little, but not much. I can take more pictures if need be to try and narrow this leak down...
The best thing you can do is clean everything really good with simple green then stuff wads of paper towels up underneath the hpop, under the hpop hoses , under pedestal etc. Then run the truck for a bit, pull the paper towels out one by one and look for fresh oil on them. Being that the truck has been leaking for so long there could be multiple leaks so cleaning everything real good is the best way to verify where the leak(s) are coming from. The CAC boots are known to excrete oil so clean those up too, and tighten all the clamps.
If you clean, look, clean, look and still cannot find the leak, you can invest in an endoscope similar to the one linked below. I bought one of these about a year ago in order to find an elusive oil leak and after ruling out the pedestal o-rings with the high definition camera I was able to find the leak.
From what I see in the photos, considering the oil is under high pressure, you don't have a leak squirting out 2 quarts of oil in 1000 miles, as there should be a wet puddle of oil somewhere.
As the others have said, clean the engine so you can find the leaks.
This is a 20 year old truck.... ever replaced the o-rings on the injectors ? Not sure how much oil would be lost with bad injector o-rings... .
From what I see in the photos, considering the oil is under high pressure, you don't have a leak squirting out 2 quarts of oil in 1000 miles, as there should be a wet puddle of oil somewhere.
As the others have said, clean the engine so you can find the leaks.
This is a 20 year old truck.... ever replaced the o-rings on the injectors ? Not sure how much oil would be lost with bad injector o-rings... .
There is puddles of oil in the valley and caked oil on the turbo pedestal. If I had a bad o-ring that would show up elsewhere.
Got it cleaned up this afternoon...that Purple Power is amazing!
I cleaned everything up yesterday, then getting it drained, and let it dry overnight. So I drove it around a bit today and it appears the leak is coming from the front as I see some fresh oil coming off the lines and/or fittings that go into the HPOP and maybe some on the IPR. I cannot get a look at the non serviceable plug on the bottom. Any input on that plug would be appreciated!
The turbo pedestal does look dry, though it has caked oil residue on it. I will continue to keep an eye on that area for fresh oil since it is somewhat clean.
Sounds like a good time to change those hpop lines and fittings if they haven't been done yet. Hpop lines are known to burst and make a absolute mess out of the engine bay. Riffraff or cnc fab make quality lines with jic fittings. Or you could just change the hpop fitting orings depending on where the leak is coming from.
Sounds like a good time to change those hpop lines and fittings if they haven't been done yet. Hpop lines are known to burst and make a absolute mess out of the engine bay. Riffraff or cnc fab make quality lines with jic fittings. Or you could just change the hpop fitting orings depending on where the leak is coming from.
They aren't leaking at the heads and I need to take a closer look at the connections to the HPOP as more worried about that non serviceable plug given read it likes to leak...
So in looking around at the replacement lines available...most are rated at 5k psi versus the 3k psi stockers. It appears the replacement line kits don't have the quick disconnects, but rather a simple screw in with an o-ring fitting. If that's the case, I would think there would be no need for the quick disconnect tool since one could simply take the fittings loose that attach to the heads and/or hpop. Is that correct?
So in looking around at the replacement lines available...most are rated at 5k psi versus the 3k psi stockers. It appears the replacement line kits don't have the quick disconnects, but rather a simple screw in with an o-ring fitting. If that's the case, I would think there would be no need for the quick disconnect tool since one could simply take the fittings loose that attach to the heads and/or hpop. Is that correct?
correct. I would highly recommend going with Riff Raff or CNC fab for your replacement lines. Some of the stuff on eBay and Amazon are junk and will not last.
correct. I would highly recommend going with Riff Raff or CNC fab for your replacement lines. Some of the stuff on eBay and Amazon are junk and will not last.
This is very sound advice. The HPOP hoses are one of the parts that can make a big mess in under a second and leave you stranded on the side of the road.
I bought upgraded OEM hoses a few years ago with new fittings on the heads and HPOP and am happy with them. The Riffraff JIC hoses were not in production yet. I like Corey and CNC Fab and have been a customer of his many times, but I refuse to install bare braided lines under the hood. A previous engine platform steered me from that due to a catastrophic failure where the hose acted like a saw.
I could wrap them myself, but I could also go with another choice that is tested and proven. Which is what I did. No regrets thus far.
I would highly recommend the basic HPOP o-ring kit here since likely at least one of these o-rings is leaking......https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/hpop-...t-w-7-o-rings/
I would also replace all of them at the same time. Reason I say that is because you have to drain the HPOP when replacing any of them. Some fittings you have to get clean and dry to add some loctite compound. First go around I replaced just a couple of o-rings in the kit only to find out that more of the fittings were leaking too. So had to repeat the process again. Better just to knock it out one time.
