I screwed up, bad
#1
I screwed up, bad
I just bought a truck today a 99 F250 4x4 superduty 5.4 triton the Ole it's been sitting because we used it to just plow snow so I fired it up and drove it around it Def needed a tune up it would barely pull its *** around the yard and had no bad knocks or anything that really threw up any red flags so I got it home changed all the fluids and fired it up to listen to see what the issues were and BOOM loud *** knock! Feels like coming from driver side it is intermittent does it when cold and when higher ram I am pretty sure it's spun bearings but I am not a mechanic I do have a code reader even tho no check engine light and it has a misfire in the 4 8 and the 2 are misfiring I don't know what to do and i feel like a fool plus I cannot find any info online please help man I knew this truck needed work and I expected that but think I got ****ed. Can anyone post some video links to help diagnose this issue or how to remove oil pan so I can check to see of bearings are toast? Thanks!
Last edited by Andrew Beeson; 05-01-2021 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Left reason for posting out
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#4
#5
The engine knocking is probably due to the fact you have 2 cylinders not firing. More likely the coil on plugs, bad/old gas, spark plugs, or maybe gummed up injectors. Did you knock loose any vacuum lines, forget to connect a plug, etc?
I'd make sure the coil on plug connectors are on tight (they tend to break and can come loose). Try moving the coil on plug to different cylinders and see if the misfire code goes to a different cylinder.
How many miles on this engine?
I'd make sure the coil on plug connectors are on tight (they tend to break and can come loose). Try moving the coil on plug to different cylinders and see if the misfire code goes to a different cylinder.
How many miles on this engine?
#7
I Think I figured it out!?
I have done my due diligence and research but I still need some help getting over the finish line, first of I have a 99 f 250 super duty with the 2 valve 5.4 that is notorious for timing issues which would explain all of my issues, its way underpowered rough idle and then just dies and an intermittent hollow knocking sound coming from the right side in the very front of the engine I can feeli it when I put my hand on valve cover I am having a hard time finding any videos that have the noises I am looking for as a diagnosis there are a ton of videos on how to fix all the timing issues but none of them have the different sounds to tell what exactly this is if you have any good links can you post them also if this is a timing issue some say that it can never really be fixed is this true? Is the motor really trashed? I would like to honestly know before I take it somewhere and get ripped off time and time again thanks for all your help!
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#8
Buy a timing light and follow the instructions for starters.
Sorry I personally have not touched one in over 30 years..
Or mark the distributor position very well.
Loosen hold down bolt. Rotate distributor a few degrees in clockwise direction.
Try and start vehicle.
If that doesn't work, rotate distributor back to the original mark,
then rotate slightly in counter clockwise direction of first rotation. Try and start vehicle.
Sorry I personally have not touched one in over 30 years..
Or mark the distributor position very well.
Loosen hold down bolt. Rotate distributor a few degrees in clockwise direction.
Try and start vehicle.
If that doesn't work, rotate distributor back to the original mark,
then rotate slightly in counter clockwise direction of first rotation. Try and start vehicle.
Last edited by marksman76; 05-02-2021 at 10:46 PM. Reason: clarity
#9
#10
I can repeat to check the coil on plugs (COP) on the 2 cylinders you're getting a misfire at. Pull them off, inspect them, you can use an ohmmeter to check them, or just move them to different cylinders to see if the codes change. Check the spark plugs, make sure they haven't blown out. If those check out, look for vacuum leaks. If no vacuum leaks, pull the mass air flow meter (MAF) and clean it with the correct MAF cleaning spray. Clean throttle body. Clean idle air control valve. Verify ~40psi at the fuel rail....
If you are getting misfires, then start simple at those cylinders, don't go tear down the entire engine to check for a timing issue that most likely doesn't exist. These engines use timing chains, not belts, also do not use distributors so there is no easy timing adjustment.
Lastly, there is a forum dedicated to these motors, I would post over there for some better replies.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum48/
(Also, try using google search with "site:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum48/ engine misfire" )
If you are getting misfires, then start simple at those cylinders, don't go tear down the entire engine to check for a timing issue that most likely doesn't exist. These engines use timing chains, not belts, also do not use distributors so there is no easy timing adjustment.
Lastly, there is a forum dedicated to these motors, I would post over there for some better replies.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum48/
(Also, try using google search with "site:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum48/ engine misfire" )
#11
Some states have a return for refund law even for private sale if the engine or tranny should fail within X amount of days. If your state has such a law then you have the option of returning the truck for a full refund. You will not be entitled to a refund for the fluids you put in it. In fact you probably shouldn't even mention the fluid changes because they could say you caused the damage.
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