Vacuum hoses and emissions - what can I remove?
I would not cut the ECU connector off, and I would not cut the wires either except the few that you have to. I would unplug the ECU connector, and fish it through the firewall whole. It fit through on my Bronco, they had a large rubber piece that went around the wiring and sealed it. Just push that rubber piece through and the ECU plug will fit through the large hole in the firewall if you kink the wires around on the connector.
On mine I remember the main power relay was under the dash near the computer that powered the ECU system. I think I remember there may have been a wire or two that I had to cut and tape up, but the majority when through with the connector.
Then once you are on the firewall side, it's pretty self-explanatory. You will find most wires go to connectors that you have already unplugged. There may be a few wires that are tied into the harness. Make note of these and cut them off the ECU wiring. You can use masking tape to mark them to help you remember what went were in case you make a mistake.
On mine I remember the main power relay was under the dash near the computer that powered the ECU system. I think I remember there may have been a wire or two that I had to cut and tape up, but the majority when through with the connector.
Then once you are on the firewall side, it's pretty self-explanatory. You will find most wires go to connectors that you have already unplugged. There may be a few wires that are tied into the harness. Make note of these and cut them off the ECU wiring. You can use masking tape to mark them to help you remember what went were in case you make a mistake.
The ECU connector inside the truck for the computer, pull wire back to that and cut them off but do not just cut the ECU (computor) connector off inside the truck.
You can cut the wire off the connectors where ever you like. I tend to cut them about 2"-3" back from the connector so I can reuse the pins or the pig tail if I need too and still have good lengths of wire on hand for whatever. But you can cut them off where ever.
You can cut the wire off the connectors where ever you like. I tend to cut them about 2"-3" back from the connector so I can reuse the pins or the pig tail if I need too and still have good lengths of wire on hand for whatever. But you can cut them off where ever.
ECU and other plug pulled through the firewall
The two orange wires, along with a red that goes behind the engine came out of the harness.
The green wire.
The yellow to red wire at the starter solenoid came out of the harness
The o2 sensor wire
This connector came out of the harness
These pigtails on the left came out of the harness.
What do I do with all of these wires that are no longer connected to anything?
Oh Brother I wish you had NOT fished the ECU plug through the firewall there were very specific reasons I had to ask for that NOT to be done.. And I do seem to recall telling you leave it in place and fish back to it....
Dave has a habit of commenting on every single post to add his 2 cents regardless is he has a clue or not and even when he has zero and no clue WTF he is talking about. Not the first time has caused an absolute cluster either.
Ok starting from scratch now.
Post another picture of the underhood fender to fender rad support to the firewall.
I need to see all that you have done as you pulled out the oil pressure sensor wire and the AC cycling switch. And who knows what else.
Dave has a habit of commenting on every single post to add his 2 cents regardless is he has a clue or not and even when he has zero and no clue WTF he is talking about. Not the first time has caused an absolute cluster either.
Ok starting from scratch now.
Post another picture of the underhood fender to fender rad support to the firewall.
I need to see all that you have done as you pulled out the oil pressure sensor wire and the AC cycling switch. And who knows what else.
Oh Brother I wish you had NOT fished the ECU plug through the firewall there were very specific reasons I had to ask for that NOT to be done.. And I do seem to recall telling you leave it in place and fish back to it....
Dave has a habit of commenting on every single post to add his 2 cents regardless is he has a clue or not and even when he has zero and no clue WTF he is talking about. Not the first time has caused an absolute cluster either.
Ok starting from scratch now.
Post another picture of the underhood fender to fender rad support to the firewall.
I need to see all that you have done as you pulled out the oil pressure sensor wire and the AC cycling switch. And who knows what else.
Dave has a habit of commenting on every single post to add his 2 cents regardless is he has a clue or not and even when he has zero and no clue WTF he is talking about. Not the first time has caused an absolute cluster either.
Ok starting from scratch now.
Post another picture of the underhood fender to fender rad support to the firewall.
I need to see all that you have done as you pulled out the oil pressure sensor wire and the AC cycling switch. And who knows what else.
Oh Brother I wish you had NOT fished the ECU plug through the firewall there were very specific reasons I had to ask for that NOT to be done.. And I do seem to recall telling you leave it in place and fish back to it....
Dave has a habit of commenting on every single post to add his 2 cents regardless is he has a clue or not and even when he has zero and no clue WTF he is talking about. Not the first time has caused an absolute cluster either.
Ok starting from scratch now.
Post another picture of the underhood fender to fender rad support to the firewall.
I need to see all that you have done as you pulled out the oil pressure sensor wire and the AC cycling switch. And who knows what else.
Dave has a habit of commenting on every single post to add his 2 cents regardless is he has a clue or not and even when he has zero and no clue WTF he is talking about. Not the first time has caused an absolute cluster either.
Ok starting from scratch now.
Post another picture of the underhood fender to fender rad support to the firewall.
I need to see all that you have done as you pulled out the oil pressure sensor wire and the AC cycling switch. And who knows what else.
I have the wires separated into those that are connected out of the harness and those that are not.
Oh Brother I wish you had NOT fished the ECU plug through the firewall there were very specific reasons I had to ask for that NOT to be done.. And I do seem to recall telling you leave it in place and fish back to it....
Dave has a habit of commenting on every single post to add his 2 cents regardless is he has a clue or not and even when he has zero and no clue WTF he is talking about. Not the first time has caused an absolute cluster either.
Ok starting from scratch now.
Post another picture of the underhood fender to fender rad support to the firewall.
I need to see all that you have done as you pulled out the oil pressure sensor wire and the AC cycling switch. And who knows what else.
Dave has a habit of commenting on every single post to add his 2 cents regardless is he has a clue or not and even when he has zero and no clue WTF he is talking about. Not the first time has caused an absolute cluster either.
Ok starting from scratch now.
Post another picture of the underhood fender to fender rad support to the firewall.
I need to see all that you have done as you pulled out the oil pressure sensor wire and the AC cycling switch. And who knows what else.
Solenoid connections that were unplugged
Old dist. connector
These were all disconnected and laying loose when I got it.
Yes Cut under hood and fish back Kinda late now though, as the stuff that was under dash is now disconnected from the ECU harness. So now that it has been done it will make next to impossible to salvage any of what would have been switched accessory power circuits.
Since you pulled the ECU connector might as well just pull it back out and start pulling wires.
I'll Give you some Pin numbers and you can pull out working from the ECU conector outwards.
Pin 20 ECU ground
Pin 29 and 49 O2 sensor
Pin 16 TFI ground
Pin 56 TFI
Pin 36 TFI
Pin 5 TFI
Pin 48 Selt test conector.
Pin 10 Pull remove what is left, this was tied into the AC system and it now will not work. We will have to restore this back to operation later on.
Pin 45 Map Sensor
Pin 46 ECT and TPS and Carb Feed Back Motor (Ground)
Pin 7 ECT
Pin 47 TPS
Pin 26 Map and TPS
Pin 41 Carb Feed Back Motor
Pin 21 Carb Feed Back Motor
Pin 28 Carb Feed Back Motor
Ok the next ones are one group all together Cut the wires off the Connectors
Pin 11 Thermactor Solenoid
Pin 35 Canister Purge solinoid.
Pin 51 Thermactor Solenoid
Pin 53 EGR Solenoid
Pin 58 Feedback Solenoid
Once the above wires are cut from the connectors the red wires left on the conectors are power wires they will all splice together Also in this splice will be
Pins 57 and 37
In this splice, there should be 8 wires 7 go to the ECU and one to the ECU relay. Remove all the wires to the splice and cut off, EXCEPT the one wire for the ECU relay that goes to the relay connector
If on the small chance the relay connector is still in the vehicle you could use this red wire as a switched relayed fused power source.
Please advise if this relay connector is in the vehicle or has been pulled out.
The rest of the tear-out progression will depend on where this connector currently is.
There is still a pile of stuff to remove but you have done most of the ECU wiring tear out.
Please provide a new under pic once this is done. AGAIN I need to see the tops of both fenders the fire wall and the rad support in the pic so I can see the WHOLE engine compartment.
Yes Cut under hood and fish back Kinda late now though, as the stuff that was under dash is now disconnected from the ECU harness. So now that it has been done it will make next to impossible to salvage any of what would have been switched accessory power circuits.
Since you pulled the ECU connector might as well just pull it back out and start pulling wires.
I'll Give you some Pin numbers and you can pull out working from the ECU conector outwards.
Pin 20 ECU Ground
Pin 29 and 49 O2 Seinsor
Pin 16 TFI ground
Pin 56 TFI
Pin 36 TFI
Pin 5 TFI
Pin 48 Selt test conector.
Pin 10 Pull remove what is left, this was tied into the AC system and it now will not work. We will have to restore this back to operation later on.
Pin 45 Map Sensor
Pin 46 ECT and TPS and Carb Feed Back Motor (Ground)
Pin 7 ECT
Pin 47 TPS
Pin 26 Map and TPS
Pin 41 Carb Feed Back Motor
Pin 21 Carb Feed Back Motor
Pin 28 Carb Feed Back Motor
Ok the next ones are one group all together Cut the wires off the Connectors
Pin 11 Thermactor Solenoid
Pin 35 Canister Purge solinoid.
Pin 51 Thermactor Solenoid
Pin 53 EGR Solenoid
Pin 58 Feedback Solenoid
Once the above wires are cut from the connectors the red wires are power wires they will all splice togther Also in the splice will be
Pins 57 and 37
In this splice, there should be 8 wires 7 go to the ECU and one to the ECU relay. Remove all to the splice.
leave the one wire for the ECU relay on the Relat connecor
If on the small chance the relay connector is still in the vehicle you could use this red wire as a switched relayed fused power source.
Please advise if this relay connector is in the vehicle or has been pulled out.
The rest of the tear-out progression will depend on where this connector cutrrently is.
There is still a pile of stuff to remove but you have done most of the ECU wiring tear out.
Please provide a new under pic once this is done. AGAIN I need to see the tops of both fenders the fire wall and the rad support in the pic so I can see the WHOLE engine compartment.
Since you pulled the ECU connector might as well just pull it back out and start pulling wires.
I'll Give you some Pin numbers and you can pull out working from the ECU conector outwards.
Pin 20 ECU Ground
Pin 29 and 49 O2 Seinsor
Pin 16 TFI ground
Pin 56 TFI
Pin 36 TFI
Pin 5 TFI
Pin 48 Selt test conector.
Pin 10 Pull remove what is left, this was tied into the AC system and it now will not work. We will have to restore this back to operation later on.
Pin 45 Map Sensor
Pin 46 ECT and TPS and Carb Feed Back Motor (Ground)
Pin 7 ECT
Pin 47 TPS
Pin 26 Map and TPS
Pin 41 Carb Feed Back Motor
Pin 21 Carb Feed Back Motor
Pin 28 Carb Feed Back Motor
Ok the next ones are one group all together Cut the wires off the Connectors
Pin 11 Thermactor Solenoid
Pin 35 Canister Purge solinoid.
Pin 51 Thermactor Solenoid
Pin 53 EGR Solenoid
Pin 58 Feedback Solenoid
Once the above wires are cut from the connectors the red wires are power wires they will all splice togther Also in the splice will be
Pins 57 and 37
In this splice, there should be 8 wires 7 go to the ECU and one to the ECU relay. Remove all to the splice.
leave the one wire for the ECU relay on the Relat connecor
If on the small chance the relay connector is still in the vehicle you could use this red wire as a switched relayed fused power source.
Please advise if this relay connector is in the vehicle or has been pulled out.
The rest of the tear-out progression will depend on where this connector cutrrently is.
There is still a pile of stuff to remove but you have done most of the ECU wiring tear out.
Please provide a new under pic once this is done. AGAIN I need to see the tops of both fenders the fire wall and the rad support in the pic so I can see the WHOLE engine compartment.
Can I not just cut off these connectors, pull the wires into the truck and cut them off at the ECU?
I'm about to the point where I'll just leave it all, put it in the conduit so it's not just laying around, and say screw it.
The ECU is plugged in along with the relay under the dash. I haven't removed anything from them.
Can I not just cut off these connectors, pull the wires into the truck and cut them off at the ECU?
I'm about to the point where I'll just leave it all, put it in the conduit so it's not just laying around, and say screw it.
Can I not just cut off these connectors, pull the wires into the truck and cut them off at the ECU?
I'm about to the point where I'll just leave it all, put it in the conduit so it's not just laying around, and say screw it.
If you can find the wires then pull them in the truck and cut them off But be aware some other stuff is fed by them Example you have AC tied into this you have the main power for the truck tied into it.
Just make sure you cutting the right stuff
You will have pile hot wires just cut off and bundled up under the hood if you leave them some being hot, that is a fire waiting to happen.
This is really simple and is just a matter of going step by step. I have done dozens and dozens of these on trucks and cars over the years the 4.9 is idiot simple to do and probably the simplest of all of them. You should see the mess that later 351W Panthers with the VV are, there is literally 50lbs of equipment and wiring that comes out.
When this done it will look factory and work like factory and be as reliable (more actually) as factory.
And want to see what happens when do not do it correctly and just tear it out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ical-help.html
Mathew is making this more difficult that it needs to be. You do not need to know all those pin numbers. There is a power wire to the relay, that is the only one and possibly a ground that will need to be cut and taped off. The relay leaves with the ECU. If you need a power accessory wire, you can easily go to the fuse box like every other truck owner does.
You were on your way, you had the plug through the firewall and you commented that you observed that most of the wires went to empty plugs. So besides weaving the wires out of the harness that will stay, it all just comes right out. I think there may have been a wire or two on the driver's side fender that was incorporated into the regular harness. If you run into that, you can just cut the wire and tape it in the harness. You are correct, the computer is leaving, so anything that went to the computer can leave.
You were on your way, you had the plug through the firewall and you commented that you observed that most of the wires went to empty plugs. So besides weaving the wires out of the harness that will stay, it all just comes right out. I think there may have been a wire or two on the driver's side fender that was incorporated into the regular harness. If you run into that, you can just cut the wire and tape it in the harness. You are correct, the computer is leaving, so anything that went to the computer can leave.
NO you should not "just cut off these connectors, pull the wires into the truck and cut them off at the ECU" cause some of the wires feed other items Example you have AC tied into this you have the main power for the truck tied into it plus you could have pile hot wires just cut off and bundled up under hood now there is fire waiting to happen.
This is really simple and is just a matter of going step by step. I have done dozens and dozens of these on trucks and cars over the years the 4.9 is idiot simple to do and probably the simplest of all of them. You should see the mess that later 351W Panthers with the VV are, there is literally 50lbs of equipment and wiring that comes out.
When this done it will look factory and work like factory and be as reliable (more actually) as factory.
And want to see what happens when do not do it correctly and just tear it out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ical-help.html
This is really simple and is just a matter of going step by step. I have done dozens and dozens of these on trucks and cars over the years the 4.9 is idiot simple to do and probably the simplest of all of them. You should see the mess that later 351W Panthers with the VV are, there is literally 50lbs of equipment and wiring that comes out.
When this done it will look factory and work like factory and be as reliable (more actually) as factory.
And want to see what happens when do not do it correctly and just tear it out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ical-help.html
did you see the pictures of the 3 groups of connectors I posted above? The solenoid connectors from the EEC, the old distributor connector, and the bundle of unused ones that are not connected to anything? They all go to the ECU. Some of them are spliced into other wires for a ground or power, but I’m not cutting the wires they are connected to. Does that make sense?
P.S. I think you might run into a power wire that comes from the starter solenoid area, and possibly a ground over there also. Same formula, cut, tape and then tape it into the wiring harness bundle. I think the power wire under the dash was the ignition trigger wire for the relay. The relay switched the power that comes from the starter solenoid area. Doesn't matter, just in case you are wondering what you are cutting.
Mathew is making this more difficult that it needs to be. You do not need to know all those pin numbers. There is a power wire to the relay, that is the only one and possibly a ground that will need to be cut and taped off. The relay leaves with the ECU. If you need a power accessory wire, you can easily go to the fuse box like every other truck owner does.
You were on your way, you had the plug through the firewall and you commented that you observed that most of the wires went to empty plugs. So besides weaving the wires out of the harness that will stay, it all just comes right out. I think there may have been a wire or two on the driver's side fender that was incorporated into the regular harness. If you run into that, you can just cut the wire and tape it in the harness. You are correct, the computer is leaving, so anything that went to the computer can leave.
You were on your way, you had the plug through the firewall and you commented that you observed that most of the wires went to empty plugs. So besides weaving the wires out of the harness that will stay, it all just comes right out. I think there may have been a wire or two on the driver's side fender that was incorporated into the regular harness. If you run into that, you can just cut the wire and tape it in the harness. You are correct, the computer is leaving, so anything that went to the computer can leave.
Oh brother and the peanut gallery speaks. STILL. Once again you have no clue what you are doing the system IS NOT just the ECU there is a pile more added on to it that is NOT just going to the ECU and will be left HOT and cut off. If you even had half a clue you would know that.. But hey it is quite obvious you have never done this job properly EVER.
I guess I’m confused by how I’m supposed to remove the unused wiring. The ones that I am trying to remove are not connected to anything else, and if the wire from the dead connectors splice into something else, then I would just remove that wire from the splice. I’m not talking about removing anything that is currently in use, AC, etc.
did you see the pictures of the 3 groups of connectors I posted above? The solenoid connectors from the EEC, the old distributor connector, and the bundle of unused ones that are not connected to anything? They all go to the ECU. Some of them are spliced into other wires for a ground or power, but I’m not cutting the wires they are connected to. Does that make sense?
did you see the pictures of the 3 groups of connectors I posted above? The solenoid connectors from the EEC, the old distributor connector, and the bundle of unused ones that are not connected to anything? They all go to the ECU. Some of them are spliced into other wires for a ground or power, but I’m not cutting the wires they are connected to. Does that make sense?
Yes it makes sense, that is also why I listed the items with the pin number so you can go from either end.
The TFI Conector and its wires can go
The Solenoid wires can go EGR Themactic etc
Some that require special handling are noted. Example Pin 10
There is also stuff like the Carb vent solenoid that does not tie into the ECU at all. So do not assume everything under hood goes to the ECU cause it does not but still may be part of the system.
We will cover the carb vent solenoid later on.
There are also odd ***** like Pin 17 that we never covered as it may or may not be utilized. I wanted to get the obvious stuff out of the way.







