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Well, after discovering I can turn the crank 6-7 degrees before my rotor moves (max tolerance is 2-3 degrees), it is time to replace the timing chain. I've got all the parts and know basically what is involved, but I wanted to ask if anyone had any tips or tricks to make the job go a little quicker. It will be on my ol' 87 with the 302. Thanks.
Only thing I can think of is if your gonna drop the oil pan use a one piece seal much easier if your gonna cut the end of the gasket be sure to use some rtv. YOu shouldn't have a problem, good luck
I'm getting ready to do the same job. Why do the instructions in the timing cover gasket tell you to cut the oil pan gasket?
If the engine is out, the pan is off, do you need to chop up that nice one piece silicon gasket?
fairflight
Those instructions are for those who are trying to change the cam with the oil pan still attached. In your case if the engine is out and the pan off then keep it one piece. Good luck
EPNCSU2006
They usually come right off so I don't have any suggestions that I can think of. Are you having any luck with it?
Yeah, I got the big bolt out. I don't know what's wrong, but I'm crankin down on the puller hard enough to make the truck move against the parking brake, yet I can't get the damper to budge.
Well stepman you were close. The person who changed the chain last got some rtv on the washer behind the big bolt, so it didn't come out. Once I pulled the washer out the damper came right off. Thanks you guys!
I swapped in a mustang computer (rewired the engine harness) and every time I hit the throttle (revving it) it would ping. Above say, 2500-3000 rpm, it ran excellent. I tested everything I could electrically, so I was pretty sure there wasn't a problem with the wiring or the computer. This was the mechanical thing that would allow timing to jump around, so it was the next thing to take a look at, at the recommendation of a friend who owns a local NAPA store.
Edit: even with the truck computer, if I lugged the motor in say 3rd gear, it would every now and then ping on one or two cylinders randomly. It wouldn't ping every rotation, just once or twice here and there like the timing was bouncing around.
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; Nov 2, 2003 at 11:45 AM.
I haven't gotten it all the way back together yet, so I have yet to determine if this fixed the problem. I broke one of the water pump bolts taking it apart, so I spent most of yesterday trying to get it out. I'm planning on working on it today, and hopefully I will be able to finish it. All that's left is to put the water pump and the accessories back on. I do know that the new chain hardly deflects at all, whereas the old one deflected about 1/2" or more.
Well, much to my disappointment, it still pings when I snap the throttle. It does seem to run more steady though. I'm working on calibrating the MAF and I'm going to check the computer in the near future as well. I can't get the computer to enter self test mode, so I'd like to have it checked and see if they know why. If the computer isn't recognizing the STO, which is also the Signal return wire, it won't pick up signals from TPS, BAP, and EVP, so there may be some promise in that route. Thanks for all your suggestions and help with the timing chain replacement.
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