e4od transmission
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2015
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e4od transmission
Hello. I just bought a 1995 f250 5.8 4x4. with 87,000 door sticker code is E .The check engine light is on. The overdrive light is flashing, (I don't recall it flashing until i disengaged the od button) but it didn't go off when I tried the button again. The low range light in dash is on, but the 4x4 light is not. It Is NOT in 4 drive. I engaged the 4 wheel and disengaged. it was hard to get out of 4x4. I drove the truck home. I started in drive but trans was slipping, so I drove it in 2. in 2nd gear it did not slip, that I noticed.
In drive when I got up to maybe 30 mph it was like i knocked it out of gear. I was hoping for some pointers. I had figured to tear down the trans and maybe rebuild, but I thought maybe I should ask, just in case. The fluid is full a purple color and does not smell burnt. The low range light gets brighter with higher rpms.
In drive when I got up to maybe 30 mph it was like i knocked it out of gear. I was hoping for some pointers. I had figured to tear down the trans and maybe rebuild, but I thought maybe I should ask, just in case. The fluid is full a purple color and does not smell burnt. The low range light gets brighter with higher rpms.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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First thing to do is perform the KOEO self test to check for fault codes. Tell use what codes you get and when you got them: active or stored.
On my Bronco II the 4 low light would dimly glow and it turned out to be a bad ground. I seems like your issue is also electrical. If you rebuild the trans but don’t find the electrical problem it will do the same thing.
On my Bronco II the 4 low light would dimly glow and it turned out to be a bad ground. I seems like your issue is also electrical. If you rebuild the trans but don’t find the electrical problem it will do the same thing.
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 6
First thing to do is perform the KOEO self test to check for fault codes. Tell use what codes you get and when you got them: active or stored.
On my Bronco II the 4 low light would dimly glow and it turned out to be a bad ground. I seems like your issue is also electrical. If you rebuild the trans but don’t find the electrical problem it will do the same thing.
On my Bronco II the 4 low light would dimly glow and it turned out to be a bad ground. I seems like your issue is also electrical. If you rebuild the trans but don’t find the electrical problem it will do the same thing.
thank you again
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,732
Likes: 2,660
From: SE Florida
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 16
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Codes 621- Shift solenoid 1 circuit failed,
637- Transmission temperature switch failure......... {637 troublecodes_net - TOT sensor is/was high or open}
553- Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD or AM-2) solenoid: circuit failure ..........{553 troublecodes_net - AIRD solenoid/circuit failure}
NOTE: The Low Range flickers and higher rpm's (neutral) gets brighter. The Radio works but the radio lights are not working. I'm sure they were when I drove the truck home. I have a new battery. I have not checked the voltage output on alt. yet. Truck coded running 157 (MAF) sensor signal went below . 4V .......so I'm thinking there is also an electrical problem.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,732
Likes: 2,660
From: SE Florida
You have two transmission electrical faults. Most electrical faults are due to wiring harness problems, and that goes way up when there are more than one electrical fault codes. You need to do an electrical diagnosis on the wiring between the PCM and the trans. You probably have a few damaged wires.
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2015
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You have two transmission electrical faults. Most electrical faults are due to wiring harness problems, and that goes way up when there are more than one electrical fault codes. You need to do an electrical diagnosis on the wiring between the PCM and the trans. You probably have a few damaged wires.
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,732
Likes: 2,660
From: SE Florida
You'll never find a bad wire by tracing it.
Get a meter. Disconnect the harness at the PCM and at the trans. While probing the BACK of each connector, check each wire for continuity from one end to another. Also check for continuity from each wire to a ground and to power. If you find a bad wire it's usually easier to run a new wire than to try and fix what's there.
Get a meter. Disconnect the harness at the PCM and at the trans. While probing the BACK of each connector, check each wire for continuity from one end to another. Also check for continuity from each wire to a ground and to power. If you find a bad wire it's usually easier to run a new wire than to try and fix what's there.
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2015
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Likes: 6
You'll never find a bad wire by tracing it.
Get a meter. Disconnect the harness at the PCM and at the trans. While probing the BACK of each connector, check each wire for continuity from one end to another. Also check for continuity from each wire to a ground and to power. If you find a bad wire it's usually easier to run a new wire than to try and fix what's there.
Get a meter. Disconnect the harness at the PCM and at the trans. While probing the BACK of each connector, check each wire for continuity from one end to another. Also check for continuity from each wire to a ground and to power. If you find a bad wire it's usually easier to run a new wire than to try and fix what's there.
On the OHM testing. Good! However, I may need to test from the PCM connection instead of the disconnect located on inner fender under brake booster.
I tested pins the for power. KOEO, I have power at the trans connect. I'll post the values and pin number tomorrow, I think it was 2 had 12V. 1 had 11.4 V. 1 had nothing, the rest were like a couple volts maybe. I'll make sure none of the pins were grounded tomorrow too.
Should I do a solenoid test? from what I understand I just OHM the pins as per instructions. The key off and test OHM from harness end?
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Trailering
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OK. The more I try to understand this the less I understand this.
KOEO test.
637 indicates the TFT Sensor output is greater than Self-Test maximum value of 4.8 volts.
621 Shift Solenoid 1: Symptoms Failure mode May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition
Tested Wires all with DMM. using sound. (maybe I double check reading ohms)
Solenoid OHM Test
Electronic pressure control solenoid. 4.8 ohm
1 Shift Sol. 19.4 ohm
2 Shift Sol. 19.7 ohm
Torque Con Clutch Sol 19.7 ohm
Coast Clutch Sol 19,4 ohm
I Think -----Specs EPC SOL.4- 6 OHMS Rest are 20 -30 ohm. I'm not sure if these are OK?
VOLTS from PCM- (checked pins at inline connector)
Power 12.1
Shift Sol 2- 9.6
Shift Sol 1 10.4
Torque Sol 4.5
Coast Sol 12.1
TFT sensor 5.8
Sig return 11.8
Ele Pressure control 1.3
EPCP 12.4
VOLTS from TRANS I ran a jump wire from PCM to power in pin 1
Shift Sol 2- 12.1
Shift Sol 1 12.1
Torque Sol 12.1
Coast Sol 12.1
TFT sensor 00
Sig return 00
Ele Pressure control 12.1
EPCP 12.1
Does Volts from trans look right?
NOTE: I also checked the voltage on wires trans side. I didn't post them cause I think I got the pin numbers wrong It was late NOW. after posting all this I realize theres a problem here.... PCM out put pin 5 is 12 V but I'm showing I had 0 reading at trans connector, also I think there's a problem with pin 7 and 8. I will double check. confused : I remember OHM testing wires for short against one another.
OK Does the TFTS get power from power in pin 1?
thinking problem is 7 and 8 ? I'll retest
KOEO test.
637 indicates the TFT Sensor output is greater than Self-Test maximum value of 4.8 volts.
621 Shift Solenoid 1: Symptoms Failure mode May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition
Tested Wires all with DMM. using sound. (maybe I double check reading ohms)
Solenoid OHM Test
Electronic pressure control solenoid. 4.8 ohm
1 Shift Sol. 19.4 ohm
2 Shift Sol. 19.7 ohm
Torque Con Clutch Sol 19.7 ohm
Coast Clutch Sol 19,4 ohm
I Think -----Specs EPC SOL.4- 6 OHMS Rest are 20 -30 ohm. I'm not sure if these are OK?
VOLTS from PCM- (checked pins at inline connector)
Power 12.1
Shift Sol 2- 9.6
Shift Sol 1 10.4
Torque Sol 4.5
Coast Sol 12.1
TFT sensor 5.8
Sig return 11.8
Ele Pressure control 1.3
EPCP 12.4
VOLTS from TRANS I ran a jump wire from PCM to power in pin 1
Shift Sol 2- 12.1
Shift Sol 1 12.1
Torque Sol 12.1
Coast Sol 12.1
TFT sensor 00
Sig return 00
Ele Pressure control 12.1
EPCP 12.1
Does Volts from trans look right?
NOTE: I also checked the voltage on wires trans side. I didn't post them cause I think I got the pin numbers wrong It was late NOW. after posting all this I realize theres a problem here.... PCM out put pin 5 is 12 V but I'm showing I had 0 reading at trans connector, also I think there's a problem with pin 7 and 8. I will double check. confused : I remember OHM testing wires for short against one another.
OK Does the TFTS get power from power in pin 1?
thinking problem is 7 and 8 ? I'll retest
Last edited by music9704; Apr 17, 2021 at 09:24 PM.
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