6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Another hpop gone

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Old 04-09-2021, 01:47 PM
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Another hpop gone

Went to Napa to buy oil. Went out to crank, 165 psi on oil. Truck ran great till...... Been waiting on tow truck since 12:30 pm.
I guess I'll get it home and do an air test to confirm. Pretty sure it's Hpop but will test to make sure. Already ordered through XPD. Next day delivery. They told me I could send it back if that's not the problem. Will have to pay shipping. Another day in the life of a 6.0 owner.
 
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Old 04-09-2021, 01:52 PM
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Sorry to hear man. That's crazy that it didn't give any warning.

Based on your Avatar photo your truck is an 03/04?
 
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Old 04-09-2021, 02:53 PM
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Late 2004 cylinder style hpop. Just put one in about a year or so ago. Like I mentioned above I'm gonna run an air test to confirm. It just makes ya mad when you get no warning. My hpop readings where steady 643 or 5 at idle. All my readings where great. When I fired it up cold and at autozone, fired Wright up in about 1. 2 seconds. Hit Napa for ec coolant and rotella oil and no joy when I went to crank. Dummy plugs and pipes have already been done. So we'll see.
 
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Old 04-09-2021, 05:35 PM
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Well I guess I can almost count out hpop. Went out to start work, and for Chitsp and giggles I tried to start. It started Wright up. Took it out and got here up to temps and parked her to try and start. No luck. Cancelled hpop for now. I'll go out in the morning and do the air test I was gonna do today. Any idea's? Checked oil, seemed a little thin. I guess I could change oil and see if that helps. But it hasn't been no 10000 miles since my last change. Dummy plus and pipes have been done. 125000 miles doesn't seem like it would be injector problems. I guess I'll just start from beginning in the morning.
 
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Old 04-09-2021, 08:33 PM
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Hope you get it figured out, but it sounds like an o-ring went south on the stand pipe or dummy plug considering it starts when cold.

I am biting my time and totally regret not swapping it out new when I had the engine out.

Good luck
 
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Old 04-09-2021, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Visurveyor
Well I guess I can almost count out hpop. Went out to start work, and for Chitsp and giggles I tried to start. It started Wright up. Took it out and got here up to temps and parked her to try and start. No luck. Cancelled hpop for now. I'll go out in the morning and do the air test I was gonna do today. Any idea's? Checked oil, seemed a little thin. I guess I could change oil and see if that helps. But it hasn't been no 10000 miles since my last change. Dummy plus and pipes have been done. 125000 miles doesn't seem like it would be injector problems. I guess I'll just start from beginning in the morning.
It's either the IPR or the seal between the discharge tube and pump. Happened to me with a customer on a 2004 Excursion with an Adrenaline pump I installed after the original one failed. I called Dieselsite and even the HPOP Queen was shocked and had one ready to ship out next day for me. As soon as I replaced the seal, it cranked to build pressure then fired up no problem. Get the seal kit from Ford. The off brand ones will do that to you.

Another customer with a 2004 F350 came to me because it continually stalled when hot. You had to wait till the truck cooled off enough to start. Swapped the IPR with a known good IPR and it never stalled again.
 
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Old 04-10-2021, 08:22 AM
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The ugly culprit. Now I have to find the other little piece of oring. Hopefully!!
 
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Old 04-10-2021, 11:50 AM
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All back together. Runs great again, until next hiccup.
 
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Old 04-10-2021, 12:30 PM
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TD called it.
 
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Old 04-10-2021, 04:46 PM
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Very true. Diesel nailed it.
I got off easy. Went in and removed air assembly, degas and Ficm. Turbo crossover heat shield. Unhooked 6 and 8 injector connections, Ficm ground and intake bolt. Slide socket on. That's where it got tricky. Needed more umf to break loose. Breaker bar 3/8" end didn't line up to work. So I put wrachet back on and took a 3/4" property iron and slide on to break ipr loose. (Got Lucky) unhooked pigtail.
I was ready with test fitting, when I started looking at ipr. I hate to say it, but when I seen a deteriorated o-ring and spacer I was happy. Had one in tool box. Put it together. Bam.
Only thing makes me worry is I couldn't find or dig out any of the old oring or spacer. Looked in there with scope but didn't see anything that jumped out so I reinstalled. Truck runs great.
2.5 hrs of my time versus $1000.00 shop bill.
 
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Old 04-13-2021, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Visurveyor
Well I guess I can almost count out hpop. Went out to start work, and for Chitsp and giggles I tried to start. It started Wright up. Took it out and got here up to temps and parked her to try and start. No luck. Cancelled hpop for now. I'll go out in the morning and do the air test I was gonna do today. Any idea's? Checked oil, seemed a little thin. I guess I could change oil and see if that helps. But it hasn't been no 10000 miles since my last change. Dummy plus and pipes have been done. 125000 miles doesn't seem like it would be injector problems. I guess I'll just start from beginning in the morning.
My truck has similar symptoms. Oil pressure seems OK when cold but could not get it to start when warm. I pulled the IPR and found it to be ugly as well (huge hole in the screen). If it started before when cold and the IPR is definitely bad, is there some hope that the bleeding will stop there? Your thread suggests it's possible (I'm hoping that's the case with mine).

I'm trying to confirm health of the HPOP (see my thread here) but I'm not very familiar with these (to say not at all) and am concerned about putting it back together and ruining a perfectly good IPR valve. Any words of advice for a 6.0L noob? Thanks
 
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Old 04-13-2021, 03:11 PM
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copied from your other thread:

Originally Posted by bismic
Check for air leaking also at the CCV location (on the driver's side valve cover).

If there is no leak on the driver's side, then it may very well be only a dummy plug on the passenger side.

A hole in the IPR screen might mean that there is trash in the IPR that would hold it open. If there is nothing preventing the IPR valve from closing, then a hole in the screen would not cause a leak in the high pressure system. Neither would trash clogging up the screen (until the pressure pushed it through the screen and caused it to stick the IPR valve in the partially open position).
 
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Old 04-14-2021, 05:50 PM
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Dude mine did it the other day too!. Almost 2 years hiccup free. Shut down on me a mile from my shop

Which hpop did you end up with anyways?
 
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Old 04-14-2021, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Wilson
Dude mine did it the other day too!. Almost 2 years hiccup free. Shut down on me a mile from my shop

Which hpop did you end up with anyways?
Did you read this thread? Post #7 in particular.
 
  #15  
Old 04-14-2021, 07:07 PM
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Guys, Mark is correct on the above posts. A busted screen is not going to couse lack of pressure in your system. Stuck open IPR, yes. My issue was with a broke o-ring, witch when oil got hot it just flowed bye and didn't build pressure.
With the air test, take Marks advice with listening on all sides. Both ccv on driver and oil fill on passenger side. A bad Dummyplug is a whole lot easier than an Hpop. (and cheaper) If it is gurgling under oil filter housing after you eliminate dummyplugs and standpipes, good possibility that your hpop is toast. Good diagnostics can save you a lot of money. These guys are good, take heed in what they say.
 


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