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I have a 1987 F-150 5.0, auto, 4x4 that i am taking out the engine to replace head gaskets and re-surface the heads, replace the main seal and replace the flex plate. I need to replace the exhaust manifolds as one is cracked. The bolts are frozen so I am going to cut the pipes and take out the engine.
I am thinking about going with a set of headers instead of cast manifolds. I have the following questions:
1. Should I go with headers rather than manifolds? Pros/cons?
2. If I go with headers, what do you all recommend from experience as far as brand and style (shortie vs. long tubes)?
3. How can I identify what auto transmission I have?
4. Without going inside of the block, are there any upgrades, mods I can do to get a bit more power out of the engine? For example, If I have the machine shop shave the heads a bit more than simply resurface, can I increase the compression enough to make any difference? Is there a more efficient air intake system that makes a difference. I am already thinking about new exhaust without cats and more efficient mufflers.
1) I say Yes, I prefer Hedman, myself.
3) Check the sticker on the door pillar, it will have the Trans Code.
4) No. Not Really. The best upgrade to a stock 302 is probably changing the cam, but you're very limited in how much cam you can put in that truck, due to the PCM. If you change to something like a Pimp-X Computer, you can basically put as much cam in it as you want.
1) Long tube headers will make more power than shortys or stock manifolds, but will not bolt up to existing exhaust pipe.
2) The "Summit Racing" brand shortys are actually Pace Setters. Very good pieces, for a very low price point. A lot of the cheaper long tubes are hit and miss. Some swing too wide and hit the passenger side frame rail but can be massaged into working. The "Hooker" units are a very thin steel and I would not recommend them.
3) Trans code on the door jamb sticker, or compare the bolt pattern of the trans pan to pictures on the internet.
4) It would be cheaper and easier to find a junk yard 351w and swap it in, than to have the poor flowing heads machined for more compression.
If you're pulling the heads off then it's only a few more minutes work to get to the cam, and a cam is by far the single biggest bang for the buck upgrade on this vintage 5.0 easily producing quite a bit more power than any other exterior mod including exhaust. The cam to use is the Comp cams 31-255- 5 which plays nice with your EFI system.
Shortie truck headers are a bolt on with no other exhaust changes, longtubes are a complete exhaust system rebuild.
There are no bottlenecks on the intake side of this motor.
Thanks for all the info. I will consider the cam swap. Do I need a new set of lifters and push rods? Do I have to flash the computer?
The door tag describes the transmission as "T." Mostly from info on the internet, it seems this year would be a C6. I do not know if it has overdrive. I just need a way to confirm that is what it is.
As far as the headers, I am going with new exhaust anyways so it doesn't matter whether it is a direct fit.
I would definitely install new lifters on a new camshaft. You might be able to reuse the pushrods but I’m not sure.
What is on the gear indicator? Does drive have a circle around it or not? Is it D or (D). I’m fairly certain that trans code T is the AOD or Automatic OverDrive.
Trans code T is AOD. Since this is a flat tappet motor you will need a cam and lifter set if doing the cam, but those only come in at around $200 most of the time. That should not require pushrods or anything else and no the computer doesnt need to be reflashed, and that is a good thing because it can't be.
FWIW, I am swapping a 351 into my f150, got the headman shorties, they seem ok so far, but really have not had a chance to run them much. One thing I did notice and was not impressed by, was the bolt holes really did not line up very well, and I had to elongate the end holes to make them fit. Other than that, they seem fairly good and they fit in the now much smaller space.
5.0 fox shorty headers fit my 2x4 and actually have a decent size outlet, the direct fit uses the comical stock Y pipe. I had these before I went to Hooker LTs on my '88. YES, you have to change the Y pipe, but it is trash anyway.
Stock camshaft is garbage as stated, anything is better than stock. Look for the basic old 'torque/RV style' and the mentioned Comp cams 31-255-5 is similar.
E7 heads are crap. GT40Ps are decent but you needed specific headers when I used them forever ago plus they are all worn out now anyway. I have seen offshore made aluminum heads, no experience. BUT, I would put no time, nor effort into fixing E7s with a machinist. Here is about $50/hole plus parts, so if you do the math you can see the cost on them.
Hope it helps! I have tried and used damned near everything on my '88.
