headers vs manifolds
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 677
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From: High Point NC
headers vs manifolds
so i know the headers vs manifolds argument is about as old as general motors rust problems. but i wanted to get a 1st hand point of veiw on this. il be doing a 390 swap in my 76 and it has headers (rusted out) and im wondering if its worth it to go back with them? i know that headers dont make a signifigant increase in HP unless you have scavaging headers. but i also know the manifolds produce more torqe becouse of back preshure, therefore if it came to that point id say manifolds???
so to the second point....
which is worse about blowing gaskets? manifolds or headers ive heard that you can run headers without but its a firm bileif of mine to run gaskets itherway
and lastly bolts vs studs?? would studs be less likely to couse problems getting the manifolds off after a long period ??
so to the second point....
which is worse about blowing gaskets? manifolds or headers ive heard that you can run headers without but its a firm bileif of mine to run gaskets itherway
and lastly bolts vs studs?? would studs be less likely to couse problems getting the manifolds off after a long period ??
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 618
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From: central oregon
both of my trucks had headers on them when i got them (78 bronco,1972 f-250 4x4). now that i have rebuilt the 1972 f-250 an now I'm working on the bronco I have eliminated the headers on both trucks cause I was tired of leaking exhaust . on the 72 i had to remove the header to change the starter . both engines are stock except for edelbrock intakes an carbs . the 72 runs like a rape ape down the road with manifolds. so I vote for manifolds thats my two cents !
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 156
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From: Carmichael, ca
Comparing headers vs cast iron exhaust manifolds, basically depends on what you plan on doing with the engine. Since an engine is an air pump, to really take advantage of headers requires the other parts of the engine to compliment them, ie carb, intake, heads, cam & exhaust system. If your engine is basically stock, go with the OEM cast iron exhaust. If you are going to hot rod the engine, headers are the way to go.
As far as problems with leaking header gaskets, the main problem is with cheaper headers the mating flange to the heads are too thin and or not rigid enough. I installed a set of L&L long tube headers on my stroked 460. The mating flange is one solid piece of 5/8 thick steel. In addition, I used copper gaskets with orange high temp RTV. No problems with leaks.
Hope this helps.
As far as problems with leaking header gaskets, the main problem is with cheaper headers the mating flange to the heads are too thin and or not rigid enough. I installed a set of L&L long tube headers on my stroked 460. The mating flange is one solid piece of 5/8 thick steel. In addition, I used copper gaskets with orange high temp RTV. No problems with leaks.
Hope this helps.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 473
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From: SW Florida
It's pretty basic nowadays. Stock manifolds are very reliable, will hardly ever leak and will run OK. Headers will run a little better but will inevitably have some kinds of leaks. Header designs are MUCH better now though (copper gaskets and flanged socket collectors, thick flanges, stainless or ceramic coated, etc.), but also huge cost differences.
You can still find the 99 dollar headers but you'll usually wind up hating them, if you spend the money for a good set you'll wind up being a lot happier.
As for the bolts vs. studs, the expansion/contraction of exhaust means the fasteners will loosen over time. I'm doing a truck right now and I'm trying out some Stage 8s with the retaining clip. Seems like they should be pretty reliable but time will tell.
You can still find the 99 dollar headers but you'll usually wind up hating them, if you spend the money for a good set you'll wind up being a lot happier.
As for the bolts vs. studs, the expansion/contraction of exhaust means the fasteners will loosen over time. I'm doing a truck right now and I'm trying out some Stage 8s with the retaining clip. Seems like they should be pretty reliable but time will tell.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 677
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From: High Point NC
thanks guys good stuff here im building this 390 as if it came from ford dont have any big plans for it other than a good cleaning and inspection + paint i will be ditching the duraspark bull*&^% in my truck and running the points dizzy thats already in the 390 with a crane cams points eliminator kit. my dad has this same set up in his 73 f250 with a 2 bbl and its VERRY impresive how much power its makeing. his stock 390 2bbl will out run my 360 4bbl ( i know there are alot of things wrong with my engine its why im doing the swap)
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
'had manifolds and went to headers and 2.5 inch dual exhaust. It REALLY woke up the 390FE which already had an Eddy 1406 carb and 2105 intake. Before installing the Hedmans, I made sure the flanges were dead flat and the bolts (use anti-seize!) were torqued evenly. I periodically tightened the header bolts until the gaskets achieved their final crush - No leaks.
Last edited by HIO Silver; Jan 15, 2011 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Typos!!
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Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
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From: Raphine, Virginia
On a performance build I'd go with good headers, ceramic coated inside and out to take advantage of the other parts. On a stock engine, even with a couple mild upgrades, I can't see spending the money for good headers. If you run cheap ones, they're more of a hassle to me than they're worth. But it's a personal thing and opinions vary. In reality, torque means more than horsepower for 90% of normal driving. But then again, I like Duraspark ignition.
Edit: Stage 8's do work well, have not had any loosen.
Edit: Stage 8's do work well, have not had any loosen.
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Senior User
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From: Sandy Level
So you are saying if you wrap your headers change the tape every few years?
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Raphine, Virginia
No, I don't believe that would make any diff. I used to run VW's, dune buggy and Baja, and found it just made them rust faster. Of course with them, moisture was more of a problem being exposed. Just a year would rust out a set of headers. Could get two or three years without wrapping.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Sandy Level
No, I don't believe that would make any diff. I used to run VW's, dune buggy and Baja, and found it just made them rust faster. Of course with them, moisture was more of a problem being exposed. Just a year would rust out a set of headers. Could get two or three years without wrapping.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Raphine, Virginia
Someone on here should have experience with it on trucks. Might ask that in the exhaust forum. Usually when I have a bad experience with something, I just don't use it again. I think some of the Explorers came with a covered factory header. I remember seeing them when I was researching a V8 Ranger build.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
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From: Axtell, TX
I say headers, just because it's an FE. The Fe had no problems getting the air, just couldnt get rid of it. In the Fe section most of the guys there will tell you that headers is one of the first things to do on the FE. I also have header wrap on mine. Haven't driven it all that long with them on though. It is a lot cooler under the hood. And since the starter is so close it keeps them from burning through the wires. No cons, yet.
There are also the 406/427 hi-po cast iron headers. They would probly be the best of both worlds, no leaks and good performance. Dont know how many of these are around though.
Sleepy
There are also the 406/427 hi-po cast iron headers. They would probly be the best of both worlds, no leaks and good performance. Dont know how many of these are around though.
Sleepy